The Town of Sakai: From the Old Sakai Lighthouse to Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko, and by Hankai Tramway to Hamadera Park

From Sakai Station on the Nankai Main Line, walk to the Old Sakai Lighthouse standing at the tip of the Old Sakai Port, and stroll through the town of Sakai visiting Myokoku-ji Temple, known for its giant cycad; Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko, which conveys the legacy of Sen no Rikyu and Yosano Akiko; and Nanshu-ji Temple, a Zen temple associated with Sen no Rikyu. Finally, ride the Hankai Tramway to Hamadera Park, which spreads out right in front of the terminal stop, Hamadera-ekimae. This course traces the footsteps of the people who lived in the town of Sakai on foot and by streetcar.

History and Regional Appeal

The town of Sakai was once surrounded by moats. From the Sakai Moated City Site on its inner grounds, trade ceramics and tea utensils have been excavated. This town produced Sen no Rikyu, who perfected chanoyu (the Japanese tea ceremony), and Yosano Akiko, a poet who broke new ground in modern Japanese literature.

The temples of the town preserve the footsteps of Sakai's people. Myokoku-ji Temple, a head temple (honzan) of the Nichiren sect, was founded in 1562 by Aburaya Jogon, a wealthy merchant of Sakai. Nanshu-ji Temple is a Zen temple founded in 1557 by the Sengoku warlord Miyoshi Nagayoshi; it has deep connections with Sakai's tea masters, and Sen no Rikyu and Takeno Joo are said to have practiced here. In 1877, a Western-style wooden lighthouse was built at the Old Sakai Port. Most of its construction and other costs were covered by donations from the people of Sakai.

The area of Hamadera in the south of the town was once called "Takashi-no-Hama Beach," a scenic spot of white sand and green pines celebrated in anthologies such as the Man'yoshu and the Kokin Wakashu. Opened in 1873, Hamadera Park is one of the oldest parks in Japan.

Major Highlights

• ​Old Sakai Lighthouse​​: Built in 1877, this lighthouse stands at the tip of the Old Sakai Port. It is one of the oldest Western-style wooden lighthouses in Japan and is designated as a National Historic Site. The white, hexagonal wooden tower illuminated Osaka Bay for about a century before its light was extinguished in 1968. Because the interior is usually closed to the public, view it from the outside.
• ​Myokoku-ji Temple​​: It is also called "Sotetsu-dera" (Cycad Temple) after the large cycad on its grounds. The giant cycad, a National Natural Monument, is said to be 1,100 years old. A legend remains that when Oda Nobunaga relocated it to Azuchi Castle, it wept every night saying "let's return to Sakai," so he returned it to Myokoku-ji Temple. The karesansui (dry landscape) garden surrounding the giant cycad is a designated Place of Scenic Beauty of Sakai City. The temple is also known for Tokugawa Ieyasu's stay here during the Honno-ji Incident, and a monument to the Sakai Incident of 1868 stands within its precinct.
• ​Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko​​: A facility that communicates the history and culture of Sakai through the lives and personalities of Sen no Rikyu and Yosano Akiko. The Sen no Rikyu Chanoyu Museum on the first floor introduces Rikyu and the people involved with the town of Sakai, while the Yosano Akiko Memorial Museum on the second floor displays a near full-scale reproduction of Surugaya, Akiko's birthplace. At the Ryurei-style tea ceremony room, you can sit on a chair and enjoy matcha green tea along with Sakai's traditional sweets.
• ​Nanshu-ji Temple​​: A temple belonging to the Daitoku-ji branch of the Rinzai Zen sect. The karesansui dry landscape garden in the southern courtyard of the hojo (abbot's quarters) is a National Place of Scenic Beauty, handed down as the work of Furuta Oribe. The main hall (Butsuden), the Sanmon gate (Kanromon Gate), and the Karamon gate are National Important Cultural Properties. There are also the Jisso-an Teahouse favored by Rikyu, memorial towers for Takeno Joo and Sen no Rikyu, and a grave said to be that of Tokugawa Ieyasu on the grounds.
• ​Hamadera Park​​: The pines in the park have been selected as one of the "100 Best Pines of Japan to be Handed Down to the 21st Century." In the rose garden, roses bloom from early May to early June in spring, and from early October to early November in autumn. In the Traffic Park, car Mo 121 of the Hankai Tramway is preserved and displayed.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The recommended duration is about 6 hours. Walk about 1 kilometer west from Sakai Station on the Nankai Main Line and start from the Old Sakai Lighthouse at the tip of the Old Sakai Port.

After viewing the lighthouse from outside, head to Myokoku-ji Temple, located about 2 kilometers to the east. From Myokokuji-mae stop on the Hankai Line, it is about a 5-minute walk. Sakai Denshokan is located about 400 meters northwest of Myokoku-ji Temple, making it a good spot for a detour.

From Myokoku-ji Temple to Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko, about 1.2 kilometers to the west-southwest, you can either walk or take the Hankai Tramway to Shukuin. Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko is about a 1-minute walk from Shukuin, and the Sen no Rikyu Residence Site is located right across the street. It is also nice to check out Sakai's attractions in the tourist information display room or take a break with a tea ceremony experience.

Walking about 780 meters south from Sakai Plaza of Rikyu and Akiko brings you to Nanshu-ji Temple. After your visit, take the Hankai Tramway from Goryomae stop on the Hankai Line, about a 5-minute walk away, toward Hamadera-ekimae, the terminal stop about 4 kilometers to the southwest. The Hankai Tramway is the only streetcar in Osaka. Hamadera Park spreads out right in front of Hamadera-ekimae. For your return trip, you can also board from Hamaderakoen Station on the Nankai Main Line in front of the park.

Summary of the Experience

A wooden lighthouse built through townspeople's donations, a giant cycad at a temple built by a wealthy merchant, a museum showcasing Rikyu and Akiko, and the garden of a Zen temple connected with Rikyu. After walking the town of Sakai and tracing the footsteps of those who lived here, ride the retro streetcar and relax in the pine groves of Hamadera Park.