Heijo Palace Site and Sahoji Road: From Saidai-ji Temple to the Daigokuden, Hokke-ji Temple, Kairyuo-ji Temple, and Miyaato Garden

This walking course starts by visiting Saidai-ji Temple from Yamato-Saidaiji Station, heads east to see the First Daigokuden (Audience Hall) and the East Palace Garden in Nara Palace Site Historical Park, visits Hokke-ji Temple and Kairyuo-ji Temple along Sahoji Road, and finishes by heading south to the Heijo-kyo Sakyo Sanjo Nibo Miyaato Garden, where an excavated Nara-period garden pond remains.

History and Regional Charm

Heijo-kyo was established in 710 when Empress Genmei moved the capital from Fujiwara-kyo. At its center was Heijo Palace, which gathered the Daigokuden, Chodoin, the Dairi (emperor's residential quarters), government offices, and gardens. Centering on Heijo Palace, this course walks from west to east.

Saidai-ji Temple stands on the west side of the palace. Built at the vow of Empress Shotoku, it formed a pair with Todai-ji Temple, which was commissioned by her father, Emperor Shomu, to the east of the imperial palace. Directly adjacent to the east of the palace was the residence of Empress Komyo. She inherited the residence of her father, Fujiwara no Fuhito, made it the empress's residence, and later converted it into a temple. This is Hokke-ji Temple. Kairyuo-ji Temple was created by refurbishing a temple that stood in the northeast corner of the same residence.

Today's Ichijo-dori Street, running east from Heijo Palace toward Tegaimon Gate of Todai-ji Temple, was once the Ichijo Minami Oji avenue of Heijo-kyo. This area, where the estates and villas of high-ranking aristocrats spread during the Nara period, is called Sahoji Road.

When the capital moved to Nagaoka-kyo, Heijo-kyo turned into agricultural fields. From the Meiji to Taisho periods, local residents including Tanada Kajuro and Mizobe Bunshiro formed a preservation society. In 1959 (Showa 34), continuous excavation surveys by the Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties began. In 1975 (Showa 50), the Miyaato Garden was discovered during an excavation survey for the site of the Nara Post Office.

Key Highlights

• ​Saidai-ji Temple​​: The head temple of the Shingon Risshu sect. Through construction that continued until 780, more than 110 buildings were erected on grounds of approximately 48 hectares. The massive stone foundation platform in front of the main hall is the site of the East Pagoda. In the Shiou-do Hall, observe the malevolent demons (jaki) trampled under the feet of the Four Heavenly Kings statues; the demons are originals dating back to the temple's founding.
• ​Nara Palace Site Historical Park​​: The First Daigokuden is the largest building in Heijo Palace, measuring 44 meters wide and 27 meters in roof height; its reconstruction was completed in 2010. In the Excavation Site Exhibition Hall, you can view the excavated remains just as they were found. The eastern area contains the base platform of the Second Daigokuden and the East Palace Garden featuring an intricately curved pond.
• ​Hokke-ji Temple​​: A nunnery established by Empress Komyo as the head nunnery of all the provincial nunneries (Sokokubun-niji), and one of the Yamato Sanmonzeki. The current main hall is an Important Cultural Property rebuilt by Toyotomi Hideyori during the Keicho era. The principal image, a National Treasure standing statue of the Eleven-Headed Kannon Bosatsu, is usually closed to the public and specially unveiled three times a year in spring, early summer, and autumn. A bathhouse called "Karafuro," where Empress Komyo is said to have washed away the impurities of the people, also stands on the grounds.
• ​Kairyuo-ji Temple​​: Passing through the front gate leads to an approach flanked by earthen walls (tsuijibei). In the Saikondo (West Golden Hall), a National Treasure miniature five-story pagoda standing 4.01 meters high has been enshrined since the temple's founding. It is highly valued as a pagoda that conveys the architectural style of Nara-period five-story pagodas.
• ​Heijo-kyo Sakyo Sanjo Nibo Miyaato Garden​​: A garden thought to have been created around 750 in the mid-Nara period, designated as a Special Historic Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty of Japan. The S-shaped garden pond lined with cobblestones is displayed as the authentic excavated site. Viewing the pond from the reconstructed building, Mt. Kasuga and Mt. Mikasa can be seen beyond it.

Recommended Route and Time Required

The estimated time required is about 6 hours. From Kyoto, it takes about 40 minutes to Yamato-Saidaiji Station by Kintetsu Express, and about 30 minutes from Osaka-Namba by Rapid Express. Saidai-ji Temple is about a 3-minute walk from the South Exit.

Nara Palace Site Historical Park is about 1.5 kilometers east of Saidai-ji Temple. Because the park is vast, measuring 1.3 kilometers east-west and 1 kilometer north-south, allow 2 to 3 hours just within the park. Walking smoothly from west to east is best done by proceeding from the First Daigokuden to the Excavation Site Exhibition Hall, then toward the East Palace Garden. Suzakumon Gate to the south is a detour, so decide whether to extend your walk there based on your time. Rental bicycles are also recommended for getting around the park.

Hokke-ji Temple is located to the east of the park. About 120 meters east of Hokke-ji Temple is Kairyuo-ji Temple. If you have time, you can also extend your walk about 680 meters east to Futai-ji Temple. Walking about 1 kilometer south from Kairyuo-ji Temple brings you to the Miyaato Garden. Note that the Excavation Site Exhibition Hall, the East Palace Garden, and the Miyaato Garden each have regular closing days, so please check them before visiting.

For the return trip, take a Nara Kotsu Bus from the "Miyaato Teien" bus stop to either Shin-Omiya Station or Kintetsu-Nara Station.

Experience Summary

Large reconstructed buildings at the center of the ancient capital and ponds preserved just as they were excavated—these are linked by quiet temples associated with Empress Komyo. Walking this route for a day lets you feel with your own feet the journey through which Heijo-kyo gradually emerged from beneath the farm fields. Conclude your tour by taking in the overlapping view of the pond and the eastern mountain ridge from the reconstructed building in the Miyaato Garden.