Furuichi Kofun Group: From National Treasure Fujii-dera Temple to Domyo-ji Temple and Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound

Starting from Fujiidera Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line, visit Fujii-dera Temple, whose principal image is a National Treasure Thousand-Armed Kannon. Then proceed to Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine and Domyo-ji Temple, both associated with Sugawara no Michizane; Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound at the center of the World Heritage Furuichi Kofun Group; and Konda Hachimangu Shrine, which has long overseen rituals for the burial mound. Traveling by train and on foot, this course traces the footprints of the ancient people who built the burial mounds and the enduring faith that followed.

History and Local Charm

The Furuichi Kofun Group is a cluster of burial mounds found within a radius of 2 kilometers across Habikino City and Fujiidera City. The Furuichi area contains more than 130 mounds, including Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound, the second longest in Japan. In 2019, 26 burial mounds in the Furuichi area were inscribed as a World Heritage site alongside 23 mounds in Sakai City under the name "Mozu-Furuichi Kofun Group."

This area was ruled by the Haji clan, who were involved in constructing burial mounds, producing haniwa (terracotta clay figures), and conducting imperial funeral ceremonies. Domyo-ji Temple was originally Haji-dera Temple, the clan temple of the Haji clan. Later, Kakujuni, a descendant of the Haji clan and aunt of Sugawara no Michizane, entered this temple, and Michizane visited frequently. After Michizane passed away, a wooden statue of him left behind was enshrined on the northern hill, and Haji-dera Temple was renamed Domyo-ji Temple. This history connects directly to today's Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine and Domyo-ji Temple.

Ancient sites of worship also remain near the burial mounds. Konda Hachimangu Shrine is said to be the oldest Hachimangu shrine in Japan, reportedly founded in the late 6th century, and has overseen rituals for Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound, which is regarded as the mausoleum of Emperor Ojin. The name of Fujiidera City originates from Fujii-dera Temple.

Key Highlights

• ​Fujii-dera Temple​​: The fifth temple along the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. The principal image, a National Treasure seated statue of the Eleven-Faced Thousand-Armed Thousand-Eyed Kannon Bodhisattva, is considered the only Tenpyo-era Buddhist statue in Osaka Prefecture; in addition to the two arms held in prayer, 1,041 arms extend from its back. As a hidden Buddha, its doors are opened on the 18th of every month. The western Shikyakumon (four-legged gate) built by Toyotomi Hideyori is a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan, and around late April, the wisteria trellises on the grounds turn purple.
• ​Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine​​: A shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the deity of learning. In the plum grove behind the main hall, about 800 plum trees of roughly 80 varieties are planted, and a plum festival is held every year from February to March. On the grounds stands a replica of a "shura" (a large wooden sledge used for transporting massive stones), which was excavated from the moat of the nearby Mitsuzuka Kofun Burial Mound. Six National Treasures handed down as relics of Michizane are put on public display only on special occasions.
• ​Domyo-ji Temple​​: A nunnery of the Shingon Buddhism Omuro sect linked to Sugawara no Michizane. The principal image, a National Treasure statue of the Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva, is said to have been carved by Michizane himself from a single piece of Japanese cypress (hinoki). The statue is unveiled on the 18th and 25th of every month. The temple is also known as the birthplace of Domyoji-ko flour, which is used in Kansai-style sakura mochi.
• ​Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound​​: A massive keyhole-shaped burial mound (zenpokoenfun) measuring 425 meters in length—the second longest in Japan—and boasting a mound volume of roughly 1.43 million cubic meters, the largest in the country. Constructed in the early 5th century, it is regarded as the mausoleum of Emperor Ojin. A torii gate stands at the northern prayer area, and the view of the burial mound from here has been selected as one of Osaka Prefecture's "View Spots Osaka."
• ​Konda Hachimangu Shrine​​: A shrine dedicated primarily to Emperor Ojin, resting near the round rear section of the burial mound. Its treasure hall houses a National Treasure mikoshi (portable shrine) said to have been donated by Minamoto no Yoritomo, as well as National Treasure gilt-bronze openwork saddle hardware excavated from the neighboring Kondamaruyama Kofun Burial Mound. On the night of the autumn festival, the Owatari procession, in which the portable shrine journeys toward the imperial tomb, is still carried out today.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 6 hours. Begin at Fujii-dera Temple, located about a 5-minute walk south of Fujiidera Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line. Visiting on the 18th of the month allows you to see the opened doors of the principal images at both Fujii-dera Temple and Domyo-ji Temple.

From Fujii-dera Temple, it is about 1.9 kilometers east to Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine. Return to Fujiidera Station, take the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line, and get off at Domyoji Station; Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine is about a 3-minute walk away. Domyo-ji Temple is situated about 130 meters west of the Tenmangu shrine, making it convenient to visit together.

Proceeding about 910 meters southwest from Domyo-ji Temple brings you to Kondagobyoyama Kofun Burial Mound. After paying respects at the northern prayer area, walk around the mound toward Konda Hachimangu Shrine on the side of the round rear section. Walking one-way from the northern prayer area to the shrine takes about 20 minutes. From the shrine, it is about a 10-minute walk to Furuichi Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line.

Summary of the Experience

A Tenpyo-era Kannon extending a thousand hands, the temple of the Haji clan who constructed ancient mounds, Michizane's Tenmangu shrine, and Japan's second-largest burial mound blanketed in forest. Spend a day walking through the town of Furuichi, tracing history from the era when burial mounds were built to the lasting devotion of the people who maintained their worship.