At the Foot of Mt. Tennozan: Asahi Group Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art and Mt. Tennozan

Starting on foot from in front of JR Yamazaki Station in Oyamazaki Town, this course visits Myoki-an Temple, home to the National Treasure teahouse "Tai-an Teahouse," and Rikyu Hachimangu Shrine, known for its history of oil. After enjoying masterworks and the view of three converging rivers at the Asahi Group Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art at the foot of Mt. Tennozan, the route passes Hoshaku-ji Temple and climbs to the summit of Mt. Tennozan, the setting of the Battle of Yamazaki.

History and Regional Charm

Mt. Tennozan faces Mt. Otokoyama across the Yodo River, forming a terrain like a gateway leading from the Osaka Plain into the Kyoto Basin. At its foot, Oyamazaki is the place where three rivers—the Kizu River, Uji River, and Katsura River—converge.

Rikyu Hachimangu Shrine at the foot of the mountain is said to have begun during the Jogan era in the early Heian period, when Gyokyo enshrined the deity of Usa Hachiman here. In the Kamakura period, an oil guild (aburaza) was formed, and by the Muromachi period, Oyamazaki oil was sold under a monopoly ranging from northern Kyushu in the west to Mino in the east, allowing Oyamazaki to flourish as an autonomous town.

In Tensho 10 (1582), Akechi Mitsuhide, who had struck down Oda Nobunaga at Honno-ji Temple, faced off in this Yamazaki area against Hashiba Hideyoshi, who had rushed back from the Chugoku region. This was the Battle of Yamazaki. Hideyoshi set up his headquarters at Hoshaku-ji Temple, and upon winning the battle, immediately built Yamazaki Castle on the summit of Mt. Tennozan. It was also around this time that he summoned Sen no Rikyu to reside here. The phrase "Tennozan," used to describe a crucial turning point that decides the outcome of a contest, is said to originate from this battle.

Key Highlights

• ​Myoki-an Temple​​: Contains the National Treasure teahouse "Tai-an Teahouse," said to be the only surviving teahouse attributed to Sen no Rikyu. Measuring just two tatami mats in size, features like the mud-plastered alcove (murodoko) and the sloping ceiling (kakekomi-tenjo) create a surprising sense of space despite the two-mat layout.
• ​Rikyu Hachimangu Shrine​​: To the right of the torii gate stands a statue of a Shinto priest offering a container of perilla oil. The tool for pressing oil from perilla seeds, devised by a priest of this shrine, is said to mark the beginning of oil manufacturing in Japan. To the left of the main hall (honden), a well named "Iwashimizu" also remains.
• ​Asahi Group Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art​​: A museum that restored a British-style villa built from the Taisho to the Showa period by businessman Kaga Shotaro to its original appearance. From the second-floor terrace, which serves as a cafe, you can look down on the view where the three rivers flow. In the underground wing designed by Ando Tadao, Claude Monet's Water Lilies series is on permanent display.
• ​Hoshaku-ji Temple and Mt. Tennozan​​: Hoshaku-ji Temple, also called "Takara-dera," features the "Ichiya-no-to" three-story pagoda, which legend says Hideyoshi built in a single night, and the "Shusse-ishi" (success stone), said to bring career advancement if sat upon. Climbing from the temple to the summit of Mt. Tennozan at an elevation of 270.4 meters, you will find the ruins of the main keep base (tenshudai), a well, and earthworks of Yamazaki Castle.

Recommended Route and Required Time

The estimated time required is about 5 hours, including temple visits and the round trip to the summit. Visiting Myoki-an Temple requires an advance reservation by return postcard at least one month prior to the desired date, and visitors of high school age or younger are not admitted. It is recommended to apply early once your visit date is decided. A full-scale replica of Tai-an Teahouse is permanently on display at the nearby Oyamazaki Town Historical Museum.

Myoki-an Temple is right outside JR Yamazaki Station, and Rikyu Hachimangu Shrine is also right in front of the station; the two are only about 100 meters apart. Walking a little over 400 meters north from Rikyu Hachimangu Shrine brings you to the entrance of the Asahi Group Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art. From the front of the tunnel at the garden entrance to the main building is a gentle uphill walk of about 300 meters. Right next to the museum is Hoshaku-ji Temple, reached by climbing a steep slope to the grounds.

Hoshaku-ji Temple serves as the trailhead for Mt. Tennozan. From the station to the summit takes about 60 minutes on foot, and it is about 15 minutes to the Hoshaku-ji Temple trailhead. Along the mountain path, you will come across Hatatatematsu Observation Deck, Graves of the Seventeen Martyrs, and Tamateyori-matsurikitaru Sakatoke-jinja Shrine. The hiking course is named "Hideyoshi-no-Michi Path," and ceramic picture boards depicting Hideyoshi's story of unifying the nation are placed at six spots. As there are no restrooms along the trail, it is best to use the facilities at places like Hoshaku-ji Temple beforehand. At the summit, you can also unpack and enjoy a boxed lunch.

Experience Summary

From Rikyu's two-mat teahouse and the shrine of an autonomous town that prospered through oil, to the villa museum looking down on three rivers, Hideyoshi's headquarters temple, and the summit ruins of Yamazaki Castle. This is a one-day journey tracing the history of Oyamazaki on foot from the base to the summit of the mountain said to have given rise to the phrase "Tennozan," meaning a decisive turning point.