Mibu and the Shimabara Geisha District of the Shinsengumi

This half-day itinerary takes you through Mibu, where the Shinsengumi established its headquarters, visiting Mibu-dera Temple, the Yagi Family Residence, and the Former Maekawa Residence, before walking south to Shimabara to explore Shimabara Omon Gate and the Sumiya Motenashi Cultural Art Museum.

History and Local Charm

In the spring of Bunkyu 3 (1863), masterless samurai (roshi) who traveled to Kyoto to guard the 14th Shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, on his visit to the capital sought lodgings in Mibu Village—a location situated on the outskirts of Kyoto yet close to Nijo Castle. Although these samurai were soon ordered to return to Edo, 13 men who had taken lodging at the Yagi residence, including Serizawa Kamo, Kondo Isami, Hijikata Toshizo, and Okita Soji, remained in Kyoto. According to the Yagi family's account, on March 16 of that same year, a new nameplate was hung on the gatepost of the Yagi residence, marking the birth of the Shinsengumi here. The members subsequently also took lodging at residences such as that of the Maekawa family, using the grounds of Mibu-dera Temple as a training ground for martial arts and artillery practice. It was on March 10 in Genji 2 (1865) that the Shinsengumi relocated its headquarters to Nishi Hongwanji Temple. Shimabara, located to the south of Mibu, was an officially licensed entertainment district relocated to its present site from Rokujo-Misujimachi in Kan'ei 18 (1641). It flourished as a district of banquets accompanied by song and dance, and was also an active center for waka and haikai poetry. In the closing days of the Tokugawa shogunate (Bakumatsu), the ageya (banquet pavilion) Sumiya in Shimabara served as a meeting place for both imperial loyalists and shogunate supporters, and it is said that the Shinsengumi also frequented it.

Key Highlights

• ​Mibu-dera Temple​​: A temple of the Risshu sect founded in Shoryaku 2 (991). At Mibuzuka Mound, situated on an island in the pond on the east side of the grounds, stand a bronze bust and hair tomb of Kondo Isami, the graves of Serizawa Kamo and Hirayama Goro, who were assassinated at the Yagi residence, and a bust of Hijikata Toshizo, which was added in 2023. The temple has also passed down Mibu Kyogen, a form of pantomime theatricals performed without spoken lines to the musical accompaniment of gongs, drums, and flutes.
• ​Yagi Family Residence​​: The estate of the Yagi family, regarded as the birthplace of the Shinsengumi. Its nagayamon (row-house gate) from Bunka 1 (1804) retains much of its historic appearance. In the inner parlor where Serizawa Kamo and others were cut down on September 18 of Bunkyu 3, some sword cut marks still remain today. Some tour options include a guided tour, matcha green tea, and Tonsho-mochi, a rice cake kneaded with chopped Mibuna greens.
• ​Former Maekawa Residence​​: A mansion that served as the Shinsengumi headquarters for about two years starting in Bunkyu 3. The torture of Furutaka Shuntaro, which triggered the Ikedaya Incident, took place in the east storehouse, and General Secretary Yamanami Keisuke committed seppuku in one of the rooms of this residence. When the storehouse window is opened, the Yagi residence is clearly visible through the lattice screen.
• ​Shimabara Omon Gate​​: A gate standing at the eastern entrance to Shimabara. The present gate was rebuilt in Keio 3 (1867) as a full-fledged koraimon gate, comparable to those found at shrines and temples. The willow tree in front of the gate is known by names such as the "Deguchi Willow."
• ​Sumiya Motenashi Cultural Art Museum​​: The building of the former Sumiya, an ageya in Shimabara, designated as a National Important Cultural Property as the only remaining architectural structure of an ageya. The building features guest rooms and gardens arranged in a manner similar to the shoin (drawing rooms) of temples and shrines, houses the "Red and White Plum Blossoms" folding screen by Yosa Buson, and retains numerous sword cut marks on the premises.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. Mibu-dera Temple is about a 10-minute walk from Hankyu Omiya Station or Keifuku Electric Railroad Shijo-Omiya Station. On Bojo-dori Street in front of the east gate of Mibu-dera Temple, both the Yagi Family Residence and the Former Maekawa Residence remain, allowing them to be visited together. As the Former Maekawa Residence remains a private residence today, visits are limited to the storehouse and the dirt-floored entryway (doma), and public opening days are limited. Please check the official website before visiting. Please be mindful of the residents and neighbors and observe your visit quietly. Walking about 1 kilometer south from Mibu brings you to Shimabara Omon Gate; passing through the gate and walking about 170 meters west leads to the Sumiya Motenashi Cultural Art Museum. As the days open to the public for Sumiya are limited, please check the official announcements before setting out. The interior is viewed at fixed times accompanied by a guide. On your return, it is about a 7-minute walk from Sumiya to JR Tambaguchi Station or Umekoji-Kyotonishi Station. Mibu Kyogen at Mibu-dera Temple is performed three times a year—in spring, autumn, and on Setsubun—and every year on July 16, a memorial service for the Shinsengumi members is held in commemoration of the day of the Ikedaya Incident.

Experience Summary

At the residence in Mibu where the Shinsengumi was born, encounter memories of the Bakumatsu period left in sword cuts and storehouses, then walk to the Shimabara entertainment district where troop members are said to have visited. Savor both the life of the headquarters and the hospitality of a town of banquets and arts on this half-day journey.