Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street

In short

Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street is a shopping street stretching approximately 780 meters along the old Nakasendo highway. Serving as the approach to Togenuki Jizoson Kogan-ji Temple, it is known as "Grandma's Harajuku." Along the street are two Jizo statues at Kogan-ji Temple and Shinsho-ji Temple, as well as the Sugamo Koshinzuka.

• ​Shinsho-ji Temple's Edo Roku Jizo​​: At Shinsho-ji Temple at the entrance of the shopping street, a seated Jizo statue measuring 2.68 meters tall wears a woven hat and holds a staff.
• ​Ennichi Fairs on Days Ending in Four​​: On festival days on the 4th, 14th, and 24th of every month, stalls line the entire street.
• ​Sugamo Koshinzuka​​: During the Edo period, this spot flourished as a "tateba," a resting place for travelers along the Nakasendo highway.

History and Highlights

Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street stretches approximately 780 meters along the old Nakasendo highway route. Lined with around 200 shops, it serves as the approach leading up to Togenuki Jizoson Kogan-ji Temple. Sugamo was once an entryway to the Nakasendo highway. It is said that the area around Shinsho-ji Temple at the entrance of the street bustled as a transportation hub. The Sugamo Koshinzuka located on the street flourished during the Edo period as a "tateba" (traveler rest stop) along the Nakasendo highway. This place was also close to the Itabashi post town on the Nakasendo.

Kogan-ji Temple relocated to Sugamo in 1891 (Meiji 24). Priest Kokai Doyu, who became the head priest in 1897 (Meiji 30), collaborated with street vendors to establish three monthly temple fairs. Later, the Yamanote Line and the streetcar line now known as the Toden opened, making it easier for people to visit and pray.

In the 1980s, the number of elderly worshippers increased year after year, giving rise to the nickname "Grandma's Harajuku." In front of the temple gates, local specialties unique to Sugamo—such as "shio daifuku" (salted sweet bean rice cakes), "Jizo senbei" (rice crackers), and "red underwear"—became well-established.

Tips for Viewing and Experiencing

• ​Shinsho-ji Temple's Edo Roku Jizo​​: Shinsho-ji Temple belongs to the Buzan School of Shingon Buddhism. To the left within the temple grounds sits a large Jizo statue measuring 2.68 meters in height, wearing a woven hat and holding a staff. It is one of the Edo Roku Jizo (Six Jizo of Edo), which were placed at the entrances of six Edo highways to watch over traveler safety, and was the fourth of the six statues made. It was completed in 1714 (Shotoku 4).
• ​Ennichi Fairs on Days Ending in Four​​: The 4th, 14th, and 24th of each month are the festival days of Kogan-ji Temple. On these days, stalls line the entirety of Sugamo Jizo-dori. On the 24th of January, May, and September, Kogan-ji Temple holds its annual grand festival, making the street even livelier.
• ​Sugamo Koshinzuka​​: Today, Sarutahiko Okami is also enshrined in the Koshin-do hall. Sarutahiko Okami was a deity who served as a guide in Japanese mythology, and has been revered as a god of roads and travelers. In the past, a Koshin stone monument stood here, which also functioned as a signpost for the Oji-michi path leading to Asukayama and Oji.

Tips for Walking

From the Front Exit of JR Sugamo Station, it is about 270 meters to the shopping street. From Exit A3 of the Toei Mita Line's Sugamo Station, it is about 100 meters. Shinsho-ji Temple is situated at the entrance near the station; walking about 200 meters from there brings you to the main gate of Kogan-ji Temple, which faces Jizo-dori. Walking north along Jizo-dori from Kogan-ji Temple for about 700 meters leads to Koshinzuka Stop on the Tokyo Sakura Tram (Toden Arakawa Line). Because it gets very crowded on fair days, visiting by train or bus is recommended. Rikugien Gardens is about a 15-minute walk from Sugamo Station. More details about Kogan-ji Temple are featured in the entry for Togenuki Jizoson Kogan-ji Temple.