Tennoji Nanasaka Slopes, Temple Towns, and the Site of Sanada Yukimura's Final Stand

This walking course takes you south from Tanimachi 9-chome Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, visiting Ikukunitama-jinja Shrine and following the slopes known as the Tennoji Nanasaka Slopes through districts lined with temples. You will pass Kuchinawazaka Slope, the setting of a novel by Oda Sakunosuke; Shoman-in Temple / Aizen-do Hall, renowned for match-making; Yasui-jinja Shrine, where Sanada Yukimura is said to have met his end; and finally Isshin-ji Temple, closely connected to the Siege of Osaka.

History and Regional Charm

Osaka is said to have few slopes, with the only ones being on the Uemachi Plateau extending south of Osaka Castle. Running north to south along this plateau are the "Tennoji Nanasaka Slopes": Shingonzaka, Genshojizaka, Kuchinawazaka Slope, Aizenzaka, Kiyomizuzaka, Tenjinzaka, and Ousaka. The area around Uemachisuji from Naniwa Palace to Tennoji, south of Osaka Castle, is known as "Otera Ginza" (Temple Ginza) with about 200 temples and shrines standing side by side. It is said that Toyotomi Hideyoshi tightened his control over the temples and assigned them the role of defending the castle. When Hideyoshi decided on the location to build Osaka Castle, Ikukunitama-jinja Shrine, located at the northern end of this line of slopes, was relocated to its current site.

This temple town was also the stage for the Siege of Osaka, which brought about the fall of the Toyotomi clan. According to the temple records of Isshin-ji Temple, Tokugawa Ieyasu set up his headquarters here during the Winter Campaign of the Siege of Osaka in Keicho 19 (1614). In the following year's Summer Campaign, Sanada Yukimura is said to have established his base at Chausuyama at the northern edge of Tennoji Park and fallen in battle on the grounds of Yasui-jinja Shrine. Isshin-ji Temple contains the grave of Honda Tadatomo from the Tokugawa side, who also fell in battle during the same Summer Campaign. As you walk through this town of slopes and temples, you can retrace the history of the Siege of Osaka.

Key Highlights

• ​Ikukunitama-jinja Shrine​​: Affectionately known by the nickname "Ikutama-san." The main hall features the "Ikutama-zukuri Style" with three gables on its front facade, a style said to be seen nowhere else. Within its grounds stand Joruri-jinja Shrine, which enshrines Chikamatsu Monzaemon and deceased figures of Bunraku puppet theater, as well as a monument honoring Yonezawa Hikohachi, regarded as the founder of Osaka rakugo.
• ​Kuchinawazaka Slope​​: One of the Tennoji Nanasaka Slopes. One theory about the origin of its name is that it resembles the shape of a snake (kuchinawa) when viewed from the bottom. The path transitions from stone pavement into stone steps and is well known as the setting of Oda Sakunosuke's novel Ki no Miyako (The Capital of Trees). At the top of the slope stands a literary monument engraved with a passage from the novel. In spring, weeping cherry blossoms peek out from the garden of Zenryu-ji Temple.
• ​Shoman-in Temple / Aizen-do Hall​​: A temple said to have originated as the "Seyaku-in" (medicinal dispensary) founded by Prince Shotoku when he built Shitenno-ji Temple. Enshrining Aizen Myo'o, the deity of match-making, it is warmly known as "Aizen-san." The Tahoto pagoda, rebuilt in Keicho 2 (1597) by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, is the oldest existing wooden structure in Osaka City and is designated a National Important Cultural Property. The grounds also feature the "Aizen Katsura" tree, which served as the inspiration for Kawaguchi Matsutaro's novel.
• ​Yasui-jinja Shrine​​: A shrine dedicated to Sukunahikona no Kami and Sugawara no Michizane. The grounds feature a "Statue of Lord Sanada Yukimura" and the "Monument of the Site of Sanada Yukimura's Death in Battle." Beside the monument stands the "Sanada Pine," where Yukimura is said to have spent his final moments. While historical records do not pinpoint the exact location of his death, conventional belief places it at Yasui-jinja Shrine, attracting many visitors as a place tied to Yukimura.
• ​Isshin-ji Temple​​: A Jodo-shu Buddhist temple associated with Honen Shonin. It is well known as the temple of "Okotsubutsu," where statues of Amida Buddha are crafted from the gathered cremated remains of deceased individuals every 10 years. Honda Tadatomo is said to have uttered "the thing to be warned against is alcohol" on the brink of death, and his grave is revered as a Buddha of temperance.

Recommended Route and Estimated Time

The estimated time required is about 3 hours. It is roughly a 3-minute walk from Tanimachi 9-chome Station to Ikukunitama-jinja Shrine. After paying your respects, head south past the top of Genshojizaka, where Reien-ji and Ginzan-ji Temples stand, to reach Kuchinawazaka Slope in about 700 meters. After viewing the literary monument at the top, descend the stone steps and enjoy the view looking up from the bottom of the slope.

From Kuchinawazaka Slope, walk southeast for about 240 meters to reach Shoman-in Temple / Aizen-do Hall. Just to the west, climb the somewhat steep stone steps next to Aizenzaka to find Oe-jinja Shrine. From Shoman-in Temple / Aizen-do Hall, head southwest, passing by the stone-paved Kiyomizuzaka that runs between Kiyomizu-dera Temple and Osaka Seiko Gakuin, toward Yasui-jinja Shrine, which stands just above Tenjinzaka. The straight-line distance is about 360 meters. In old Tennoji, famous natural springs welled up and were known as the Tennoji Shichimeisui (Seven Famous Springs of Tennoji), and the "Kanshizume Well" at Yasui-jinja Shrine is one of them.

From Yasui-jinja Shrine, Isshin-ji Temple, the final stop, is about 190 meters to the south. Crossing Tennoji Park from Isshin-ji Temple brings you right to Tennoji Station. As there are many slopes and stone steps, please wear comfortable walking shoes. If you visit around the time of the Aizen Festival (June 30 to July 2) or the Ikutama Summer Festival (July 11 and 12), you can also experience the lively festivities of the Three Great Summer Festivals of Osaka.

Summary of Experience

From the ancient Ikukunitama-jinja Shrine to the literary Kuchinawazaka Slope, the match-making Shoman-in Temple / Aizen-do Hall, Yasui-jinja Shrine where Yukimura is said to have breathed his last, and Isshin-ji Temple connected with the Siege of Osaka. Walking north to south through this verdant district of slopes and temples, you will find layers of history dating back to the Toyotomi era, surrounded by a tranquility that makes it hard to believe you are in the heart of Osaka.