Higashiosaka: From the Shiba Ryotaro Memorial Museum to Hiraoka-jinja Shrine and Ishikiri-san

This walking and Kintetsu Nara Line course takes you to the home and memorial museum of author Shiba Ryotaro, followed by visits to two ancient shrines at the foot of Mount Ikoma: Hiraoka-jinja Shrine, known as "Moto-Kasuga," and Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine, affectionately called "Ishikiri-san." Finally, you will walk down the slope of the approach lined with Showa-retro shops toward Ishikiri-san.

History and Regional Charm

Ancient shrines rest peacefully at the foot of Mount Ikoma. Both Kawachi Province's Ichinomiya (first shrine), Hiraoka-jinja Shrine, and Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine are ancient shrines whose names are recorded in the Engishiki Jinmyocho (register of shrines).

Hiraoka-jinja Shrine's primary deity, Ame-no-Koyane no Mikoto, is the ancestral deity of the Nakatomi clan, who oversaw court rituals. Because two deities from Hiraoka-jinja Shrine were enshrined at Nara's Kasuga Shrine (now Kasuga Taisha) in 768 (the second year of the Jingo-Keiun era), Hiraoka-jinja Shrine is called "Moto-Kasuga" (Original Kasuga). The area around the shrine is where the historic Higashi-Koya Kaido and Kuragarigoe-Nara Kaido intersect, and heading up the Kuragarigoe-Nara Kaido leads to Kuragari Pass crossing the Ikoma Mountains.

Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine enshrines Nigihayahi no Mikoto and his son, Umashimade no Mikoto, and has long been revered as the "god of denbo" for curing boils and swellings. Along the approach descending from Ishikiri Station to the shrine, stores selling Japanese and Chinese herbal medicines gathered during the Edo period. The approach developed significantly during the Taisho period; when the railway was constructed and Ishikiri Station opened, many visitors from throughout the Kinki region began to arrive.

In a residential area of Higashiosaka City, west of the foot of the mountains, stands the residence of author Shiba Ryotaro. Born in Osaka City in 1923, Shiba Ryotaro produced numerous works, including novels such as Ryoma ga Yuku and Saka no Ue no Kumo, as well as travel essays like Kaido o Yuku. In November 2001, a memorial museum opened adjacent to his residence.

Key Highlights

• ​Shiba Ryotaro Memorial Museum​​: An exposed concrete building designed by architect Ando Tadao. Within the three-story atrium space stands an 11-meter-high great bookcase holding approximately 20,000 volumes. From the path through the grove-like garden, you can look through the window into the study, which remains as it was, with fountain pens and colored pencils used for revisions still on the desk.
• ​Hiraoka-jinja Shrine​​: Built in 1826 (the ninth year of the Bunsei era), the main hall consists of four sanctuary buildings arranged side-by-side in a vibrant architectural style known as Hiraoka-zukuri Style. The shrine forest has been known since antiquity as "Hoki-no-Mori Forest," and in spring, approximately 280 plum trees bloom in the Hiraoka Plum Grove on the south side of the grounds.
• ​Ishikiri Sando Shopping Street and Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine​​: Along this approach stretching roughly 1 kilometer, more than 100 shops are lined up, allowing you to browse fortune-telling booths and local specialties like yomogi (mugwort) udon and yomogi dango as you walk. Beyond the approach, inside Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine, notable sights include the ohyakudo-mairi (a prayer ritual pacing back and forth between the front of the main hall and the ohyakudo stone) and the Emaden (votive tablet hall) adorned with a sword and arrow at the center of its roof.

Recommended Route and Estimated Duration

The estimated time required is about 6 hours. First, walk about 8 minutes from Yaenosato Station on the Kintetsu Nara Line to the Shiba Ryotaro Memorial Museum. Inside the museum is a self-service cafe overlooking the garden through glass, where you can take a break while gazing at the trees.

Hiraoka-jinja Shrine is located about 6 kilometers east of the museum. Return to Yaenosato Station and take the Kintetsu Nara Line to Hiraoka Station. The approach begins right outside the east exit of the station.

After visiting the shrine, take the Kintetsu Nara Line again to Ishikiri Station. As you leave the station and begin walking down the slope, stone lanterns line the path beside the tracks, and a large torii gate greets you. The approach begins past the "Welcome to Ishikiri-san" arch; descending the slope, Osaka's cityscape of buildings comes into view in the distance. Passing through the shopping street brings you into the grounds of Ishikiri Tsurugiya-jinja Shrine. After paying your respects, it is about a 10-minute walk to Shin-Ishikiri Station on the Kintetsu Keihanna Line, which marks the end of the route. As the approach is sloped, comfortable walking shoes are recommended.

February 12, the anniversary of Shiba Ryotaro's death, is known as "Nanohana-ki," during which rape blossoms are displayed around the museum and along nearby streets. On the third Sunday of December, Hiraoka-jinja Shrine holds the Shimekake Shinji Ritual (also called the Laughing Ritual), where people gather to laugh loudly and invite good fortune.

Summary of the Experience

Immerse yourself in the author's world before Shiba Ryotaro's great bookcase and study, and sense the long history of faith at two ancient shrines at the foot of Mount Ikoma. Conclude by strolling down the slope of the approach lined with nostalgic shops and fortune-tellers to Ishikiri-san. Enjoy a day immersed in literature and spiritual traditions in Higashiosaka.