Daigo-ji Temple, Sanbo-in Temple, Zuishin-in Temple, and Kaju-ji Temple in Ono
Fushimi Ward, Kyoto
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This historic temple-walking route begins at Daigo-ji Temple, known since the Heian period as a cherry blossom site called the "Flowers of Daigo," and Sanbo-in Temple, featuring a garden designed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. From there, walk north into the village of Ono to visit Zuishin-in Temple, associated with Ono no Komachi, and Kaju-ji Temple, founded by Emperor Daigo to pray for the soul of his mother.
History and Local Charm
Daigo-ji Temple is the head temple of the Daigo branch of the Shingon sect. It is said to have originated in 874 (Jogan 16) when the monk Rigen-daishi Shobo climbed Mount Kasatori, carved a statue of Kannon, and enshrined it there. With the devout patronage of three emperors—Daigo, Suzaku, and Murakami—a grand monastic complex was developed. In 1994 (Heisei 6), it was registered as a World Cultural Heritage site as one of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto." In the spring of 1598 (Keicho 3), Hideyoshi planted 700 cherry trees gathered from the Kinai region for a flower-viewing excursion, constructed the buildings and garden of Sanbo-in Temple, and held a magnificent banquet. This event is known as the "Daigo Cherry Blossom Viewing" (Daigo no Hanami).
Ono, which spreads to the north of Daigo-ji Temple, is the land where the Ono clan prospered, producing figures such as Ono no Imoko and Ono no Takamura. Zuishin-in Temple is said to stand on the former site of Ono no Komachi's residence. To the west, Kaju-ji Temple began in 900 (Shotai 3) when Emperor Daigo converted the estate of his maternal grandfather, Miyaji Yamasu, into a temple to pray for the repose of his mother, Fujiwara no Tsugiko.
Key Highlights
- Daigo-ji Temple: The five-story pagoda, completed in 951 (Tenryaku 5) and designated a National Treasure, is the oldest wooden structure in Kyoto Prefecture. Other must-see sights include the Kondo (Main Hall), a National Treasure whose relocation was planned by Hideyoshi's order, and the vermilion Bentendo Hall reflecting on the surface of the pond. To reach Kami-Daigo atop the mountain, it takes a little under an hour of steep mountain walking starting from the Nyonin-do Hall.
- Sanbo-in Temple: This temple serves as the head quarters (honbo) of Daigo-ji Temple. Its garden, whose basic design was personally drafted by Hideyoshi for the "Daigo Cherry Blossom Viewing," is designated a national Special Historic Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The Fujito-ishi Stone, revered as a "celebrated stone of the realm," is positioned in its center. The Omote-shoin (main drawing room) overlooking the entire garden and the Karamon (Chinese gate), restored to its historical appearance in 2010 (Heisei 22), are both National Treasures.
- Zuishin-in Temple: Founded in 991 (Shoryaku 2) by the high priest Ningai, this temple preserves the Fumi-zuka, a mound said to hold love letters sent to Komachi, and the Kesho Well, which Komachi is said to have used when applying makeup. In the Ono Plum Garden, approximately 200 plum trees are planted, including late-blooming light pink Hanezu plums, and the "Hanezu Odori" dance is performed on the last Sunday of March.
- Kaju-ji Temple: At the heart of the garden lies the Himuro Pond, where in the Heian period ice formed on the water was said to have been presented to the Imperial Court to divine the success of the five grains (harvest) based on its thickness. In the front garden of the Shoin (drawing room), a Kaju-ji-style Stone Lantern donated by Tokugawa Mitsukuni is enveloped by creeping juniper (haibyakushin) said to be over 750 years old.
Recommended Route and Duration
The recommended route takes roughly 6 hours as a general guide. From Daigo Station on the Subway Tozai Line, it is about a 10-minute walk to Daigo-ji Temple. Take your time viewing the temple complex of Shimo-Daigo and Sanbo-in Temple, situated about 220 meters to the west-northwest. If you climb up to Kami-Daigo, allow plenty of time and wear comfortable walking shoes. From Sanbo-in Temple, walk about 800 meters north-northwest to Zuishin-in Temple, and then another 800 meters west-northwest to Kaju-ji Temple. From Kaju-ji Temple, it is about a 6-minute walk to Ono Station on the Subway Tozai Line.
In spring, set against the temple grounds, a variety of cherry blossoms bloom in succession, including weeping cherries, Yoshino cherries, mountain cherries, and double-flowered cherries. Around late March during the Hanezu Odori, visitors can enjoy the plum blossoms of the Ono Plum Garden at Zuishin-in Temple, and in early summer, Japanese irises and water lilies on the pond at Kaju-ji Temple. In autumn, vibrant foliage colors the entire grounds of Daigo-ji Temple, and the garden of Sanbo-in Temple also harmonizes beautifully with the autumn maple leaves.
Summary of the Experience
From Daigo-ji Temple and Sanbo-in Temple, where Hideyoshi enjoyed cherry blossoms, to Zuishin-in Temple with its legends of Komachi, and Kaju-ji Temple steeped in Heian-period tales. Hideyoshi looked forward to an autumn "Daigo Autumn Foliage Excursion" after the "Daigo Cherry Blossom Viewing," but his life came to an end that summer at the age of 62. Visiting in different seasons reveals different scenery each time along this route.