Fukagawa: From Fukagawa Fudoson Temple and Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine in Monzen-nakacho to Kiyosumi Gardens and the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo

History and Local Charm

In Monzen-nakacho, Fukagawa, "Fukagawa's Hachiman-sama" and "Fukagawa's Fudo-sama" stand side by side. Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine was founded in 1627 (Kanei 4) on what was then called Eitaijima Island, its current location. The surrounding sandbars were reclaimed to develop the shrine grounds and residential land for parishioners. Its grounds are the birthplace of Edo kanjin zumo (public fundraising sumo), and its annual grand festival, the Fukagawa Hachiman Festival, is counted as one of the three major festivals of Edo.

In 1703 (Genroku 16), the first "degaicho" (public unveiling of sacred images outside the temple) was held in Edo for the principal image of Naritasan. The venue was Eitai-ji Temple, which served as the betto-ji (the Buddhist temple that administered the shrine) of Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine. In the Meiji period, the hall of Fukagawa Fudoson Temple was built on this historically connected site.

Saga-cho, located slightly to the north at the mouth of the Sumida River, was an area where large vessels could easily come and go. With the water transport on the Onagi River, wholesale merchants and warehouses lined the streets. The Koto City Fukagawa Edo Museum recreates that streetscape at full scale. Nearby Kiyosumi Gardens began as a garden acquired and developed in the Meiji period by Iwasaki Yataro, founder of the Mitsubishi conglomerate.

This course traces a town of faith continuing from Edo, the life of commoners, and a famous Meiji garden, concluding at the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in Kiba Park to encounter postwar to present-day art.

Major Highlights

• ​Fukagawa Fudoson Temple​​: The Tokyo branch temple of Naritasan Shinsho-ji Temple in Narita City, Chiba Prefecture, affectionately known as "Fukagawa's Fudo-sama." Daily goma fire rituals are performed in the main hall, whose exterior walls are wrapped in Sanskrit characters of Fudo Myo-o's mantra. The former main hall houses "Onegai Fudoson," one of Japan's largest wooden statues of Fudo Myo-o.
• ​Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine​​: A shrine also called "Edo's largest Hachiman-sama." Standing on the grounds is the 3.5-meter-high Yokozuna Sumo Wrestler Monument, inscribed with the ring names of successive yokozuna. The "Japan's Largest Golden O-mikoshi" (portable shrine), standing about 4.4 meters tall, can be viewed through the glass of the mikoshi repository. Beside the o-torii (grand torii gate) stands a bronze statue of Ino Tadataka, who always prayed here before departing on his surveying journeys.
• ​Koto City Fukagawa Edo Museum​​: A full-scale recreation of the Tempo-era streetscape of Fukagawa Saga-cho within a three-story open-well space. Begin by overlooking the town, complete with a fire watchtower, from the top of the stairs. You can step into row houses to touch everyday household tools, and a day in the town transitions over about 15 minutes through lighting and sound effects.
• ​Kiyosumi Gardens​​: A strolling-style pond-and-spring garden featuring hills and dry landscape elements surrounding a central pond, designated as a Scenic Spot of Tokyo. At the edge of Daisensui, a large pond containing three islets, there is the "isowatari," a path of stepping stones along the water's edge. Countless famous rocks, gathered from across the country by the Iwasaki family using their company's steamships, are placed throughout the garden.
• ​Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo​​: An art museum opened in March 1995 on the north side of Kiba Park. Focusing mainly on Japanese postwar art, it collects and exhibits modern and contemporary art from Japan and abroad. The collection exhibition galleries introduce the history of art mainly from 1945 onward through changing thematic displays.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated duration is about 6 hours. From Exit 1 of Monzen-nakacho Station on the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line, a 2-minute walk brings you into "Ninjo Fukagawa Goriyaku-dori," the approach street to Fukagawa Fudoson Temple. After praying at the temple hall, walk about 200 meters southeast to Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine. Temple fairs are held on the 1st, 15th, and 28th of every month, making the approach and station surroundings especially lively.

Walking about 1 kilometer north from Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine brings you to the Koto City Fukagawa Edo Museum. After exploring life in Edo, head about 280 meters southwest to Kiyosumi Gardens. Viewing the Ryotei arbor on the southern shore of the pond from the isowatari stepping stones on the northern shore is considered a recommended sight. Also look for the monument inscribed with Basho's "furuike ya" (old pond) haiku.

Walking about 1 kilometer east from Kiyosumi Gardens leads to the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo. Enter the 140-meter-long entrance hall from the main entrance facing Mitsume-dori Street. For the return journey, it is a 9-minute walk to Exit B2 of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line. As museums have scheduled closing days, be sure to check in advance before visiting.

Summary of the Experience

The flames of the goma ritual at Fudo-sama, the stone monument engraved with yokozuna names, full-scale Edo row houses, a pond garden lined with famous rocks, and contemporary art. As you walk north and east through Fukagawa, the eras from Edo to the present unfold one after another. Experience a day in Fukagawa, from the bustling approach streets of the old shitamachi to the tranquil garden and art museum.