Classic Uji: From Byodo-in Temple to Ujigami-jinja Shrine and the Town of The Tale of Genji

From Byodo-in Temple with its Phoenix Hall, also featured on the 10-yen coin, cross Uji Bridge—one of Japan's three ancient bridges—to the east bank of the Uji River. Visit Uji-jinja Shrine and the World Heritage Site Ujigami-jinja Shrine, and conclude at a museum showcasing the world of the Uji Chapters from The Tale of Genji. This is a classic Uji walking course spending a full day exploring both banks of the Uji River.

History and Regional Appeal

Byodo-in Temple was originally a villa belonging to Minamoto no Toru, which was later passed on to Fujiwara no Michinaga. In 1052 (Eisho 7), Michinaga's son, the regent Fujiwara no Yorimichi, converted this villa into a temple. That year was considered the beginning of Mappo (the Latter Day of the Law), and Pure Land Buddhism, which sought rebirth in the Pure Land, was widely popular. Facing Byodo-in Temple across the Uji River, Ujigami-jinja Shrine came to be revered as its guardian shrine after the Phoenix Hall was completed. Both Byodo-in Temple and Ujigami-jinja Shrine were registered as UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites in 1994 (Heisei 6) as part of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto."

Spanning the Uji River, Uji Bridge is an ancient bridge said to have first been built in 646 (Taika 2), serving as an important gateway to the capital since ancient times. Furthermore, Uji is the primary setting for the final ten chapters of The Tale of Genji, known as the "Uji Chapters." The Uji Chapters begin with the "Hashihime" (The Lady at the Bridge) chapter and end with the "Yume no Ukihashi" (The Floating Bridge of Dreams) chapter. Prayers for the Pure Land, ancient shrines, and literary settings all converge along both banks of the Uji River.

Key Highlights

• ​Byodo-in Temple​​: The Phoenix Hall, standing on an island in a pond, was completed in 1053 (Tengi 1) as an Amida-do Hall. The central hall, both wing corridors, and the tail corridor are designated National Treasures. The principal image, a seated statue of Amida Nyorai (National Treasure), is the only surviving work reliably confirmed to be by the Buddhist sculptor Jocho. At the Hoshokan Museum, you can view National Treasures up close, including the original phoenix sculptures taken down from the roof and statues of praying Bodhisattvas on clouds (Unchu Kuyo Bosatsu).
• ​Uji Bridge​​: Counted as one of "Japan's Three Ancient Bridges" alongside Seta no Karahashi Bridge and Yamazaki Bridge. The current bridge, completed in 1996 (Heisei 8), measures 155.4 meters in length. Between the third set of pillars from the western approach, there is an overhanging structure on the upstream side called the "San-no-ma." At the western approach stands a statue of Murasaki Shikibu reading a text while dressed in a jūnihitoe (twelve-layered ceremonial robe).
• ​Uji-jinja Shrine and Ujigami-jinja Shrine​​: Uji-jinja Shrine enshrines Uji-no-Wakiiratsuko-no-Mikoto, worshipped as a deity of academic achievement, and is known for the legend of the "Mikaeri Usagi" (Looking-back Rabbit) that served as a guide. Ujigami-jinja Shrine's National Treasure main hall (honden) is an unusual structure consisting of three inner sanctuaries covered by a single outer roof, and is regarded as the oldest extant example of shrine architecture. The worship hall (haiden) is also a National Treasure, and within the grounds flows "Kiriharasui," the only remaining spring among the famous Seven Waters of Uji.
• ​The Tale of Genji Museum, Uji City​​: Through exhibits such as a life-sized ox carriage (gissha), a model of Hikaru Genji's Rokujo-in residence, and an experience of kaimami (peeking through fences/screens) enhanced by lighting effects, visitors can enjoy learning about The Tale of Genji and Heian-period culture.

Recommended Route and Duration

The overall course takes approximately 6 hours. Byodo-in Temple is about a 10-minute walk from both Uji Station on the Keihan Uji Line and Uji Station on the JR Nara Line. To reach the front gate, walk through Byodo-in Omotesando, lined with longstanding Uji Tea shops and eateries. Take your time strolling through the Phoenix Hall, gardens, and Hoshokan Museum.

After leaving Byodo-in Temple, return north along Omotesando for about 400 meters to reach the western approach of Uji Bridge. View the statue of Murasaki Shikibu and cross Uji Bridge eastward. The upstream view from the San-no-ma is also magnificent. Uji Bridge is also located right outside Uji Station on the Keihan Uji Line. Uji-jinja Shrine is on the right bank of the Uji River, upstream from Uji Bridge. About 160 meters northeast of Uji-jinja Shrine is Ujigami-jinja Shrine. Along the approach to Ujigami-jinja Shrine stands a stone monument reading "Uji-jinja," which is said to be a remnant from when the two shrines were originally one.

About 260 meters northwest of Ujigami-jinja Shrine is The Tale of Genji Museum, Uji City. After immersing yourself in the world of the Uji Chapters, you can depart from Uji Station on the Keihan Uji Line, about an 8-minute walk away.

Experience Summary

Feel the prayers of Heian nobles seeking paradise at the Phoenix Hall, gaze across the Uji River from the San-no-ma of Uji Bridge, and offer prayers at Ujigami-jinja Shrine, regarded as the oldest shrine architecture. Finally, exploring the literary world of the Uji Chapters will make your walking journey through Uji an even more deeply memorable experience.