Nishinokyo: From Kiko-ji Temple to the Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin, Toshodai-ji Temple, and Yakushi-ji Temple

This walking route begins at Kintetsu Amagatsuji Station, heads to Kiko-ji Temple, views the moat-surrounded Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin, and continues south to Toshodai-ji Temple. It concludes at Yakushi-ji Temple, home to the National Treasure East Pagoda, before finishing at Nishinokyo Station.

History and Local Charm

Nishinokyo is an area in western Nara City, situated to the west of Suzaku-oji Avenue, the former main street of Heijo-kyo. The three temples on this route each have distinct origins.

Kiko-ji Temple was built the year after Gyoki received a donation of land in 721 (Yoro 5). Among the temples built by Gyoki, this was the only one located within Heijo-kyo, serving as an essential base for his missionary work and social initiatives. Gyoki was a high-ranking Buddhist monk who dedicated himself to the construction of the Great Buddha of Todai-ji Temple, and he passed away at this temple in 749 (Tenpyo 21).

Toshodai-ji Temple was founded by the prominent Tang dynasty monk Ganjin. After enduring multiple shipwrecks and losing his eyesight, Ganjin finally reached Japan on his sixth attempt at crossing the sea. After spending five years at Todai-ji Temple, he opened a training hall in 759 for those studying Buddhist monastic precepts.

Yakushi-ji Temple was initiated under a vow by Emperor Tenmu to pray for the recovery of his empress from illness. It was completed in Fujiwara-kyo in 698 and relocated to its current site in 718. Both Toshodai-ji Temple and Yakushi-ji Temple are part of the World Heritage site "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara."

Located between these temples, the Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin is a keyhole-shaped burial mound (zenpo-koen-fun) constructed in the Kofun period, around the late 4th to early 5th century. It dates back to a time prior to the establishment of the capital at Heijo-kyo.

Major Sights and Highlights

• ​Kiko-ji Temple​​: The main hall is called the "Trial Great Buddha Hall" (Kokoromi no Daibutsuden) due to the legend that it was built as a prototype for the Great Buddha Hall of Todai-ji Temple. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1544 (Tenbun 13); standing about 17 meters tall, it is designated as an Important Cultural Property. The principal image, a seated statue of Amida Nyorai measuring 2.33 meters in height, is also an Important Cultural Property. Within the grounds, approximately 80 varieties and 250 pots of lotuses are cultivated.
• ​Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin​​: A keyhole-shaped burial mound with a mound length of about 227 meters; including the surrounding moat, its total length reaches 330 meters. The small island floating in the moat is traditionally said to be the grave of Tajimamori, who passed away following the emperor's death. Because the tachibana citrus fruit Tajimamori brought back is said to be the origin of Japanese confections, he is also revered as a deity of sweets.
• ​Toshodai-ji Temple​​: Standing directly facing you as you pass through the Nandaimon gate, the Golden Hall (Kondo) is a National Treasure retaining its appearance from its founding in the late 8th century. Inside, the principal image of the seated Rushana Buddha, a standing statue of Yakushi Nyorai, and a standing statue of the Thousand-Armed Kannon are enshrined side by side. The Lecture Hall (Kodo) was created by relocating and remodeling the Higashi Choshuden hall of Heijo Palace, and it is the sole remaining building preserving traces of Heijo Palace. In the far northeastern corner of the grounds lies the Kaisan Gobyo, the mausoleum of Ganjin.
• ​Yakushi-ji Temple​​: Built in 730, the East Pagoda is designated as a National Treasure as the oldest extant structure from Heijo-kyo. While appearing six-tiered, it is actually a three-tiered pagoda and is fondly nicknamed "frozen music." The Golden Hall (Kondo) was reconstructed in 1976 and the West Pagoda in 1981, allowing the east and west pagodas to stand side by side once again. The Golden Hall enshrines the National Treasure principal image, the Yakushi Triad.

Recommended Route and Required Time

The estimated required time is about 4 hours. By Kintetsu Railway to Yamato-Saidaiji Station, it takes about 40 minutes from Kyoto by express train, or about 30 minutes from Osaka-Namba by rapid express. From Yamato-Saidaiji Station, take the Kintetsu Kashihara Line to Amagatsuji Station; Kiko-ji Temple is a 10-minute walk away.

After leaving Kiko-ji Temple, walk about 640 meters southeast to reach the Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin. Stand at the edge of the moat to view the burial mound across the water alongside the small island in the foreground. From there, continue southeast for about 590 meters to Toshodai-ji Temple. Walking directly from Kiko-ji Temple to Toshodai-ji Temple takes about 21 minutes, while stopping at the Mausoleum of Emperor Suinin adds about 10 minutes.

From Toshodai-ji Temple, walk south for about 8 minutes to reach Yakushi-ji Temple. Because Yakushi-ji Temple is right near Nishinokyo Station on the Kintetsu Kashihara Line, you can return via Yamato-Saidaiji Station from Nishinokyo Station.

During the lotus blossom season from June to August, you can also add Saidai-ji Temple near Yamato-Saidaiji Station to visit the four temples along the "Lotus Road." This route connects Saidai-ji Temple, Kiko-ji Temple, Toshodai-ji Temple, and Yakushi-ji Temple—all famed for lotuses—with a walking model course of about 4 hours and 10 minutes. Because lotus blossoms open in the morning and close in the afternoon, starting your walk early is recommended.

Experience Summary

A main hall called the "Trial Great Buddha Hall," a moated ancient tomb, a temple founded by Ganjin, and an East Pagoda standing since the Nara period. As you walk southward, you can trace in sequence the footprints of people who lived in the era of the Nara capital. Conclude your journey in the precincts of Yakushi-ji Temple, admiring the contrast between the East and West Pagodas.