Driving Through the Mountain Villages East of Nara: From the Plum Village of Tsukigase to Yagyu-no-Sato, Enjo-ji Temple, and Mt. Wakakusa

This drive travels from east to west through the mountain villages east of Nara City. It takes you from Tsukigase Plum Grove, where plums spread across the Nabari River valley, to Yagyu-no-Sato, the home of Yagyu Shinkage-ryu master swordsmen. After visiting Enjo-ji Temple, known for its Dainichi Nyorai statue by Unkei, the day concludes by viewing the sunset from the summit of Mt. Wakakusa.

History and Regional Appeal

All four locations on this route are situated within present-day Nara City. Tsukigase, located at the northeastern edge of Nara Prefecture, was once an independent village before being merged into Nara City in 2005. The history of its plum grove is old, dating back to the Kamakura period, and during the Edo period, many literati, including Saito Setsudo and Rai Sanyo, visited the area.

Yagyu-no-Sato lies nestled among the mountains in eastern Nara City. It is the birthplace of the Yagyu Shinkage-ryu master swordsmen, who served as swordsmanship instructors to the Tokugawa shogunal family during the Edo period. When Yagyu Munenori established the Yagyu domain as a 10,000-koku daimyo in the Kanei era, this land was developed as the center of domain administration. Because of its mountainous location, it avoided rapid urbanization and large-scale development, preserving the traditional order of land use among paddy fields, houses, and mountain forests to this day.

Between Nara Park and Yagyu, the Yagyu Kaido hiking trail has been established, with Enjo-ji Temple situated roughly at its midpoint. This day trip follows National Route 369, which runs past Enjo-ji Temple, and concludes at Mt. Wakakusa east of Nara Park.

Major Highlights

• ​Tsukigase Plum Grove​​: More than 10,000 plum trees spread along the Nabari River valley. It was designated as a national Place of Scenic Beauty under the name "Tsukigase Bairin" in 1922. At Hitome Hakkei, located about a 10-minute walk from the plum grove entrance, you can take in a panoramic view of the Nabari River and valley surrounded by plum blossoms.
• ​Yagyu-no-Sato​​: Hotoku-ji Temple is the family temple of the Yagyu clan across generations, and the family cemetery behind the temple is a noted spot for autumn foliage. The Ittoseki is a massive split stone measuring about 7 meters on each side, with a legend that Yagyu Sekishusai struck it while dueling a tengu. The Former Yagyu Feudal Domain Chief Retainer Residence was the home of Oyamada Shurei, a chief retainer who restored the domain's finances, featuring impressive stone walls.
• ​Enjo-ji Temple​​: The seated statue of Dainichi Nyorai, a National Treasure, is known as the earliest surviving work of Unkei. The Kasuga-do and Hakusan-do halls, National Treasures standing east of the main hall, are considered the oldest remaining structures built in the Kasuga-zukuri style. In autumn, the trees around the pond of the scenic garden change color and reflect on the water's surface.
• ​Mt. Wakakusa​​: A three-tiered mountain covered in grass, standing at an elevation of 342 meters. From the summit, you can overlook the town of Nara, including Kofuku-ji Temple and Todai-ji Temple. The night view from the summit was selected as one of the "New Three Great Night Views of Japan." The sunset is also a beautiful sight.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The recommended duration is about 7 hours. Tsukigase Plum Grove can be reached in about 10 minutes from the Satsukibashi Interchange on the Meihan National Highway. The general period for plum blossoms is from late February to late March. Outside the plum blossom season, you may skip Tsukigase and start directly from Yagyu-no-Sato, which is about a 25 to 30-minute drive from the Hari Interchange on the Meihan National Highway via National Route 369.

From Tsukigase, head west toward Yagyu-no-Sato, roughly 9 kilometers in a straight line. Since driving between central Nara City and Tsukigase Plum Grove takes about 1 hour, be sure to budget travel time accordingly.

In Yagyu-no-Sato, park your car at the municipal parking lot and explore on foot. Ittoseki is about a 15-minute walk from the municipal parking lot. Walking the route starting from the bus stop to Hotoku-ji Temple, Ittoseki, the jinya (administrative base) ruins, and the chief retainer residence takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes just for walking. Choose which spots to visit based on your available time.

The next stop, Enjo-ji Temple, is about 5.4 kilometers southwest of Yagyu-no-Sato along National Route 369 and offers parking. First, try viewing the two-story gate and main hall standing on higher ground from the pond's edge.

From Enjo-ji Temple, head west along National Route 369 toward the town of Nara. The drive between Enjo-ji Temple and Kintetsu-Nara Station takes about 25 minutes along National Route 369. To reach Mt. Wakakusa, take the Shin-Wakakusayama Course of the Nara Okuyama Driveway. This toll road runs back and forth between the toll gate north of Shosoin and the summit, taking about 15 to 20 minutes by car from the toll gate. From the Mt. Wakakusa summit parking lot, it takes a 5-minute walk to reach the peak.

While the hiking path on foot is closed during winter, the summit can be reached by car, allowing visitors to enjoy the sunset even during the plum blossom season. Because the driveway has operating hours, be sure to verify the closing time if you plan to stay for the night view.

Experience Summary

Stroll through a valley of plum blossoms, face a legendary giant split stone tied to master swordsmen, and stand before Unkei's earliest surviving work. At the end of a day driving westward through mountain villages, gaze over the town of Nara bathed in sunset from atop Mt. Wakakusa. This is a one-day drive tracing the paths of literati, swordsmen, and Buddhist sculptors.