From Nijo Castle to Modern Architecture on Sanjo-dori and Nishiki Market

This one-day itinerary takes you from Nijo Castle and Shinsenen Garden to its south, one subway stop to Karasuma Oike to visit the Kyoto International Manga Museum and The Museum of Kyoto, and finishes with a walk to Nishiki Market.

History and Local Charm

Located south of Nijo Castle, Shinsenen Garden is an imperial garden constructed in 794 by Emperor Kanmu, situated southeast of the Daidairi (Great Imperial Palace) of Heian-kyo. A purification ritual held at Shinsenen Garden in 869 became the origin of the Gion Matsuri Festival. In 1603, when Tokugawa Ieyasu built Nijo Castle to protect the Kyoto Imperial Palace and to serve as lodgings when the shogun traveled to Kyoto, spring water from Shinsenen Garden was used for the castle's moats, and the garden lost the northern part of its grounds. In 1867, the 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, announced his intention to restore political authority to the Emperor (Taisei Hokan) in the Grand Chamber of Ninomaru Palace. Sanjo-dori Street, extending east of the castle, bustled during the Edo period as the western starting point of the Tokaido road, and from the Meiji period onward, banks and post offices were built along it. Modern red-brick architecture still remains today. The building of Tatsuike Elementary School, which opened in 1869 and was funded by donations from local residents, was reborn as the Kyoto International Manga Museum. Just one block north of Shijo-dori, Nishiki Market continues to thrive as "Kyoto's Kitchen."

Key Highlights

• ​Nijo Castle​​: The Ninomaru Palace, designated a National Treasure, is the only remaining palace complex of its kind among Japan's castles, well known for its "nightingale floors" (uguisubari) that squeak like chirping birds when walked upon. The castle features many highlights, including the Karamon Gate adorned with vividly colored carvings, the Ninomaru Garden (a Special Place of Scenic Beauty), the Honmaru Palace relocated from the former Katsura-no-miya residence, and views from the castle keep ruins.
• ​Shinsenen Garden​​: The vermilion Hojo Bridge spans Hojoju Pond, where Kobo Daishi Kukai is said to have prayed for rain. It is believed that if you cross the bridge while focusing on a single wish and then pray at the Zennyo Ryuo shrine on the pond's island, your wish will come true.
• ​Kyoto International Manga Museum​​: Housed in a renovated elementary school building originally constructed in 1929, it features about 50,000 manga books arranged across the 200-meter-long "Wall of Manga" shelves, which visitors can freely pick up and read. On the wall of the atrium hangs a large wooden sculpture of Tezuka Osamu's "Phoenix" (Hi no Tori).
• ​The Museum of Kyoto​​: The red-brick Annex facing Sanjo-dori was formerly the Bank of Japan's Kyoto Branch, built in 1906 and designed by Tatsuno Kingo and his disciple Nagano Uheiji; it is designated a National Important Cultural Property. The former banking hall, with its high open ceiling, retains a Meiji-era atmosphere, while the Main Building introduces Kyoto's history and culture.
• ​Nishiki Market​​: Known as "Kyoto's Kitchen," this shopping street stretches about 390 meters from Teramachi to Takakura and is lined with around 130 shops. Seasonal ingredients such as Kyoto vegetables, yuba (tofu skin), and nama-fu (wheat gluten) gather here. It is also the birthplace of Edo-period painter Ito Jakuchu, and his artworks can be seen in various spots throughout the market.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The estimated time required is about 6 hours. At Nijo Castle, the official recommended course takes about 2 hours, entering through the main Higashi Ote-mon Gate, and touring the Karamon Gate, Ninomaru Palace, Ninomaru Garden, Honmaru, and Seiryu-en Garden. After leaving the castle, head about 300 meters south to Shinsenen Garden. From Nijojo-mae Station on the Tozai Subway Line, a 2-minute walk from Shinsenen Garden, take the train one stop to Karasuma Oike Station, then walk north for about 2 minutes to reach the Kyoto International Manga Museum. As Shinsenen Garden is about 1 kilometer from the manga museum, you can also walk. From the manga museum, head southeast about 400 meters to reach The Museum of Kyoto on Sanjo-dori. You can also dine at the "Roji-tenpo" (alley shops) inside the museum. In addition to the museum's Annex, the red-brick Nakagyo Post Office, built in 1902, still stands at Sanjo Higashinotoin. Conclude your day with a walk of about 600 meters southeast from the museum to Nishiki Market. Please refrain from eating while walking in Nishiki Market; instead, enjoy your food in front of the shop where you purchased it or inside the shop. For the return trip, it is about a 3-minute walk to Shijo Station on the Karasuma Subway Line or Karasuma Station on the Hankyu Kyoto Line. Cherry blossoms at Nijo Castle are usually at their best from late March through April. On weekends and public holidays, the Manga Museum hosts the "Manga Workshop," featuring demonstrations by professional manga artists.

Experience Summary

Starting from a Heian imperial garden and a Tokugawa castle, passing through Meiji-era red brick and a Showa elementary school, this tour leads you to Kyoto's Kitchen. Take half a day to a full day to walk through the heart of the city and appreciate the deep layers of the ancient capital's history.