Yamanobe-no-Michi Path (South): From Miwa's Omiwa-jinja Shrine to Hibara-jinja Shrine, Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound, and Makimuku Ruins

This walking route takes you from Miwa Station on the JR Sakurai Line to Omiwa-jinja Shrine, passes Sai-jinja Shrine, and follows the Yamanobe-no-Michi Path north to Hibara-jinja Shrine. From there, head west to visit the Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound and the Makimuku Ruins, finishing your walk at JR Makimuku Station. In half a day, you can tour ancient shrines that worship a sacred mountain and sites that mark the beginning of the Kofun period.

History and Regional Charm

The Yamanobe-no-Michi Path runs along the hills on the eastern side of the Nara Basin, connecting Sakurai to Nara. It is said to be Japan's oldest official highway. Today, the traces of this ancient trail are best preserved between Isonokami-jingu Shrine in Tenri City and the southern foot of Mt. Miwa in Sakurai City. This guide begins walking from Miwa at its southern end. The areas around Omiwa-jinja Shrine and, to its north, Sai-jinja Shrine and Hibara-jinja Shrine preserve particularly well the atmosphere of the ancient path among the sections of the Yamanobe-no-Michi Path.

Mt. Miwa is a well-shaped, conical mountain with a height of 467 meters. Because the enshrined deity, Omononushi-no-Okami, resides in this sacred mountain, Omiwa-jinja Shrine has possessed no main sanctuary (honden) since ancient times; instead, worshipers venerate Mt. Miwa through the Mitsu-torii (triple torii gate) located behind the worship hall (haiden). During the reign of the tenth emperor, Emperor Sujin, the deity was deeply revered as a nation-building deity and the guardian deity of the state. During the same reign of Emperor Sujin, the area around Hibara-jinja Shrine is said to be the place where Amaterasu Omikami, previously enshrined within the imperial palace, was relocated and worshiped.

To the west of the foot of the mountain spread the Makimuku Ruins. It is the site of a large-scale settlement that suddenly appeared at the beginning of the 3rd century and continued until the early 4th century, and it is regarded as the leading candidate site for the Kinai theory of Yamatai. Located within the archaeological site, the Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound is an emergent-period tumulus of outstanding scale, believed to have been built between the mid- and late 3rd century. Ancient shrines worshiping the sacred mountain and the birthplace of the Kofun period stand close enough together to be explored on foot.

Highlights

• ​Omiwa-jinja Shrine​​: The worship hall was rebuilt in 1664 by Tokugawa Ietsuna, the fourth Tokugawa shogun, and together with the Mitsu-torii gate located in the back, is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The Mitsu-torii gate features a unique structure combining three Myojin-style torii gates in a single horizontal row. The sacred cedar tree "Mi-no-Kamisugi" was named because a white snake, considered an incarnation of Omononushi-no-Okami, is said to live there, and eggs, the snake's favorite food, are offered before it. Sai-jinja Shrine, located past Kusuri-michi (Medicine Path), is deeply revered as a shrine for healing diseases, and medicinal water springs from the Kusuri-ido well beside its worship hall.
• ​Hibara-jinja Shrine​​: An auxiliary shrine (sessha) of Omiwa-jinja Shrine that enshrines Amaterasu Omikami. As the place where Amaterasu Omikami was first relocated and worshiped outside the imperial palace, it is called "Motoise" (original Ise) as the beginning of Ise Jingu. The grounds have neither a main sanctuary nor a worship hall; worshipers venerate the divine seat through the Mitsu-torii gate. The sunset over Mt. Nijo seen through the torii gate is an especially popular view.
• ​Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound​​: A keyhole-shaped burial mound (zenpo-koen-fun) with a mound length of around 290 meters, designated by the Imperial Household Agency as the Oichi-no-haka tomb of Yamatototohimomosohime-no-mikoto. There is also a theory that it is the tomb of Queen Himiko of Yamatai. The Nihon Shoki records that it was constructed by people passing stones from hand to hand from Mt. Osaka. A part of the surrounding moat is Hashinaka Pond, which has been selected as one of Japan's Top 100 Agricultural Reservoirs.
• ​Makimuku Ruins​​: One of Japan's largest settlement sites of the 3rd century, stretching 2 kilometers east-west and 1.5 kilometers north-south. The remains of large buildings from the first half of the 3rd century found in the Tsuji district are also theorized by some to be the palace of Queen Himiko. The excavated building remains have been backfilled, and a total of 65 cedar pillars have been erected across three building sites.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. The JR Sakurai Line runs between Nara Station and Sakurai Station. From Miwa Station to Omiwa-jinja Shrine is about a 5-minute walk. On the approach stands the Otorii grand torii gate with a height of 32.2 meters. Upon entering the shrine grounds, first pay your respects at Haraedo-jinja Shrine before proceeding to the worship hall. Afterward, view Mi-no-Kamisugi and follow the Kusuri-michi path toward Sai-jinja Shrine. From Omiwa-jinja Shrine to Sai-jinja Shrine is about a 15-minute walk.

If climbing Mt. Miwa for worship, registration is required at Sai-jinja Shrine. Climbing for worship is an act of religious devotion distinct from sightseeing or hiking, and photography, eating, and drinking are prohibited on the mountain. The time required for climbing the mountain is not included in the duration of this guide.

From Sai-jinja Shrine, walk north along the Yamanobe-no-Michi Path for about 25 minutes to reach Hibara-jinja Shrine. Around the area, monuments inscribed with poems by figures such as Kakinomoto no Hitomaro are dotted about. Expansive views overlooking the Yamato Plain open up near the shrine.

From Hibara-jinja Shrine, head west for about 1.3 kilometers to reach the Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound. Entry onto the mound is not permitted, so view it from the outside. From the Hashihaka Kofun Burial Mound, walk north for about 790 meters to reach the Makimuku Ruins, where you can see the cedar pillars erected at the building sites. For your return, it is about a 15-minute walk from the Makimuku Ruins to JR Makimuku Station.

The Yamanobe-no-Michi Path continues north beyond Hibara-jinja Shrine, passing the Mausoleum of Emperor Keiko and the Mausoleum of Emperor Sujin on the way toward Isonokami-jingu Shrine in Tenri.

Summary

Begin your walk from an ancient shrine worshiping Mt. Miwa and proceed north along a trail retaining the atmosphere of the ancient path. After viewing the direction of Mt. Nijo in front of the Mitsu-torii gate of Motoise, visit the massive burial mound built on flat ground and the settlement remains that partly overlap with the era of Queen Himiko. Spend half a day tracing ancient forms of deity worship and the dawn of the Kofun period at the foot of Mt. Miwa.