From the Autumn Leaves of Kurodani and Shinnyo-do to Ginkaku-ji Temple

This walking route begins at Heian-jingu Shrine in Okazaki, heads northeast to Konkai Komyo-ji Temple (affectionately known as "Kurodani-san") and Shinsho Gokuraku-ji Temple (better known as Shinnyo-do Temple) to take in their autumn foliage, and then continues on to Ginkaku-ji Temple.

History and Local Charm

Heading northeast from Okazaki, where Heian-jingu Shrine stands, you will reach Konkai Komyo-ji Temple on elevated ground overlooking the city of Kyoto. Its history began when the priest Honen came down from Mt. Hiei's Kurodani area and built a humble grass hut here; today, local residents fondly refer to it as "Kurodani-san." During the late Edo period (Bakumatsu), Matsudaira Katamori, the lord of the Aizu Domain and Military Commissioner of Kyoto, set up his headquarters here. Just to the north stands Shinsho Gokuraku-ji Temple, a Tendai sect temple widely known by the name of its main hall, "Shinnyo-do." Further to the northeast, at the foot of Mt. Daimonji, lies Ginkaku-ji Temple, which originated as a mountain villa built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. In a single day, you can walk through a shrine founded in the Meiji era, a temple that preserves late-Edo history, an ancient temple enveloped in autumn leaves, and the mountain retreat of a Muromachi-period shogun.

Key Highlights

• ​Heian-jingu Shrine​​: Founded in 1895 (Meiji 28) to mark the 1,100th anniversary of the transfer of the capital to Heian-kyo, with Emperor Kanmu enshrined as its deity. Its buildings reproduce the Chodoin (the main administrative complex of Heian-kyo) at approximately 5/8 scale, and six structures, including the Daigokuden Hall and Otenmon Gate, are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The Shin'en Garden surrounding the shrine buildings is a pond-strolling garden designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty.
• ​Konkai Komyo-ji Temple​​: The grand head temple of the Jodo sect, considered the very first temple of the sect, originating from the grass hut built by Honen in 1175 (Joan 5). In 1862 (Bunkyu 2), it served as the headquarters of the Aizu Domain, and in the following year, Kondo Isami, Serizawa Kamo, and others were granted an audience here with Matsudaira Katamori, giving the temple strong ties to the Shinsengumi. Its "Goko Shiyui Amida Butsu" statue, depicting Amitabha Buddha with hair grown thick and piled high after aeons of meditation, has drawn popular attention as the "Afro Buddha."
• ​Shinsho Gokuraku-ji Temple (Shinnyo-do Temple)​​: Founded in 984 (Eikan 2) when the priest Kaisan from Mt. Hiei transferred a statue of Amida Nyorai here. The principal image is a standing Amida Nyorai known as the "Nodding Amida" based on a legend that it nodded three times; usually kept hidden, the miniature shrine housing the statue is opened every year on November 15. The main hall, rebuilt in 1717 (Kyoho 2), is an Important Cultural Property of Japan, and the spacious grounds featuring a three-storied pagoda approximately 30 meters tall are widely appreciated for autumn foliage.
• ​Ginkaku-ji Temple​​: Officially named Higashiyama Jisho-ji Temple, it was converted into a Zen temple following the will of Ashikaga Yoshimasa from his mountain villa, the Higashiyama-dono. The Kannonden Hall (commonly called the Silver Pavilion) and the Togu-do Hall—which contains the Dojinsai, regarded as the prototype for four-and-a-half-tatami tearooms—are National Treasures, and in 1994 the site was registered as a World Heritage Site as part of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto." In front of the Hojo (Abbot's Hall) lie the Ginshadan (sea of silver sand) and the Kogetsudai (moon-viewing sand platform).

Recommended Route and Duration

The recommended duration is about 4 hours. Start at Heian-jingu Shrine, about a 10-minute walk from Exit 1 of Higashiyama Station on the Subway Tozai Line. After visiting the shrine, walk about 640 meters northeast to Konkai Komyo-ji Temple on the heights. Shinsho Gokuraku-ji Temple (Shinnyo-do Temple) is about 210 meters north from there. Mt. Daimonji can be viewed from the garden of Shinnyo-do, and from there it is about a 1-kilometer walk northeast to Ginkaku-ji Temple at its foot. On the return trip, it is about a 10-minute walk to the "Ginkakuji-michi" city bus stop. In autumn, Shinnyo-do's expansive precinct is colored by vibrant foliage, while Konkai Komyo-ji also offers the contrast of temple halls with colored maple and cherry leaves. The elevated Konkai Komyo-ji is also known as a prime spot to view the autumn evening glow over Kyoto city. The Philosopher's Path begins in front of the gate of Ginkaku-ji, allowing you to extend your walk if time permits.

Experience Summary

From an Okazaki shrine dating to the Meiji period, to Kurodani-san filled with late-Edo history, the autumn leaves of Shinnyo-do with its Nodding Amida, and on to Yoshimasa's mountain villa at Ginkaku-ji. As you walk from Okazaki to the foot of Mt. Daimonji, experience Kyoto's autumn colors and its overlapping layers of history all in a single day.