Zen Temples of Daitoku-ji Temple and Aburi-mochi of Imamiya-jinja Shrine
Kita Ward, Kyoto
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This half-day course takes you on foot from Takeisao-jinja Shrine on Mt. Funaoka through Daitoku-ji Temple and its sub-temple Daisen-in Temple in Murasakino, concluding with Aburi-mochi served before the gate of Imamiya-jinja Shrine. Walk through historic sites connected to Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Sen no Rikyu, and Ikkyu Sojun.
History & Local Charm
Takeisao-jinja Shrine, enshrined atop Mt. Funaoka, was commissioned in 1869 by Emperor Meiji in recognition of Oda Nobunaga's achievements. Following the Honno-ji Incident at Honno-ji Temple, Toyotomi Hideyoshi attempted to build a temple on Mt. Funaoka to comfort Nobunaga's spirit, but it was never completed. Spreading to the north is Daitoku-ji Temple, the head temple of the Rinzai sect's Daitoku-ji school, founded in 1315 at the end of the Kamakura period by Daito Kokushi. After being burned during the Onin War, the temple was restored by Ikkyu Sojun. In the Momoyama period, Toyotomi Hideyoshi held Nobunaga's funeral here and built Soken-in Temple to pray for his soul, leading various warlords to establish numerous sub-temples (tatchu) one after another. Today, there are a total of 24 branch temples and sub-temples, and the site is deeply connected to many tea masters, including Sen no Rikyu. Further north lies Imamiya-jinja Shrine, which originated from a festival held to quell epidemics. The Murasakino Goryo-e, a ritual performed on Mt. Funaoka in 994 to quell epidemics in the capital, was the origin of the Imamiya Festival.
Key Highlights
- Takeisao-jinja Shrine: Located at the summit of Mt. Funaoka, the main hall faces east, offering views of the Higashiyama mountain range, including Mt. Hiei and Mt. Daimonji. Along the main approach (omote-sando), a stone monument is carved with a passage from "Atsumori," which Nobunaga danced before departing for the Battle of Okehazama.
- Daitoku-ji Temple: A Zen temple complex whose principal buildings—the Imperial Messenger Gate (Chokushimon), the Sanmon gate, the Buddha Hall (Butsuden), the Dharma Hall (Hatto), and the Abbot's Quarters (Hojo)—are aligned from south to north. Notable highlights include the Kinmokaku Gate (Sanmon), where Sen no Rikyu added a second story, and the Chinese-style Karamon Gate, a National Treasure said to be a surviving structure of Jurakudai. Only a portion of the branch and sub-temples are regularly open to the public. Soken-in Temple, which houses the memorial towers of Nobunaga's clan, is usually closed to visitors but occasionally holds special openings in spring and autumn.
- Daisen-in Temple: A sub-temple of Daitoku-ji Temple featuring a main hall designated as a National Treasure, said to have been built in 1513. Its Muromachi-period dry landscape garden (karesansui), representing water cascading from a waterfall in Mt. Horai and flowing toward the great ocean using stones and white sand, is designated as a national Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty.
- Imamiya-jinja Shrine: A sacred stone called "Ahokashi-san" is said to grant wishes if you stroke it with a wish in mind and then lift it, finding it lighter than before. In front of the shrine gate, you can enjoy the specialty Aburi-mochi—rice cakes dusted with soybean powder, skewered on bamboo, grilled over charcoal, and coated in a white miso sauce.
Recommended Route & Duration
The estimated time required is about 4 hours. Take the Kyoto City Bus to "Kenkun-jinja-mae" and walk about 9 minutes to Takeisao-jinja Shrine. Climb from the foot of the hill by the large torii gate up to the shrine buildings on the hill, and after paying your respects, descend via the north approach (kita-sando). From the entrance of the north approach, it is about a 10-minute walk to the main quarters of Daitoku-ji Temple. Walking northward through the Daitoku-ji Temple grounds for about 200 meters brings you to Daisen-in Temple, and from there it is roughly 350 meters west to Imamiya-jinja Shrine. The Aburi-mochi shops are located near the east gate of Imamiya-jinja Shrine. For the return trip, the "Imamiya-jinja-mae" city bus stop is located just nearby. Annually, the Kokei-ki Memorial is held at Daisen-in Temple on March 17, the Yasurai Festival at Imamiya-jinja Shrine on the second Sunday of April, and the Funaoka Taisai Festival at Takeisao-jinja Shrine on October 19.
Summary of the Experience
From the hilltop shrine honoring Oda Nobunaga to Zen temples and rock gardens associated with Sen no Rikyu and Ikkyu Sojun, concluding with aromatic Aburi-mochi outside a shrine born from ancient epidemic-calming rituals, spend a half-day immersing yourself in the rich history of Murasakino.