Ichijoji: Shisendo Temple, Enko-ji Temple, and Shugakuin Imperial Villa

At the southwestern foot of Mt. Hiei, stretching from Ichijoji to Shugakuin, mountain villas and temples built in the early Edo period by literati and members of the imperial family stand within walking distance of one another. Starting on foot from Ichijoji Station on the Eizan Railway, this course heads north through Shisendo Jozan-ji Temple, Enko-ji Temple, and Manshu-in Temple toward Shugakuin Imperial Villa.

History and Local Charm

The temples and imperial villa in this area largely took their present forms in the mid-17th century, during the early Edo period. Ishikawa Jozan, a samurai who served Tokugawa Ieyasu before becoming a literatus, built the mountain villa of Shisendo in 1641 at the age of 59. In 1656 (Meireki 2), Prince Ryosho relocated and built Manshu-in Temple on its current site. Around the same time, Retired Emperor Gomizunoo began the construction of Shugakuin Imperial Villa, completing it around 1659 (Manji 2). Enko-ji Temple, which originated from a school founded by Ieyasu in Fushimi, also relocated to this area in 1667 (Kanbun 7).

Prince Ryosho is said to have received advice on building Manshu-in Temple from his elder brother Prince Toshitada, who is said to have completed Katsura Imperial Villa. Because the shoin (drawing halls) share design elements with Katsura Imperial Villa, the temple is known as the "Small Katsura Imperial Villa." Shugakuin Imperial Villa is a mountain retreat built more than 30 years after Katsura Imperial Villa. Comparing these various gardens while walking is a special pleasure unique to this area.

Major Highlights

• ​Shisendo Jozan-ji Temple​​: On the four walls of the central "Shisen-no-ma" (Hall of the Immortal Poets) hang portraits of 36 Chinese poets painted by Kano Tan'yu, alongside each poet's poem written out by Jozan, which became the origin of the name Shisendo. In the Chinese-style garden where a stream flows through white sand, the sound of a shishi-odoshi (bamboo water clapper), said to have been devised by Jozan, echoes.
• ​Enko-ji Temple​​: The Jugyu-no-niwa, a pond-strolling garden themed on the "Ten Bulls" (Jugyuzu), is beautiful with its moss and autumn foliage, accompanied by the clear reverberations of a suikinkutsu water harp. Passing through the temple gate, visitors are greeted by the Honryutei, a Heisei-era dry landscape garden where a dragon appears to race through swirling white sand. The temple's approximately 50,000 wooden printing types, the oldest in Japan, are designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
• ​Manshu-in Temple​​: A monzeki temple (temple traditionally headed by imperial princes or nobles) of the Tendai sect. The Oshoin Hall and Koshoin Hall, both Important Cultural Properties, are considered representative surviving examples of Sukiya-style shoin architecture. In front of the Oshoin Hall spreads a dry landscape garden designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty, featuring a crane island and a turtle island.
• ​Shugakuin Imperial Villa​​: An imperial villa comprising three separate villas (Upper, Middle, and Lower), pine-lined paths connecting them, and surrounding farmland spreading on both sides. Turning around at the Rin'untei Pavilion in the Upper Villa reveals the Yokuryu-chi Pond stretching below, with sweeping views of the northern mountains of Kyoto and the peaks of the western mountains.

Recommended Route and Duration

The approximate duration is about 5 hours, including sightseeing. Visiting Shugakuin Imperial Villa requires an application with the Imperial Household Agency, and tours begin at fixed times guided by staff; plan your visit to the temples in Ichijoji according to your tour time. In addition to advance online bookings, same-day registration on-site is available on a first-come, first-served basis, but advance booking is recommended as visitor numbers are limited. Please note when traveling with children that entry is permitted only for visitors aged 18 and older. The walking distance inside the tour is approximately 3 kilometers and includes narrow stone bridges without handrails, large steps, and steep slopes, so wear comfortable walking shoes.

From Ichijoji Station on the Eizan Railway, it is about a 15-minute walk to Shisendo Jozan-ji Temple. Enko-ji Temple is located about 190 meters northeast of Shisendo. During the autumn foliage season, the visiting procedures for Enko-ji Temple may change, so check notices on the official website before departing. Manshu-in Temple is about 700 meters northeast of Enko-ji Temple, and Shugakuin Imperial Villa is about 550 meters north of Manshu-in. For the return trip, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from Shugakuin Imperial Villa to Shugakuin Station on the Eizan Railway.

Experience Summary

From a literatus's retirement villa and a temple of learning to a monzeki temple headed by an imperial prince and an imperial villa of a retired emperor, walking northward along the foot of Mt. Hiei gradually reveals the artistic intentions early Edo-period creators embedded in these gardens. With spring flowers, fresh green foliage, and autumn leaves, it is an area visitors will want to return to across different seasons.