Ancient Temples South of Gion: Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple, Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple, and Yasui Konpiragu Shrine
Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto
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This walking course takes you north from Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple through Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple, Kennin-ji Temple, and Yasui Konpiragu Shrine, exploring ancient temples and shrines south of Gion. All four locations are just a few minutes' walk apart, measuring around 700 meters in a straight line.
History and Local Charm
During the Heian period, this area was known as Rokuhara and was deeply connected to the Taira clan; mansions of the clan once lined the area from Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple to around present-day Gojo-dori Street. Matsubara-dori Street, which passes in front of the gates of Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple and Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple, is an old thoroughfare corresponding to Gojo Oji of Heian-kyo. As the city spread eastward, the street was extended across the Kamo River toward Kiyomizu-dera Temple, and it flourished as an approach road to Kiyomizu-dera Temple and as a temple town for both temples. Today, alongside the two temples, traditional shops still line the street.
The area around Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple was along the path leading to Toribeno, a burial ground east of Heian-kyo, and has long been called "Rokudo no Tsuji" (the Crossroads of the Six Realms), said to be the boundary between this world and the afterlife. Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple was revived in the 3rd year of Joji (1364) by the abbot of Kennin-ji Temple and now belongs to the Kennin-ji branch of the Rinzai sect. Kennin-ji Temple itself was founded in the 2nd year of Kennin (1202) during the Kamakura period and is Kyoto's first Zen temple. Just east of Kennin-ji Temple is Yasui Konpiragu Shrine, known as a place of prayer for severing bad ties and tying good bonds.
Highlights
- Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple: Founded in the 5th year of Tenryaku (951) by Kuya Shonin. It preserves Kamakura-period Important Cultural Properties, such as the standing statue of Kuya Shonin—carved following the legend that six Amida Buddhas appeared from his mouth as he chanted the Nembutsu—and a seated statue of Taira no Kiyomori holding a Buddhist sutra scroll. On the grounds is Kiyomori-zuka, a memorial stupa for Taira no Kiyomori.
- Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple: Affectionately known as "Rokudo-san." Legend holds that the Heian-period official Ono no Takamura served at the court of King Enma at night, and in the garden behind the main hall is a well said to have been used by Takamura to travel to the netherworld. It has long been believed that the sound of the "welcoming bell" (mukaegane), rung during Obon to welcome ancestral spirits, reaches into the netherworld.
- Kennin-ji Temple: The head temple of the Kennin-ji branch of Rinzai Zen Buddhism, founded by Zen Master Yosai. Visitors can see a high-resolution reproduction of Tawaraya Sotatsu's National Treasure "Folding Screen of Wind God and Thunder God," a depiction of twin dragons spanning the ceiling of the Hatto (Dharma Hall), and the Cho-on-tei garden, designed to show its front face from any of the four sides.
- Yasui Konpiragu Shrine: Known for the "En-kiri En-musubi Stone," a large stone shaped like an ema (votive plaque). Visitors write their wishes on katashiro (paper substitutes), crawl through the hole in the stone from front to back to break bad ties, and crawl back from behind to front to bind good ties. The shrine also features the Konpira Ema Museum, Japan's first gallery dedicated to ema.
Recommended Route and Duration
The recommended duration is about 3 hours. Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple is about a 7-minute walk from Kiyomizu-Gojo Station on the Keihan Railway, or about 7 minutes from the Kiyomizu-michi city bus stop. From Rokuharamitsu-ji Temple, it is about 240 meters northeast to Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple, about 260 meters northwest from there to Kennin-ji Temple, and about 200 meters east from Kennin-ji Temple to Yasui Konpiragu Shrine. While the grounds of Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple are normally open for worship, viewing the interior of the halls, including the main deity and the well leading to the netherworld, requires visiting during special public viewings or making an advance reservation (as a rule, for groups of 5 or more). Kennin-ji Temple closes for visits in the late afternoon, so it is recommended to visit while the sun is still high. On the way back, it is about a 1-minute walk from Yasui Konpiragu Shrine to the Higashiyama Yasui city bus stop, and about 10 minutes to Keihan Gion-Shijo Station. Yasaka-jinja Shrine and Kodai-ji Temple are also within a 10-minute walk. Leading up to Obon, from August 7 to 10, there is a custom called "Rokudo Mairi," where people visit Rokudo Chinno-ji Temple to welcome ancestral spirits.
Summary of Experience
Encounter the likeness of Kuya Shonin at a temple in Rokuhara tied to the Taira clan, hear the legends of traveling to the underworld at Rokudo no Tsuji—said to be the boundary between worlds—admire the Zen temple's garden and ceiling dragons, and crawl through the En-kiri En-musubi Stone. Enjoy a leisurely walk visiting these ancient temples south of Gion along streets that retain traces of the historic Gojo Oji.