Mukojima: From Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens to Mimeguri-jinja Shrine, Ushijima-jinja Shrine, and the Cherry Blossoms of Sumida Park

History and Regional Appeal

Mukojima is an area where the people of Edo enjoyed seasonal flowers. Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens is a "privately operated flower garden" opened during the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804–1830), when the culture of Edo's townspeople flourished, by antique merchant Sahara Kikuu. It was created with the cooperation of the Edo literati and artists with whom he associated.

The embankment along the Sumida River stretching from around Mokubo-ji Temple to the residence of the Mito Tokugawa family has been called "Bokutei" since the Edo period. Bokutei's cherry trees are said to have originated during the Kyoho era when the 8th shogun, Yoshimune, ordered 100 trees to be planted, and by the late Edo period, it came to be regarded as Edo's premier cherry blossom spot. The grand torii gate below the embankment at Mimeguri-jinja Shrine has long been cherished as a symbol of Bokutei.

Sumida Park occupies the former site of the Mito Tokugawa family's Koume residence. Created as part of the Imperial Capital Reconstruction project following the Great Kanto Earthquake, it opened in 1931 as Japan's first full-scale riverside park. Ushijima-jinja Shrine, the general tutelary shrine of Honjo, was originally located on the north side of the park and was moved to its current location in 1932 due to park construction work.

From a flower garden to a shrine by the embankment, and on to the site of the Mito Tokugawa estate, this course traces the flowers and faith of Mukojima handed down since the Edo period.

Key Highlights

• ​Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens​​: Unlike daimyo (feudal lord) gardens such as Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens and Rikugien Gardens, this is a garden for ordinary people, rich in literati taste. Japanese apricot, bush clover, the seven autumn and spring herbs, and more are planted here, and there are around 230 varieties of herbaceous plants. In September, a bush clover tunnel approximately 30 meters long is formed. A plaque penned by Shokusanjin hangs on the garden gate near the entrance.
• ​Mimeguri-jinja Shrine​​: The shrine's name is said to originate from a legend in which a white fox circled a sacred statue three times before disappearing. From the opposite bank of the Sumida River, the Bokutei embankment, or passing boats, only the upper lintels (shimagi and kasagi) of the grand torii gate below the embankment can be seen. This distinctive view has been depicted in paintings and literature. The grounds also feature a lion statue that once stood in front of the now-closed Ikebukuro branch of the Mitsukoshi department store.
• ​Ushijima-jinja Shrine​​: This shrine is known for its stone nade-ushi (stroking ox), which is believed to heal illnesses when one strokes the part of the ox's body corresponding to one's own ailment. In front of the main sanctuary stands a Miwa torii (triple torii), a rare design nationwide, and a pair of stone sacred oxen face each other deeper within the grounds.
• ​Sumida Park​​: The Sumida City side of Sumida Park features approximately 300 cherry trees. In spring, it becomes a prominent cherry blossom spot, and the Bokutei Cherry Blossom Festival is held during the blossom season. The Japanese garden incorporates remains of the Mito Tokugawa estate, such as its pond, allowing visitors to enjoy views of the stone bridge over the pond and Tokyo Skytree outside the cherry blossom season as well.

Recommended Route and Estimated Time

The estimated time required is about 3 hours. Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens is about a 4-minute walk from Higashi-Mukojima Station on the Tobu Line.

After leaving Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens, head southwest for approximately 1.3 kilometers to reach Mimeguri-jinja Shrine. Both the garden and Mimeguri-jinja Shrine are stops on the Sumida River Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage. Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens enshrines Fukurokuju, while Mimeguri-jinja Shrine enshrines Ebisu and Daikokuten. At Mimeguri-jinja Shrine, be sure to view the grand torii gate below the embankment on the west side of the precinct.

From Mimeguri-jinja Shrine, it is about 290 meters southwest to Ushijima-jinja Shrine. After seeing the nade-ushi and the Miwa torii, head toward Sumida Park.

In Sumida Park, walking northward from the southern lawn plaza leads through a vermilion gate to the Japanese garden pond spreading before you. From the Kogetsudai observation deck on the west side of the pond, you can look out over the Japanese garden and Tokyo Skytree. For the return trip, cross the Sumida River; it is about a 5-minute walk to Asakusa Station.

The cherry blossoms of Sumida Park are a highlight in spring. In September, a walk aimed at seeing the bush clover tunnel at Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens is also recommended.

Summary of the Experience

A garden nurtured by literati, the grand torii gate symbolizing Bokutei, a stone ox polished black from being stroked, and a park opened on the former grounds of a Mito Tokugawa residence. All can be linked on foot in this journey unique to Mukojima. Standing in Sumida Park, imagine the cherry blossoms of Bokutei where the people of Edo gathered for flower viewing.