Naramachi: From Sarusawa Pond to Gango-ji Temple, Machiya Alleys, and Jurin-in Temple

Leaving Kintetsu-Nara Station, head to Sarusawa Pond and proceed south to find Gango-ji Temple and the townscape of Naramachi unfolding before you. This half-day course invites you to gaze up at roof tiles said to be Japan's oldest, stroll along alleys while spotting latticed machiya townhouses and migawari-zaru charm monkeys hung beneath eaves, and conclude at Jurin-in Temple, whose principal image is a stone Jizo Bosatsu.

History and Local Charm

Sarusawa Pond was created in 749 for the hojoe (ritual release of captive animals) of Kofuku-ji Temple. To its south once stood the vast garan (temple compound) of Gango-ji Temple. The predecessor of Gango-ji Temple was Hoko-ji Temple, founded in Asuka by Soga no Umako at the end of the 6th century, which was relocated with the transfer of the capital to Heijo-kyo. It was a grand temple complex adjoining Kofuku-ji Temple, with the two temples lined up north and south, in the eastern Gekyo district of Heijo-kyo, and most of modern Naramachi was once within the precincts of this temple.

By the mid-Heian period, the temple's power declined. In 1451, its Kondo (Golden Hall) and other structures were burned down during an arson attack by a tsuchi-ikki (peasant uprising). A town appears to have developed within the former compound around the end of the Sengoku period. While Naramachi retains an old streetscape, in the context of Nara it is surprisingly a newer town.

Jurin-in Temple is said to have been a sub-temple of Gango-ji Temple and was known in the Kamakura period as a sacred site for Jizo worship. When Gango-ji Temple was registered as part of the UNESCO World Heritage site "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara" in 1998, the surrounding townscape was designated as its buffer zone, becoming a new highlight of Nara under the name "Naramachi."

Major Highlights

• ​Sarusawa Pond​​: A pond in Nara Park with a circumference of 360 meters. The "Moon over Sarusawa Pond" is one of the "Eight Views of the Southern Capital." The scenery of the five-story pagoda reflected on the water's surface alongside willows is also beautiful, though the five-story pagoda of Kofuku-ji Temple is currently covered by a protective construction shelter. The pond retains the legend of the uneme (court lady) from the Tales of Yamato (Yamato Monogatari), and it is handed down that the Uneme-jinja Shrine, a subordinate shrine of Kasuga-taisha Shrine, turned its back overnight.
• ​Gango-ji Temple​​: Only a corner of the monks' quarters remains, with the National Treasure Gokuraku-do (Main Hall) and Zen-shitsu (Zen Room) preserving the appearance of Nara-period monastic quarters. On the roof are tiles said to be the oldest in Japan. Made over 1,400 years ago by Baekje artisans, they originally adorned the roof of Hoko-ji Temple in Asuka. There is also the Futoden, where around 1,500 stone pagodas and stone Buddhas dating from the medieval to Edo periods stand.
• ​Naramachi​​: The machiya townhouses are characterized by narrow frontages and deep interiors, with facades featuring mushiko-mado (clay-grilled windows) and wooden lattices. The "Nara lattice" made of logs is also called "shika-goshi" (deer lattice) to prevent deer visiting the town from being harmed. The red figures hung from the eaves are migawari-zaru (substitute monkeys), believed to take away misfortunes on one's behalf. They are also hung at the entrance of the Koshin-do hall.
• ​Jurin-in Temple​​: The Kamakura-period main hall is a National Treasure and is a low-profile building structured like a residence despite being a temple. It is said to have been built as a raido (worship hall) to venerate the sekibutsu-gan (stone Buddhist niche) housing the principal image of Jizo Bosatsu. The stone niche located behind the main hall is an Important Cultural Property of Japan, with Shaka Nyorai and Miroku Bosatsu carved on either side of Jizo Bosatsu.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 3 hours. The walking distance is approximately 2 kilometers, including walks through the alleys. From Kintetsu-Nara Station, walk about 5 minutes to reach Sarusawa Pond. Stroll around the pond and look for the stone monument of the Kinukake-yanagi (Clothes-Hanging Willow). As Kofuku-ji Temple is about 200 meters to the north, you can easily combine this walk before or after visiting Kofuku-ji Temple or Todai-ji Temple.

Walking about 420 meters south from the pond brings you to Gango-ji Temple. First, compare the roofs of the Gokuraku-do and Zen-shitsu from the south and west sides. Afterwards, moving to the west side of the Futoden to view the roof of the Zen-shitsu is recommended.

Upon leaving the temple, enter the narrow alleys. While looking for machiya lattices and migawari-zaru beneath the eaves, stop by Koshin-do and the Naramachi Koshi-no-Ie (Lattice House), which reproduces a traditional machiya. For getting around the town, visitor centers such as the Naramachi Minami Tourist Information Center "Shikanofune" are helpful.

Walking about 300 meters east from Naramachi leads to Jurin-in Temple. After passing through the South Gate, examine the stone relics on the right before proceeding to the main hall to venerate the stone Buddhist niche behind it. Note that there are days when the inside of the main hall of Jurin-in Temple cannot be viewed, and it also closes for about a month at a time in summer. Please check the notices from Jurin-in Temple before your visit. The walk back to Kintetsu-Nara Station takes about 15 minutes.

Summary of the Experience

Begin walking from the edge of the ritual release pond, gaze up at roof tiles that once adorned an Asuka temple, pass through alleys born within a grand temple compound, and offer a prayer before the stone Buddha behind a calm, low main hall. In a half-day stroll, you can trace the history of an ancient great temple and the town life that grew within it. Try walking along while counting how many migawari-zaru you can spot under the eaves.