Touring the "Sanbi" Area: Takao, Makinoo, and Toganoo

Located northwest of Kyoto along the valley of the Kiyotaki River, Jingo-ji Temple in Takao, Saimyo-ji Temple in Makinoo, and Kozan-ji Temple in Toganoo line the area. This walking course takes you along the river to visit these three ancient temples, collectively referred to as "Sanbi." The Sanbi area is widely known as a famous spot for autumn foliage.

History and Regional Charm

The three areas of Takao, Makinoo, and Toganoo are collectively known as "Sanbi," scenic locations renowned for autumn leaves. All three temples have developed through their connections with Jingo-ji Temple.

Jingo-ji Temple originated as Takaosan-ji Temple, founded by Wake no Kiyomaro, who advanced the construction of Heian-kyo. In the first year of the Tencho era (824), it merged with Shingan-ji Temple to become the present temple. Kukai resided at this temple for 14 years starting in the fourth year of the Daido era (809), bestowing esoteric Buddhist kanjo (initiations) upon Saicho and others. According to temple tradition, Saimyo-ji Temple in Makinoo was founded as a detached cloister of Jingo-ji Temple by Chisen, a nephew and disciple of Kukai. Kozan-ji Temple in Toganoo was also long a detached cloister of Jingo-ji Temple, revived in the first year of the Ken'ei era (1206) in the Kamakura period when Myoe Shonin was granted the land by Retired Emperor Gotoba. Myoe also lived at Saimyo-ji Temple for a period.

Key Highlights

• ​Jingo-ji Temple​​: A Koyasan Shingon sect temple located halfway up Mt. Takao. The standing statue of Yakushi Nyorai, the principal image of the Kondo (Main Hall), is an early Heian period National Treasure. The temple bell, inscribed with the 17th year of the Jogan era (875), is referred to as the "Bell of Three Perfections." The view of autumn foliage overlooking Kin'unkei Gorge from the Jizo-in has been renowned since the Edo period, and visitors have enjoyed "kawarake-nage"—throwing unglazed clay discs into the valley.
• ​Saimyo-ji Temple​​: A temple belonging to the Daikaku-ji Temple branch of Shingon Buddhism, located across the vermilion Shigetsukyo Bridge over the Kiyotaki River and up stone steps. The principal image is a Kamakura-period standing statue of Shaka Nyorai in the Seiryo-ji Temple style, designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. The current hall is said to have been donated during the Genroku era by Keishoin, the biological mother of Tokugawa Tsunayoshi.
• ​Kozan-ji Temple​​: A treasure trove of cultural properties preserving Choju-giga, and one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto designated as a World Heritage site. At Sekisui-in (National Treasure), the only remaining building from the time of Myoe Shonin, visitors can view replicas of Choju-giga. It is also known as the place where tea was first produced in Japan, and features a tea plantation with a stone monument reading "Japan's Oldest Tea Garden."

Recommended Route and Required Time

The entire course takes approximately 5 hours. From Kyoto Station, take the JR Bus Takao-Keihoku Line and get off at "Takao" after about 50 minutes. City Bus Route 8 also runs from Shijo Karasuma. Jingo-ji Temple is about a 20-minute walk from the bus stop. Pay your respects at the Kondo and Daishi-do halls, and enjoy the view from the Jizo-in.

From Jingo-ji Temple, walk about 500 meters northeast to reach Saimyo-ji Temple. Crossing Shigetsukyo Bridge and climbing the stone steps, you can catch glimpses of the Kiyotaki River flowing between the maple trees. Continuing about 500 meters further northeast from Saimyo-ji Temple brings you to Kozan-ji Temple. The rear approach winds up along moss-covered stone walls, while the front approach ascends stone steps through a cedar grove toward the Kondo at the very back.

For the return trip, take the JR Bus Takao-Keihoku Line back to Kyoto Station from the "Toganoo" bus stop, located about a 5-minute walk from Kozan-ji Temple.

Summary of the Experience

Trace the footsteps of Kukai at Jingo-ji Temple, cross Shigetsukyo Bridge to experience the quietude of Saimyo-ji Temple, and admire the mountain ridges from Sekisui-in at Kozan-ji Temple. Enjoy walking along a single path connecting the ancient temples of Sanbi alongside the murmur of the Kiyotaki River.