Tomonoura, the Port for Awaiting Tides, and Sensuijima Island

This walking course explores Tomonoura, a port town situated at the southern tip of the Numakuma Peninsula south of Fukuyama. After visiting the residence of a wealthy Edo-period merchant, the Joyato Stone Lantern that symbolizes the port, and Fukuzen-ji Temple where Korean embassies once lodged, you will take a ferry across to Sensuijima Island lying just offshore.

History and Regional Appeal

Tomonoura is located almost in the center of the Seto Inland Sea, where tidal currents flowing in from the east and west meet and then ebb away. For this reason, it flourished since ancient times as a "port for awaiting tides" where ships waited for the currents to shift. In the "Man'yoshu", Japan's oldest poetry anthology, there are 8 poems written about Tomonoura.

Edo-period port facilities still remain in the harbor today: the Joyato Stone Lantern, stone stepped docking ramps (gangi), a stone breakwater (hato), the site of a tadeba (hull maintenance dock), and the site of a funabansho (port guard station). It is said that Tomonoura is now the only place where all five of these facilities essential to pre-modern ports are preserved together. The townscape surrounding the harbor was selected as a national Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in 2017 (Heisei 29), and in 2018 (Heisei 30) it was designated a Japan Heritage site under the title "Seto Evening Calm Embraces Japan's Foremost Early Modern Port Town." The islands including Sensuijima Island are designated as a national Place of Scenic Beauty as "Tomo Park," and the entire area is part of Setonaikai National Park.

Main Highlights

• ​Tomonoura​​: A port town crowded with merchant residences and townhouses, where whitewashed storehouses, namako walls (tiled walls with raised plaster joints), and mazelike alleys continue. In 1867 (Keio 3), the "Iroha Maru," a ship belonging to the Kaientai led by Sakamoto Ryoma, collided with a Kishu Domain ship and sank; Ryoma and his comrades held negotiations with the Kishu Domain in Tomo. An Edo-period earthen storehouse near the Joyato Stone Lantern is used as an exhibition hall for the Iroha Maru.
• ​Ota Family Residence​​: A residence originally belonging to the Nakamura family, who brewed and sold the Tomo specialty liquor Homeishu, and later handed down to the Ota family. Nine structures, including the main building and the Homeishu brewing storehouses, are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan, conveying the appearance of an Edo-period merchant house and sake brewing. At the end of the Edo period, seven court nobles including Sanjo Sanetomi, who were driven out of Kyoto, stayed here.
• ​Joyato Stone Lantern​​: A large stone lantern erected in 1859 (Ansei 6), boasting one of the largest sizes in Japan among surviving Edo-period harbor lanterns. From its base, stone steps leading down to the water (gangi), built so that cargo could be loaded and unloaded regardless of high or low tide, extend into the sea.
• ​Fukuzen-ji Temple​​: A Shingon sect temple located near the port, used during the Edo period as lodging for the principal envoys of the Korean embassies. The guest hall next to the main hall is called Taichoro Hall; in 1711, the envoy Yi Bang-eon praised the view from here as "Nitto Daiichi Keisho" (the finest scenic view in Japan). From the tatami room, one can take in a panoramic view of Bentenjima Island and Sensuijima Island.
• ​Sensuijima Island​​: An island floating right before Tomonoura, whose name is said to derive from being an "island so beautiful that even hermits (sennin) become intoxicated." It is composed of volcanic rock formed over 90 million years ago, and its distinctive landforms, such as sea caves, are designated as Natural Monuments of Hiroshima Prefecture. Hiking trails leading to the island's three peaks offer sweeping views of the sea, surrounding islands, and Tomonoura.

Recommended Route and Duration

The approximate time required is about 5 hours. Taking the Tomotetsu Bus from the South Exit of JR Fukuyama Station, you will reach Tomonoura in about 30 minutes. The Tomonoura Tourist Information Center stands directly opposite the "Tomonoura" bus stop.

Exploring the townscape on foot is recommended. After passing through the alleys to visit the Ota Family Residence, walk about 70 meters south to the Joyato Stone Lantern. After viewing the gangi steps and breakwater around the lantern, head about 250 meters east-northeast to Fukuzen-ji Temple, where you can look out from the room of Taichoro Hall toward Sensuijima Island, which you will visit next.

After strolling through town, take the municipal ferry "Heisei Iroha Maru" from the Tomo ferry terminal across to Sensuijima Island. The boat ride takes about 5 minutes. As cars cannot be brought onto the island, travel on the island is on foot. Both mountain trails and coastal paths have inclines, so please wear comfortable walking shoes. Choose your hiking course according to your time and stamina. After spending time on the island, check the timetable for the return ferry and head back to Tomonoura.

Experience Summary

Port facilities that once bustled with ships awaiting the tide, a townscape lined with wealthy merchant residences and storehouses, a view praised by Korean envoys, and a green island reached by boat. Upon returning to Tomonoura, be sure to take in the evening view of the Joyato Stone Lantern and harbor. This course allows you to savor a full day in a port town for awaiting tides, on foot and by boat.