Ancient Temples of Nishiyama: Yoshimine-dera Temple, the Temple of Flowers, and Oharano-jinja Shrine (By Car)

After taking in the Yuryu Pine and the panoramic vista of Kyoto's cityscape at Yoshimine-dera Temple, nestled halfway up Kyoto's western mountains (Nishiyama), drive down to Oharano. From there, take a walking tour visiting Shoji-ji Temple—known as the "Hana-no-Tera" (Temple of Flowers) associated with the poet-monk Saigyo—and Oharano-jinja Shrine, revered by Murasaki Shikibu as her ancestral clan shrine. This driving and walking course through the ancient temples of Nishiyama is especially recommended during the spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage seasons.

History and Regional Appeal

In Oharano, at the foot of Mt. Oshio in Nishiyama, Oharano-jinja Shrine was established in 784 (Enryaku 3) when Emperor Kanmu moved the capital to Nagaoka-kyo, enshrining the tutelary deities of the Fujiwara clan from Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara. Members of the Fujiwara clan prayed here that their daughters would become imperial consorts or empresses, and in 1005 (Kanko 2), Empress Shoshi visited the shrine accompanied by her father Fujiwara no Michinaga, Murasaki Shikibu, and others.

Adjacent to it is Shoji-ji Temple. At the end of the Heian period, a warrior of the Hokumen-no-Bushi who served the Retired Emperor Toba entered the Buddhist priesthood here, took the name Saigyo, and built a hermitage. Because of the cherry tree he planted and dearly loved, the temple came to be called the "Hana-no-Tera" (Temple of Flowers). Higher up the mountain, Yoshimine-dera Temple was founded in 1029 (Chogen 2) by the priest Gensan. During the Edo period, many of its current halls were rebuilt with the patronage of Keishoin, the biological mother of the 5th Tokugawa shogun, Tsunayoshi. The footprints of people from various eras—court aristocrats, the poet Saigyo, and the Edo shogunal family—overlap here at the foot of Nishiyama.

Key Highlights

• ​Yoshimine-dera Temple​​: The 20th temple on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage (33 sacred temples). Its Japanese white pine, the "Yuryu Pine" (Gliding Dragon Pine), is over 600 years old and designated as a national natural monument; its main trunk crawls horizontally across the ground, reaching a length of 37 meters today. The temple grounds cover 30,000 tsubo as a stroll-style garden, adorned in spring with the weeping cherry said to have been planted by Keishoin, from mid-June to early July with hydrangeas, and in autumn with vibrant leaves. A sweeping view of Kyoto's cityscape can be enjoyed from in front of the Yakushi-do Hall.
• ​Shoji-ji Temple (Hana-no-Tera)​​: The Saigyo-zakura standing beside the bell tower is the third generation descended from the tree planted by Saigyo. The temple grounds contain about 100 cherry trees, with the majority being Yoshino cherry trees that typically reach full bloom in early April. Roughly the same number of maples grow naturally, coloring the grounds around mid-November. The site also features the Nio-mon Gate, the temple's oldest structure that escaped destruction during the Onin War, and the Kagami-ishi Stone, which Saigyo is said to have used as a mirror when shaving his head.
• ​Oharano-jinja Shrine​​: Known as "Kyo-Kasuga", this shrine features statues of a stag and a doe guarding the front of the main hall instead of traditional komainu (guardian lion-dogs). Beside Koisawa Pond, modeled after Sarusawa Pond in Nara, stands the Sengan-zakura, an "elusive cherry tree" whose full bloom lasts only about three days. The approach stretching approximately 200 meters from the first torii gate to the third torii gate forms a vibrant tunnel of autumn leaves in the fall.

Recommended Route and Duration

The entire tour takes about 5 hours. Yoshimine-dera Temple is about a 12-minute drive from the Oharano Interchange on the Kyoto Jukan Expressway, and a parking lot exclusively for visitors is located in front of the main mountain gate (Sanmon). In winter from December to March, roads may freeze or accumulate snow depending on the weather, so drivers without winter tires should exercise caution. The temple grounds spread across the mountain slope with a succession of stone stairs and inclines. Following the route around the grounds takes about 30 to 40 minutes, so wear comfortable walking shoes and allow plenty of time for your visit.

From Yoshimine-dera Temple, drive down the mountain toward Oharano. Oharano-jinja Shrine has parking available, and Shoji-ji Temple (Hana-no-Tera) is located about 400 meters west of Oharano-jinja Shrine, allowing visitors to tour both on foot. Shoji-ji Temple has periods when it is closed to visitors, so please check its official notices before departing.

As the scheduled bus service to Yoshimine-dera Temple was discontinued in May 2025 (Reiwa 7), visitors without a car should take a taxi from JR Mukomachi Station to Yoshimine-dera Temple (about 20 minutes). From Minamikasuga-cho, a 7- to 8-minute walk from Oharano-jinja Shrine, Hankyu buses run to JR Mukomachi Station and Hankyu Higashi-Muko Station.

Summary of the Experience

Expand your horizon with Yoshimine-dera Temple's Yuryu Pine and Kyoto views, reflect on Saigyo's cherry blossoms at Shoji-ji Temple, and recall the ancient courtly era with the deer statues and foliage-covered approach of Oharano-jinja Shrine. Savor the tranquil ancient temples and shrine of Nishiyama along with the seasonal flowers.