Mt. Iimori: From Nozaki Kannon Temple to Iimoriyama Castle and Shijonawate-jinja Shrine

This hiking course takes you from Nozaki Station on the JR Gakkentoshi Line to visit Nozaki Kannon Temple, climbs Mt. Iimori behind the temple to walk through the ruins of Iimoriyama Castle from the Sengoku period, and descends to Shijonawate-jinja Shrine, which enshrines Kusunoki Masatsura, before heading toward Shijonawate Station. Around a single mountain, you can encounter the history of multiple eras: a mountain temple steeped in Nara period lore, a castle of a Sengoku ruler, and a shrine dedicated to a commander of the Nanboku-cho period.

History and Local Charm

Mt. Iimori is a mountain in the Ikoma mountain range, straddling Daito City and Shijonawate City, with an elevation of approximately 314 meters.

At the southwestern foot lies Nozaki Kannon Temple, formally known as Fukujusan Jigen-ji Temple, a Zen temple of the Soto school. It is said to have originated when Gyoki carved and enshrined an Eleven-Headed Kannon during the Tenpyo-shoho era. The "Nozaki Mairi" pilgrimage, held every year from May 1 to 8, is widely known through the rakugo performance "Nozaki Mairi" and the song "Nozaki Kouta" sung by Shoji Taro.

Across the summit area remain the ruins of Iimoriyama Castle, a mountain castle from the Sengoku period. In 1560 (Eiroku 3), Miyoshi Nagayoshi relocated his base to this castle, ruled the Gokinai (five capital provinces) and the Shikoku region, and influenced the politics of the Muromachi shogunate. In recent years, Nagayoshi has been recognized as a ruler who preceded Oda Nobunaga in holding national power. The castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2021 (Reiwa 3).

At the northwestern foot, Shijonawate-jinja Shrine enshrines Kusunoki Masatsura, who fell in the Battle of Shijonawate during the Nanboku-cho period, as its principal deity. Masatsura was the eldest son and heir of Kusunoki Masashige, and he is still affectionately revered by many as "Shonanko."

Highlights

• ​Nozaki Kannon Temple​​: The principal image, an Eleven-Headed Kannon, is also called "Inemuri Kannon" (the Napping Kannon) because its half-closed, gentle eyes look as though it is asleep. It is usually behind a bamboo curtain, but visitors can pray directly before it during Nozaki Mairi. The grounds offer a panoramic view, looking past the cluster of high-rises in Osaka City, and under favorable conditions, Awaji Island may be visible.
• ​Iimoriyama Castle​​: The castle grounds span approximately 700 meters north to south and 400 meters east to west, boasting one of the largest scales in western Japan. As a castle that made extensive use of stone walls, it is an invaluable predecessor to Oda Nobunaga's Azuchi Castle; a 20-meter-long stone wall remains along the hiking path below the eastern side of the main bailey. Other notable features include an earthen bridge remaining at the dry moat (horikiri) between the Senjojiki Enclosure and the Takayagura Enclosure, as well as the Gotaizuka Enclosure, where Nagayoshi's body is said to have been temporarily interred. A bronze statue of Kusunoki Masatsura stands in the Takayagura Enclosure, and the castle grounds overlook the Osaka Plain all the way to the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge.
• ​Shijonawate-jinja Shrine​​: The main sanctuary (honden) remains as it was when constructed in 1890 (Meiji 23). The torii gate in front of the main sanctuary was granted by Ise Jingu Shrine in 1990 (Heisei 2) on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the shrine's enshrinement. The shrine also features "prayer climbing," in which visitors write their wishes on a wooden prayer plaque, pray at the main sanctuary, and display the plaque before the statue of Masatsura at the mountain summit.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 5 hours. From the East Exit of Nozaki Station on the JR Gakkentoshi Line, walk approximately 600 meters through the approach shopping street and climb about 150 stone steps to reach the grounds of Nozaki Kannon Temple. It takes about 12 minutes on foot from the station.

Nozaki Kannon Temple is also the trailhead for the Mt. Iimori hiking trail. After paying your respects, head for the summit along the hiking trail. The ascent from Nozaki Station to the summit takes around 90 minutes. Although the distance is short, it is quite a strenuous mountain path, so please wear comfortable shoes suitable for trail walking. There are no vending machines on the mountain, so it is advisable to bring an ample supply of water.

After touring the castle ruins on the summit area—including the stone walls, moats, and the bronze statue at the Takayagura Enclosure—descend to Shijonawate-jinja Shrine at the northwestern foot. The roughly 1-kilometer stretch between the summit and Shijonawate-jinja Shrine has a rather steep gradient, so watch your footing and enjoy the views toward Osaka while resting on the benches located here and there. Shijonawate-jinja Shrine offers an open view and is a pleasant spot for a break. After paying your respects, it takes about 20 minutes to walk west from the shrine to Shijonawate Station on the JR Gakkentoshi Line. At the end of the approach, proceeding straight west for about 1 kilometer, lies the grave of Masatsura, the Shonanko Grave Site.

Alternatively, you can also climb from Shijonawate Station to the summit via Shijonawate-jinja Shrine. The ascent from Shijonawate Station takes about 100 minutes.

Experience Summary

Pay your respects to the Napping Kannon at a mountain temple at the foot, savor the stone walls of the Sengoku ruler Miyoshi Nagayoshi's castle and the view across the Kinai region at the summit, and visit the shrine of Shonanko on the opposite foot of the mountain. Enjoy a day crossing Mt. Iimori on foot, where the stories of multiple eras overlap.