Cycling Fujiwara-kyo and the Yamato Sanzan Mountains: From Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site to Fujiwara Palace Site and Mt. Amanokagu

Rent a bicycle at Kintetsu Kashiharajingu-mae Station and ride from Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site, the ruins of a temple from the Fujiwara-kyo period, toward Fujiwara Palace Site, which once stood at the center of the ancient capital. After enjoying views of the Yamato Sanzan Mountains from the palace grounds, this course takes you up Mt. Amanokagu, long revered as the most sacred of the three mountains.

History and Regional Charm

Fujiwara-kyo was an ancient capital established in the 8th year of Empress Jito's reign (694), when Empress Jito relocated the court from Asuka Kiyomihara Palace. It lasted for 16 years until the capital moved to Heijo-kyo in the 3rd year of Wado (710). Modeled after Chinese capitals, it adopted the grid-pattern jobo system and is recognized as Japan's first full-scale capital city. At its heart stood Fujiwara Palace, which housed the Daigokuden (Great Hall of State) and Chodoin for ceremonies and governance, along with the Dairi (imperial residential quarters).

Fujiwara Palace Site is surrounded by the Yamato Sanzan Mountains: Mt. Unebi, Mt. Miminashi, and Mt. Amanokagu. These three mountains were celebrated in numerous poems in the Man'yoshu and other works and were designated as Places of Scenic Beauty in 2005 (Heisei 17). The panoramic view of the three mountain ridges from the palace site has also been designated an "Important Viewing Landscape."

Near Fujiwara Palace, the state temple Yakushi-ji Temple was built. Construction was initiated by Emperor Tenmu to pray for the recovery of his consort, who later became Empress Jito, from an illness. Following the transfer of the capital to Heijo-kyo, Yakushi-ji Temple was also moved from Fujiwara-kyo to Nishinokyo in Nara City. Because of this, the former temple in Fujiwara-kyo is called "Motoyakushi-ji," meaning the original Yakushi-ji. Both Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site and Fujiwara Palace Site are component assets of the World Heritage site "Ancient Capitals of Asuka and Fujiwara."

Key Highlights

• ​Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site​​: In the midst of rural fields, the foundation platforms and base stones of the Kondo (Main Hall) and the East and West Pagodas remain. It followed the "Yakushi-ji style" temple layout with two pagodas standing south of the main hall to the east and west, an arrangement that was carried over to Yakushi-ji Temple in Heijo-kyo. The base stones of the East Pagoda are preserved from that time. The surrounding rice paddies were once well known for water hyacinths, though planting is suspended in some years.
• ​Fujiwara Palace Site​​: On the grounds of the former Daigokuden, the palace center, an earthen platform called Omiya Dodan remains. The palace site sits among the Yamato Sanzan Mountains, looking toward Mt. Miminashi to the north, Mt. Amanokagu to the east, and Mt. Unebi slightly further away to the southwest. Another highlight is the carpet of seasonal flowers that transforms the landscape: canola blossoms in spring, lotus in summer, and cosmos in autumn.
• ​Mt. Amanokagu​​: With an elevation of 152.4 meters, it gives a stronger impression of a low hill than a mountain. It carries the prefix "Ama-no" (heavenly) because legend holds that it descended from heaven, and it is regarded as a sacred site worshipped since the period of the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki. At the summit stands Kuninotokotachi Shrine, offering vistas of Mt. Unebi, Fujiwara Palace Site, and Mt. Nijo. Amanoiwato Shrine is located at the southern foot, while Amanokaguyama Shrine stands at the northern foot.

Recommended Route and Estimated Time

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. Bicycles can be rented at the Asuka Rental Cycle office located at Kintetsu Kashiharajingu-mae Station. Offices are also located in front of Asuka Station, near Kame-ishi Stone, and by Ishibutai, allowing you to return the bicycle to a different location from where you rented it.

First, head to Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site, located east of Unebigoryomae Station. Mt. Unebi can be seen to the west, so take in the view of the foundation stones with the mountain as a backdrop. From there, ride about 1.2 kilometers north-northeast to reach Fujiwara Palace Site. From the earthen platform of the former Daigokuden, observe the positions of the three peaks: Mt. Miminashi to the north, Mt. Amanokagu to the east, and Mt. Unebi to the southwest. Looking toward Mt. Amanokagu, no concrete buildings enter the view. Nearby, at the Kashihara City Fujiwara-kyo Exhibition Hall, you can view a 1:1,000 scale model reconstructing Fujiwara-kyo. On the east side of Daigo Pond within the palace site stands a stone monument inscribed with Empress Jito's poem ("Spring has passed, and summer seems to have come"), set against the backdrop of Mt. Amanokagu.

From Fujiwara Palace Site, travel about 1.2 kilometers east-southeast to Mt. Amanokagu. The mountain trail is well maintained, taking about 20 minutes one way from the trailhead to the summit. From the summit, look out over Fujiwara Palace Site, where you were a little earlier, and Mt. Unebi. After descending, head to an office to return your bicycle.

If exploring on foot, it is about a 9-minute walk east from Kintetsu Unebigoryomae Station to Motoyakushi-ji Temple Site. On the way back, it takes about 23 minutes on foot from Mt. Amanokagu to JR Kaguyama Station.

Summary of the Experience

From temple grounds where stone foundations remain, to the heart of an ancient capital, and then to the summit of the mountain considered the most sacred of the three peaks. Cycling across the plains framed by the Yamato Sanzan Mountains allows you to physically feel the expanse of Fujiwara-kyo during this half-day journey. Standing before the monument at the palace site with Mt. Amanokagu behind you, recall Empress Jito's poem: "Spring has passed, and summer seems to have come; white robes are spread to dry on heavenly Mt. Amanokagu."