Walking Through Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, Kamishichiken, and Nishijin

This walking tour through Nishijin takes you to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, through the Kamishichiken geisha district along its east approach, and on to Nishijin Textile Center and Seimei-jinja Shrine.

History and Local Charm

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is the head shrine of all Tenmangu and Tenjin shrines nationwide dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane. It is said to have originated in the first year of the Tenryaku era (947), when Michizane was enshrined in the Kitano area northwest of Heian-kyo, and has long been affectionately known as "Kitano's Tenjin-sama." Kamishichiken, spreading out along its east approach, is regarded as the oldest among the surviving geisha districts (hanamachi) in Kyoto, lined with ochaya (teahouses). It is handed down that when Toyotomi Hideyoshi hosted the Grand Kitano Tea Ceremony in Tensho 15 (1587), he was greatly pleased with the mitarashi dango (sweet dumplings) presented by the teahouses, and the five-dumpling crest of the Kamishichiken geisha district is said to be derived from these dumplings. Kamishichiken took shape as a gate town (monzen-machi) of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine and Senbon Shakado Temple, and the area around it is a historic urban district where Nishijin-ori Brocade businesses are concentrated. In the Muromachi period during the Onin War, Yamana Sozen, commander of the Western Army, set up his camp in this area; because artisans returned after the war to resume weaving, the whole area came to be called "Nishijin" (Western Camp). A short walk south on Horikawa-dori Street brings you to Seimei-jinja Shrine, which enshrines the Heian-period onmyoji (yin-yang diviner), Abe no Seimei, on the former site of his residence.

Major Highlights

• ​Kitano Tenmangu Shrine​​: Highlights include the National Treasure main sanctuary (honden) built by Toyotomi Hideyori in Keicho 12 (1607) and the Sankomon Gate, named after the carvings of the sun, moon, and stars. The grounds feature about 1,500 plum trees of 50 varieties associated with Michizane, and on the west side lies a famed autumn foliage spot where part of the Odoi Earthworks built by Hideyoshi still remains.
• ​Kamishichiken​​: Ochaya teahouses line the east approach leading from the Kamishichiken intersection on Imadegawa-dori Street toward Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. At the Kamishichiken Kaburenjo theater, where the "Kitano Odori" dance in spring and the "Kotobuki-kai" in autumn are held, general visitors can also watch performances by geiko and maiko.
• ​Nishijin Textile Center​​: Permanent exhibitions introduce Nishijin-ori Brocade and historical materials, alongside demonstrations of traditional techniques by craftspeople. Nishijin-ori, a yarn-dyed patterned textile, was designated as a national traditional craft in Showa 51 (1976).
• ​Seimei-jinja Shrine​​: The plaque on the Ichino-torii (first gate) displays the shrine crest "Seimei Kikyo," also called the pentagram. Inside the grounds are the Seimei Well, said to have been brought forth by Seimei through spiritual power, and the reconstructed "Ichijo Modoribashi Bridge," incorporating the baluster posts of the previous bridge.

Suggested Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is about a 5-minute walk from Kitano-Hakubaicho Station on the Keifuku Electric Railroad. After paying your respects, head about 180 meters east to Kamishichiken and stroll down the east approach lined with teahouses. From Kamishichiken, Nishijin Textile Center is about 1.3 kilometers to the east. Nishijin Textile Center is located right next to the "Horikawa Imadegawa" city bus stop, and from there it is about 130 meters south to Seimei-jinja Shrine. For the return trip, you can use the "Ichijo Modoribashi / Seimei-jinja-mae" city bus stop or Imadegawa Station on the Karasuma Subway Line, about a 12-minute walk away. At Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, early-blooming plum blossoms begin after New Year's and continue blooming in succession until around late March. The "Hana no Niwa" plum grove is typically open to the public from early February to late March, and during the Baikasai Plum Blossom Festival on February 25, the anniversary of Michizane's death, an open-air tea ceremony served by the entire Kamishichiken district is held. On the 25th of every month, known as "Tenjin-san's Day," stalls line the approach to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine.

Summary of the Experience

Visit Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, which enshrines the god of learning, walk along the geisha district street free of utility poles, and head to Nishijin, the town of textiles. Experience the craftsmanship of Nishijin-ori Brocade and visit the shrine of the onmyoji, tracing on foot the history of Kyoto stretching from Kitano to Horikawa.