From Jiyugaoka to Kuhonbutsu, Todoroki Valley, and The Gotoh Museum in Kaminoge
Setagaya City, Tokyo
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From Jiyugaoka Station, stop by La Vita Jiyugaoka, which recreates the streetscape of Venice, and walk to Kuhonbutsu Joshin-ji Temple, which enshrines nine Amida Nyorai statues. Near Todoroki Station, descend into Todoroki Valley to walk along the promenade by the Yazawa River, and finish the course at The Gotoh Museum in Kaminoge, enjoying Japanese and East Asian ancient art along with its garden.
History and Local Charm
Jiyugaoka is also said to be a town of sweets today. Mont-Blanc, a venerable Western confectionery shop founded in 1933 (Showa 8), has been beloved in this town since early Showa, an era when Western pastries were rare. In a corner of its residential area lies La Vita Jiyugaoka, recreating the streetscape of Venice, the city of water.
Walking west from Jiyugaoka, you will find a temple founded during the Edo period. Kuhonbutsu Joshin-ji Temple is a Jodo sect temple founded in 1678 (Enpo 6) by Priest Kaseki, who was granted the land where Okusawa Castle once stood. The earthen embankments surrounding the temple grounds are remnants of Okusawa Castle's earthworks. The layout of the grounds is based on the Jodo sect scripture Kanmuryoju-kyo (Contemplation Sutra), and nine Amida Nyorai statues are enshrined in association with the nine grades of rebirth into the Pure Land paradise.
Further along, Todoroki Valley is a valley formed where the Yazawa River eroded the southern edge of the Musashino Plateau. Extending for about 1 kilometer, it is considered the only gorge in Tokyo's 23 wards and is designated as a Place of Scenic Beauty by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Along the cliffs of the gorge, horizontal cave tombs (tunnel tombs) constructed between the late Kofun period and the Nara period have been discovered.
Finally, The Gotoh Museum was opened in 1960 (Showa 35) based on ancient art collected by Gotoh Keita, who laid the foundation of the Tokyu Group. In the garden, the mixed forest of Musashino slopes steeply toward the Tama River. This course offers a day of walking through the green valley and slopes after exploring streetscapes and a temple.
Key Highlights
- La Vita Jiyugaoka: A commercial facility also called the "Venice of Jiyugaoka." "La Vita" means "life" in Italian. Brick Western-style buildings and gray cobblestones create the streetscape, and an authentic gondola floats in the canal on the premises. However, riding the gondola is not permitted. A bridge spans the canal, and framing the bridge in photos is said to make it easy to include the clock tower in the background.
- Kuhonbutsu Joshin-ji Temple: Three halls stand opposite the main hall, each enshrining three Amida Nyorai statues. All nine statues measure around 2.8 meters in height and are designated Cultural Properties of Tokyo. Because each statue displays a different hand gesture (mudra), try comparing them as you visit the three halls in order. The upper level of the Niomon Gate, built in 1793 (Kansei 5), is called "Shiun-ro." The "Omenkaburi" ritual, where people wearing bodhisattva masks parade across a bridge, is designated an Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Tokyo.
- Todoroki Valley Park: At the entrance to the valley stands Golf Bridge, a red arch bridge constructed in 1961 (Showa 36). Along the valley, there are places where geological cross-sections showing the formation of the Musashino Plateau are clearly visible, with abundant water springing from between the strata. Todoroki Valley Tunnel Tomb No. 3, discovered in 1973 (Showa 48), is a Historic Site designated by Tokyo. Further downstream, you will find a Japanese garden with a shoin (study hall), and Todoroki Fudoson Temple where the Fudo Waterfall cascades.
- The Gotoh Museum: Holds approximately 5,000 items, including 5 National Treasures and 50 Important Cultural Properties. Sections covering three chapters of the National Treasure "Tale of Genji Emaki" (The Tale of Genji Illustrated Scrolls) are typically displayed for about one week in spring each year. The main building, designed by architect Yoshida Isoya, incorporates shinden-zukuri architectural motifs throughout and is a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property. The garden has an elevation difference of up to 35 meters, dotted with stone Buddha statues such as Dainichi Nyorai and Roku Jizo (Six Jizo).
Recommended Route and Duration
The estimated time required is about 5 hours. From the front exit of Jiyugaoka Station, walk about 5 minutes to reach La Vita Jiyugaoka. First stand before the canal to view the gondola and bridge, then stroll into the cobblestone back alleys. As shops operate within the premises, take care not to block walkways or shop entrances when taking photos.
Kuhonbutsu Joshin-ji Temple is located about 720 meters west-southwest in a straight line from La Vita Jiyugaoka. Follow the approach road starting in front of Kuhonbutsu Station, pass through the Somon Gate, and beyond the Niomon Gate you will find the main hall, Ryugoden. After paying respects at the main hall, proceed to the three halls lined up opposite.
Take the Tokyu Oimachi Line from Kuhonbutsu Station and get off at Todoroki Station; Todoroki Valley Park is about a 3-minute walk away. As Todoroki Valley Park is about 1.4 kilometers west-southwest in a straight line from Kuhonbutsu Joshin-ji Temple, you can also walk. Descend the stairs at the foot of Golf Bridge, and the walking path extends along the Yazawa River. Following the path downstream allows you to visit Tunnel Tomb No. 3, the Japanese garden and shoin, and Todoroki Fudoson Temple with Fudo Waterfall. The paths are narrow, with some unrailed or uneven sections, so please share the path and walk carefully. Because some areas lack nighttime lighting, please finish walking through the valley before dark. In the event of heavy rain, river water levels can rise suddenly, so stay away from the river.
The Gotoh Museum is about 1.2 kilometers northwest in a straight line from Todoroki Valley Park. It is about a 5-minute walk from Kaminoge Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line. Viewing the exhibition galleries takes about 1 hour on average. The garden has steep slopes, steps, and a pond, so watch your step as you explore.
Summary of the Experience
A gondola floating on a canal, nine Amida Nyorai statues lined up in Edo-period halls, a walking path through a valley along the flow of the Yazawa River, and a garden of mixed woodland sloping down toward the Tama River. From townscape to temple, valley, and art museum, the scenery shifts gradually. Conclude your day at The Gotoh Museum by engaging with ancient art pieces assembled over a lifetime by Gotoh Keita.