Setoda on Ikuchijima Island, Shimanami Kaido

This course takes you by passenger ferry from Onomichi Port to Setoda Port on Ikuchijima Island, one of the islands along the Shimanami Kaido. Stroll on foot through nearby Kojo-ji Temple, the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art, Kosanji Temple, and the Hill of Hope (Miraishin-no-Oka), before finishing with a bicycle ride to Setoda Sunset Beach on the island's western coast.

History and Local Charm

Overlooking Setoda Port on Mount Choonzan stands Kojo-ji Temple, founded in the early Muromachi period by the Ikuchi clan who ruled the island. Its three-story pagoda dating back to 1432 (Eikyo 4) still survives today. In the Showa period, the industrialist Kosanji Kozo devoted over 30 years to building the halls and pagodas of Kosanji Temple as an expression of gratitude to his mother. In 1997 (Heisei 9), the museum dedicated to Setoda-born Japanese painter Hirayama Ikuo opened in his hometown.

A National Treasure pagoda from the Muromachi period, a temple from the Showa period, and the painter's hometown—attractions from distinct eras are gathered within walking distance of the port. On the western side of the island lies Setoda Sunset Beach with its white sand shore, offering views of the sun setting over the Seto Inland Sea.

Main Highlights

• ​Kojo-ji Temple​​: A Soto Zen temple located on Mount Choonzan overlooking Setoda Port. The three-story pagoda on the hill is a National Treasure standing approximately 19 meters high, built in 1432 (Eikyo 4), featuring rich, vibrant colors preserved inside its vermilion exterior.
• ​Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art​​: A museum showcasing the works of Setoda-born Japanese-style painter Hirayama Ikuo. Along with works from his childhood onward, it presents the watercolor series "53 Stations of the Shimanami Kaido," created for the opening of the Shimanami Kaido. Its Japanese garden, evoking the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea, can be viewed from inside the museum.
• ​Kosanji Temple​​: A temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha sect built by Kosanji Kozo for his mother, also referred to as the "Mother's Temple." Featuring the Koyo-mon Gate modeled after the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, the temple grounds showcase halls and pagodas modeled after historic Japanese masterpieces, 15 of which are Registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan. The entire precinct is open to the public as the Kosanji Museum.
• ​Hill of Hope (Miraishin-no-Oka)​​: A white marble garden spanning approximately 5,000 square meters located inside the Kosanji Museum. Designed by sculptor Kuetani Itto, it is crafted from marble quarried in Carrara, Italy.
• ​Setoda Sunset Beach​​: A seaside park featuring a white sandy beach stretching approximately 800 meters, selected as one of "Japan's 88 Best Bathing Beaches." True to its name, it is known for the beauty of the sun sinking into the sea.

Recommended Route and Estimated Time

The estimated time required is around 6 hours. Onomichi Port is about a 3-minute walk from JR Onomichi Station. After an approximately 40-minute boat ride to Setoda Port, first walk about 10 minutes to Kojo-ji Temple. As there is an uphill climb, comfortable walking shoes are recommended. After viewing the three-story pagoda, descend the slope and head about 350 meters east-southeast to the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art.

From the museum, walking about 190 meters south brings you to Kosanji Temple. The grounds are divided into three tiers: lower, middle, and upper. Ascending gradually from the bottom leads you finally to the Hill of Hope (Miraishin-no-Oka). The Hill of Hope can be visited using the admission ticket for the Kosanji Museum.

Bicycles can be rented at the Setoda Town Tourist Information Center, about a 4-minute walk from the front of Kosanji Temple. Among the islands of the Shimanami Kaido, Ikuchijima Island has relatively flat roads, making it easy to ride even for those unaccustomed to cycling. Setoda Sunset Beach is located about 3 kilometers south-southwest of Kosanji Temple. Taking a short detour to the Lemon Valley Observation Deck, where you can photograph Tatara Bridge framed by lemon trees, is also recommended.

The beach also has a rental bicycle station, allowing you to return your bike and take a bus back to Setoda Port. In that case, taking the eastbound bus (Higashimawari) will get you there faster. From Setoda Port, take the passenger boat back to Onomichi Port. If you wish to watch the sunset, be sure to check the timetable of the return boat in advance.

Summary of the Experience

Cross to the island by boat, and encounter a National Treasure Muromachi pagoda, a temple born from maternal devotion, a hill of white marble, and a beach at dusk. Take your time enjoying a day in Setoda on foot and by bicycle.