Autumn in Takagamine: Koetsu-ji Temple, Genko-an Temple, and Josho-ji Temple

Starting from the "Takagamine Genkoan-mae" bus stop in Takagamine, in the northern part of Kyoto City, this walking course visits three temples: Koetsu-ji Temple, Genko-an Temple, and Josho-ji Temple. The three temples are clustered within a span of about 300 meters, and in autumn, each of their grounds is colored with autumn foliage.

History and Local Charm

Takagamine is a quiet mountainous area located in Kita Ward, Kyoto City. In 1615 (the first year of the Genna era), Hon'ami Koetsu, a cultural figure of the early Edo period, was granted this land by Tokugawa Ieyasu and moved here with his family and craftsmen to build an artist community. Hon'ami Koetsu was an expert in sword appraisal and also excelled in calligraphy, ceramics, painting, and maki-e lacquerware.

Koetsu-ji Temple began as a thatched hut and Hokke Daimokudo prayer hall built here by Hon'ami Koetsu, and was converted into a temple after his death. Josho-ji Temple originated in 1616 (the second year of the Genna era), the year after the relocation, when Hon'ami Koetsu and his son Kosa built a sanctuary called "Hokke no Chinjo" and dedicated it to Nichikan Shonin. Both temples carry down the remnants of the community Hon'ami Koetsu established to the present day.

On the other hand, the history of Genko-an Temple is even older, having been founded in 1346 (the second year of the Jowa era) by Tetto Kokushi, the second-generation abbot of Daitoku-ji Temple. Since its revival by Zen master Manzan Dohaku in 1694 (the seventh year of the Genroku era), it has been a temple of the Soto Zen sect. One of the interesting aspects of Takagamine is that these three temples with different origins stand right next to one another.

Key Highlights

• ​Koetsu-ji Temple​​: The bamboo fence surrounding the Taikyo-an tea house is known as the "Koetsu-gaki" fence; built with split bamboo woven into diamond shapes, the fence slopes down in a gentle curve. In autumn, the approach at the entrance is dyed in autumn colors, creating an atmospheric view alongside the stone pavement. From the garden, you can see Mount Takagamine, Mount Washigamine, and the distant Thirty-Six Peaks of Higashiyama.
• ​Genko-an Temple​​: The main hall features the round "Window of Enlightenment" and the square "Window of Delusion." The ceiling of the main hall is known as the "blood ceiling," said to be an architectural remnant of Fushimi Castle. The garden behind the main hall uses the Kitayama mountains as borrowed scenery, and during the autumn foliage season its atmosphere deepens, drawing many visitors.
• ​Josho-ji Temple​​: Visitors are greeted by the vermilion "Yoshino Gate," donated by the second Yoshino Tayu. In autumn, the Japanese maples along the approach to the main hall and around the tea house turn shades of red and yellow, and the view created by the Yoshino Gate and autumn leaves is the temple's signature autumn sight. The colorful autumn leaves scattered across the moss garden are also a highlight.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 3 hours. To reach Takagamine, from Kitaoji Station on the Karasuma Subway Line, take Kyoto City Bus Route Kita 1 bound for Gentaku, or from Shijo Omiya take Kyoto City Bus Route 6 bound for Gentaku, and get off at "Takagamine Genkoan-mae." From Kyoto Station, either take the subway to Kitaoji Station and transfer to Route Kita 1, or take Route 6 directly. Because it becomes crowded during the autumn foliage season, Genko-an Temple asks visitors to refrain from arriving by car, so please visit by bus.

From the bus stop, walk about 3 minutes to visit Koetsu-ji Temple first. After enjoying the autumn foliage along the approach, the Koetsu-gaki fence, and the mountain views, walk about 200 meters northeast to Genko-an Temple. After viewing the two windows, the blood ceiling, and the garden behind the main hall, walk about 100 meters east to Josho-ji Temple. Pass through the Yoshino Gate, take in the autumn foliage on the grounds, and then it is about a 2 to 3-minute walk back to the bus stop.

The autumn leaves at Josho-ji Temple typically begin to turn color around early November and stay at their best until around early December. In addition, Koetsu-ji Temple announces that it is closed to visitors from November 10 to 13, so please be mindful of the dates if you visit during the autumn foliage period. All three temples are close to each other, so take your time and enjoy each temple's grounds at a relaxed pace.

Experience Summary

In Takagamine, where Hon'ami Koetsu opened an artist community, two temples connected to him and an even older Zen temple stand side by side, enveloped in autumn colors. Stone-paved approaches, two symbolic windows, and the vermilion Yoshino Gate—enjoy a moment unique to Takagamine, where autumn scenery with varied charms is packed into a compact, walkable area.