Hino, the Hometown of the Shinsengumi: From Hino-juku Honjin to the Shinsengumi Hometown History Museum and Takahata Fudoson Temple
Hino, Tokyo
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History and Regional Appeal
Hino is the birthplace of Shinsengumi members Hijikata Toshizo and Inoue Genzaburo.
During the Edo period, Hino flourished as Hino-juku, a post town along the Koshu Dochu, one of the five major highways. Directly controlled by the shogunate, it was a prosperous agricultural village referred to as the granary of Tama, where swordsmanship also thrived. Sato Hikogoro, the village head of Hino, was both the brother-in-law and cousin of Hijikata Toshizo. At the Tennen Rishin-ryu dojo opened by Hikogoro at his residence, swordsmen such as Kondo Isami, Okita Soji, and Yamanami Keisuke visited and trained diligently alongside the local youth of Hino. The young men who spent their youth here eventually went up to Kyoto, making the name of the Shinsengumi resound throughout the land.
Travel from Hino-juku Honjin, which was Hikogoro's residence, to the museum that traces the Shinsengumi from its birth to its end. Finally, visit Takahata Fudoson Temple, the family temple of Hijikata Toshizo. This course connects the birthplace of the Shinsengumi with the subsequent paths taken by its members.
Key Highlights
- Hino-juku Honjin: Completed in 1864, this residence of Sato Hikogoro is the only surviving honjin (official inn) building from the Edo period in Tokyo. Facing the highway, the entrance features an irimoya-style (hip-and-gable) roof and a shikidai (stepped entryway). In the room where Hijikata Toshizo is said to have taken naps, fusuma sliding doors from the time of construction still remain.
- Shinsengumi Hometown History Museum: A Hino municipal exhibition facility opened in 2005. The permanent exhibition, "The Shinsengumi, Shinchogumi, and Hino," follows the overall history from the Shinsengumi's birth to its end, primarily through literature and historical records. Displayed items include Sato Hikogoro's diary and "Zoyu Danwa," the memoirs of Soma Tonomo (Kazue), the last commander of the Shinsengumi.
- Takahata Fudoson Temple: Officially named Takahatasan Myooin Kongo-ji Temple, it is a special head temple of the Chisan sect of Shingon Buddhism. Since ancient times, it has been counted as one of the three great Fudo temples of the Kanto region. The Dainichi-do Hall houses Toshizo's memorial tablet, and the temple grounds feature a bronze statue of Toshizo and the "Junsetsu Ryoyu-no-Hi Monument" honoring Kondo Isami and Toshizo. Shinsengumi materials, such as letters written by Toshizo, are also displayed in the Okuden Hall.
Recommended Route and Duration
The estimated time required is about 5 hours. Hino-juku Honjin is a 12-minute walk from Hino Station on the JR Chuo Line. Facing the parking lot stands a monument marking the site of Sato's Tennen Rishin-ryu dojo. The honjin serves as an annex to the museum, and a shared admission ticket is available.
From the honjin to the museum, the distance is about 610 meters in a straight line to the south-southwest. Walking from Hino Station to the museum involves a long uphill slope. On Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays, you can request volunteer guides inside the museum to explain the exhibits.
From the museum to Takahata Fudoson Temple, it is about 1.8 kilometers in a straight line to the southeast. If taking a bus, walk 5 minutes from the museum to the "Hino Nanasho Iriguchi" stop and board the Keio Bus "Hi 02" line bound for Takahatafudo Station via Hino City Hall. According to the museum guide, the bus ride from Takahatafudo Station to Hino Nanasho Iriguchi takes about 20 minutes. There is also a bus stop named "Shinsengumi no Furusato Rekishikan-mae," but no buses arrive or depart there during opening hours. The temple is a 5-minute walk from Takahatafudo Station.
If you have time, you can also stop by the Hijikata Toshizo Museum. It is a 2-minute walk from Manganji Station, one stop from Takahatafudo Station on the Tama Monorail. It is privately run, and opening days are limited. Toshizo's grave is not at Takahata Fudoson Temple, but at Sekiden-ji Temple near the museum.
Experience Summary
The post town honjin that can be called the origin of the Shinsengumi, the museum that traces the footprints of the warriors through historical records, and the temple housing Toshizo's memorial tablet and bronze statue. Walking through the town of Hino from north to south reveals what the hometown of these Shinsengumi youths was like. Visiting Takahata Fudoson Temple during the Hydrangea Festival in June or for the temple fair held on the 28th of every month is also recommended.