Crossing Mt. Nijo to Taima-dera Temple

Starting from Nijozan Station, this course ascends Mt. Nijo, which features the two side-by-side peaks of Mt. Odake and Mt. Medake. Descending to the eastern foot of the mountain, you visit Taima-dera Temple and stop by Katsuragi City Sumo Museum before heading to Kintetsu Taimadera Station. Alternatively, without climbing the mountain, you can simply visit Taima-dera Temple and Katsuragi City Sumo Museum directly from Taimadera Station.

History and Regional Charm

Mt. Nijo sits on the border between Katsuragi City and the town of Taishi in Osaka Prefecture. Its northern peak, Mt. Odake, is 517 meters high, and the southern peak, Mt. Medake, is 474 meters high; it can be seen from almost anywhere in the Nara Basin. Long ago it was called "Futakamiyama" and was the subject of poems in the Man'yoshu poetry collection. Because the sun sets behind it, it has been revered as a sacred mountain since ancient times.

Closely linked to this mountain is Prince Otsu, a son of Emperor Tenmu. Suspected of rebellion, he was driven to commit suicide at the young age of 24. His remains were transferred to Mt. Nijo. His older sister, Princess Oku, composed a poem lamenting that from tomorrow onward, she would regard Mt. Nijo as her brother and remember him.

At the eastern foot of the mountain stands Taima-dera Temple. According to temple records, it originated when Taima Kunimi, a grandson of Prince Maroko (brother of Prince Shotoku), moved the temple "Manpozoin" built by Prince Maroko to the eastern foot of Mt. Nijo. Legend holds that its main object of veneration, the Taima Mandala, was woven in a single night by Princess Chujo using thread made from lotus stems.

The village of Taima is also the homeland of Taima no Kehaya, regarded as the founder of sumo. In a tale from the Nihon Shoki, during the reign of Emperor Suinin, Kehaya matched his strength against Nomi no Sukune of Izumo Province, had his ribs broken by kicks, and lost his life. Based on this story, Katsuragi City is considered the birthplace of sumo.

Main Highlights

• ​Mt. Nijo​​: Near the summit of Mt. Odake lies a site said to be the grave of Prince Otsu, officially designated as "Prince Otsu's Mt. Nijo Grave" and managed by the Imperial Household Agency. From Mt. Odake to Mt. Medake, you descend briefly to the saddle between the two peaks known as "Umanose" (horseback) and climb a short way up again. From the summit of Mt. Medake, a panoramic view opens up, stretching from the Yamato Plain—including the Yamato Sanzan Mountains—to the Kawachi Plain in Osaka.
• ​Taima-dera Temple​​: It is known as the only temple in Japan where a pair of ancient three-story pagodas survive on both the east and west sides. Both the East Pagoda and the West Pagoda are National Treasures; the East Pagoda, built earlier, is the oldest surviving structure at the temple. Inside the National Treasure main hall (Mandala Hall), the Taima Mandala is housed within a massive zushi (shrine cabinet). The seated Maitreya Buddha statue in the Kondo (Golden Hall) is a National Treasure and is regarded as the oldest clay statue in Japan.
• ​Katsuragi City Sumo Museum​​: Also known as "Kehayaza," this sumo facility houses a dohyo (sumo ring) of the same size as those used in official grand tournaments. Because it is an exhibition ring, anyone can step up onto it while wearing shoes, regardless of age or gender. Next to the museum stands the Taima no Kehaya Mound, a five-tiered stone gorinto monument handed down as the tomb of Kehaya.

Recommended Route and Required Time

The estimated time required is about 5 hours. From Nijozan Station, walking about 0.8 kilometers brings you to the trailhead next to Uenoike Pond. From here to the summit of Mt. Odake is about 2.4 kilometers, taking approximately 1 hour. Although the mountain trail is maintained and signposted, take care as there are several points where paths diverge from the main route. Because there are many steep slopes, please wear appropriate clothing and gear suitable for mountain hiking.

After visiting the site said to be Prince Otsu's grave near the summit of Mt. Odake, descend to Umanose, climb Mt. Medake, and take in the view. For the descent, follow the path from Umanose toward Yusen-ji Temple. Heading down through the dense trees brings you to Toritaniguchi Kofun Burial Mound at the tip of Mt. Odake's ridge. It is a square burial mound dating from the late 7th century, and there is also a theory that this is the actual tomb of Prince Otsu.

Once down at the foot of the mountain, visit Taima-dera Temple. Comparing the East and West Pagodas, the second story has two intercolumnar bays on the East Pagoda and three on the West Pagoda. The stone lantern in front of the Kondo, considered the oldest in Japan, is crafted from tuff from Mt. Nijo. From late April to early May, about 1,200 tree peonies bloom in the garden of Nakanobo, a sub-temple. On April 14, during the Neri Kuyo Eshiki ceremony, the scene of 25 Bodhisattvas guiding Princess Chujo to the Pure Land is reenacted.

From Taima-dera Temple, walk down the approach east for about 780 meters to reach Katsuragi City Sumo Museum. From the museum, it is a 5-minute walk to Kintetsu Taimadera Station. If you choose not to climb the mountain, you can walk about 15 minutes from Taimadera Station to visit Taima-dera Temple, stop by the museum, and return to the station, making for a half-day trip.

Experience Summary

From the mountain peak where Prince Otsu is said to rest, down to the ancient temple at the foot, and on to the village holding the legends of sumo's origins. This day invites you to trace the layered stories surrounding Mt. Nijo: poems of the Man'yoshu, the legend of the Mandala, and the tale of the ancient match of strength. When viewing the stone lantern in front of Taima-dera Temple's Kondo, remember that the stone is the very same Mt. Nijo tuff you were walking upon earlier.