Katsuragi Kodo: From Kuhon-ji Temple to Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine and Takakamo-jinja Shrine, Heading South Along the Mountain Foothills
Gose, Nara
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Take a bus from Kintetsu Gose Station to Sarumebashi, and walk south along the Katsuragi Kodo from the Rokujizo Stone Buddhas. This course takes you all the way along the path at the foot of the Katsuragi mountain range, visiting ancient shrines along the way: Kuhon-ji Temple with its thousand stone Buddhas, Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine, which is said to grant wishes expressed in a single word, the plateau said to be the legendary site of Takamagahara, and down to Takakamo-jinja Shrine at the mountain's base.
History and Regional Charm
The Katsuragi Kodo is a path running along the foot of the Katsuragi mountain range west of the Yamato Plain. Facing the Yamanobe-no-Michi Path that runs to the east, it is also known as the "Katsuragi-no-Michi." It runs north to south through Gose City for a total distance of about 13 kilometers. Dotted along the path are ancient shrines and historic ruins linked to the Katsuragi and Kamo clans, powerful families of ancient times.
Standing in the northern section of the path, Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine enshrines Hitokotonushi-no-Okami. The tale of this great deity appearing before Emperor Yuryaku is recorded in the Kojiki and the Nihon Shoki. It is said that mountain ascetics entering Mt. Katsuragi always paid homage at this shrine.
Takakamo-jinja Shrine, located at the southern end of the path, is an ancient shrine nestled at the foot of Mt. Kongo. According to the shrine's historical records, this area is the birthplace of the Kamo clan. Serving as the head shrine of all Kamo shrines nationwide, it is considered one of the oldest shrines in Japan. The plateau lying between the two shrines is the legendary location of the heavenly realm, Takamagahara.
Stories associated with Kusunoki Masashige from the period of the Northern and Southern Courts also remain along the path. The stone Buddhas at Kuhon-ji Temple are said to have been dedicated by soldiers who sided with Kusunoki Masashige. Along the approach to Takakamo-jinja Shrine stands a bronze statue of Kusunoki Masashige, who was a devout believer in this shrine.
Key Highlights
- Katsuragi Kodo: The landmark in the north, the Rokujizo Stone Buddhas, features six Jizo figures carved into a large boulder; it is said to have been carried to its current location by a debris flow during the Muromachi period. Walking south for about 15 minutes brings you to Kuhon-ji Temple, which was founded by Gyoki during the Nara period. More than 1,800 stone Buddhas line the path behind the main hall. They are said to have been dedicated as substitutes by soldiers siding with Kusunoki Masashige during the wars of the Northern and Southern Courts before heading to battle.
- Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine: This shrine is affectionately known by locals as "Ichigon-san." Entering the approach through a stone torii gate and climbing the steps, a large worship hall awaits. Towering to the left of the worship hall is the "Chichi Icho" (breast ginkgo), a tree estimated to be 1,200 years old. A monument inscribed with a haiku by Matsuo Basho also stands on the grounds.
- Takakamo-jinja Shrine: The current main hall, rebuilt in the 12th year of Tenbun (1543), is a structure from the Muromachi period designated as a National Important Cultural Property. On the Miyanoike pond where carp swim, there is a floating stage where court music (gagaku) and traditional dances are offered. From late April to early May, Japanese primroses cultivated by the former chief priest bloom in full glory.
Recommended Route and Travel Time
The approximate duration is about 5 hours. Take a bus bound for Katsuragi Ropeway Mae from Kintetsu Gose Station and get off at Sarumebashi, which is close to the Rokujizo Stone Buddhas. Turning south from the Rokujizo Stone Buddhas, pastoral scenery immediately opens up, offering a panoramic view of the Yamato Plain. It is about a 15-minute walk to Kuhon-ji Temple. From the gentle hill near the north parking lot of Kuhon-ji Temple, you can look out over the Nara Basin, home to the Yamato Sanzan Mountains.
Beyond Kuhon-ji Temple, the path narrows little by little. It takes about 10 minutes to reach the monument of the Takaoka-no-miya Palace Site among giant cedar trees, and about 15 minutes to Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine. Past the shrine, pass through the village of Nagara with its many traditional old houses to Gokuraku-ji Temple in about 50 minutes, and climb the mountain path to Hashimoto-in Temple in about 35 minutes. It takes about 15 minutes to the approach of Takamahiko-jinja Shrine surrounded by dense giant cedars, and about 40 minutes from there down to Takakamo-jinja Shrine at the foot of the mountain. Adding up the section estimates, the walking time is about 3 hours.
From Takakamo-jinja Shrine, it is about a 15-minute walk to the Kazenomori bus stop on the national highway. Kazenomori is a stop served by buses traveling from Gose Station toward the Gojo Bus Center. While most of the route consists of paved roads, there are also mountain trails with steep ascents and descents. Be sure to wear comfortable athletic walking shoes. Since there are few restaurants and vending machines along the path, it is advisable to bring drinks and a boxed meal. Around the autumn equinox (Higan), spider lilies bloom in profusion around the stone Buddhas of Kuhon-ji Temple and in the fields surrounding Katsuragi Hitokotonushi-jinja Shrine.
Experience Summary
From the shrine of the deity said to grant wishes made in a single word to the shrine venerated by the Kamo clan. Walking south through rural landscapes and cedar groves, tales of ancient powerful clans and legends of Kusunoki Masashige overlap in various places along the way. Look back to the east across the Yamato Plain from the hill near Kuhon-ji Temple or from the fields after turning south at the Rokujizo Stone Buddhas.