Hase-dera Temple and Muro-ji Temple: From the Temple of Flowers to Nyonin Koya (Kintetsu & Bus)

This course takes you on foot from Kintetsu Osaka Line's Hasedera Station to visit Hase-dera Temple, transfers by Kintetsu train to Muroguchi-Ono Station to view the cliff-carved Buddha at Ono-dera Temple, and then continues by bus to Muro-ji Temple. In a single day by train and bus, it connects Hase-dera Temple, known as the "Temple of Flowers," and Muro-ji Temple, known as "Nyonin Koya" (Mount Koya for Women).

History and Regional Appeal

Hase, where Hase-dera Temple is located, is an area celebrated in the Man'yoshu poetry anthology as "secluded Hatsuse." Hase-dera Temple is referred to as the "Temple of Flowers" because it is adorned with flowers across the four seasons. Two stations to the east on the Kintetsu Osaka Line is Muroguchi-Ono Station in the city of Uda.

Hase-dera Temple is the head temple of the Shingon Buzan sect, while Muro-ji Temple is the head temple of the Shingon Muro-ji sect. Ono-dera Temple is also a temple of the Shingon Muro-ji sect. Muro-ji Temple regards its surrounding temples as its "gates," with Ono-dera Temple serving as its west gate. Because many travelers stop at Ono-dera Temple on their way to Muro-ji Temple, it is also referred to as the "Great West Gate of Muro-ji Temple."

In contrast to Mount Koya, which prohibited women, Muro-ji Temple permitted female pilgrims to visit, earning it the name "Nyonin Koya." Between these two major temples whose halls stand on mountain slopes, the line-engraved cliff Buddha of Maitreya along the rock face of the Uda River bridges the journey.

Major Highlights

• ​Hase-dera Temple​​: The main hall's principal image, a standing statue of the Eleven-faced Kannon Bosatsu, measures 1,018 cm in height and is among the largest wooden Kannon statues in Japan. The National Treasure Main Hall housing the principal image is built in the overhang style (kake-zukuri) jutting from the mountainside, constructed in Keian 3 (1650) by order of Tokugawa Iemitsu. A covered corridor (noboriro) of 399 steps leads from the Niomon gate to the Main Hall. In spring, 7,000 peonies of 150 varieties bloom.
• ​Ono-dera Temple​​: On the cliff face across the Uda River, an 11.5-meter-tall standing Maitreya Bodhisattva is engraved in outline. Its carving began in Jogen 1 (1207), and in Jogen 3 (1209), Retired Emperor Gotoba visited for the eye-opening consecration ceremony (kaigen kuyo). In early April, an old Koito weeping cherry tree and red weeping cherry trees bloom side by side.
• ​Muro-ji Temple​​: At the top of Yoroizaka Slope stands the National Treasure Kondo (Golden Hall), built in the 9th century. Beyond it stands the five-story pagoda, approximately 16 meters tall, making it the smallest outdoor five-story pagoda in Japan. From late April, around 3,000 rhododendron bushes bloom from around the Niomon gate through Yoroizaka Slope to the five-story pagoda.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The estimated time required is about 7 hours. From Osaka, board the Kintetsu Osaka Line at Kintetsu-Uehommachi Station. From Kyoto, take the Kyoto Line and Kashihara Line from Kintetsu-Kyoto Station to Yamato-Yagi Station, then transfer to the Osaka Line. Regular trains such as express trains stop at Hasedera Station and Muroguchi-Ono Station.

It is about a 15-minute walk from Hasedera Station to Hase-dera Temple. After looking up at the framed calligraphy of "Hase-dera" penned by Emperor Goyozei at the Niomon gate, ascend the covered corridor to reach the Main Hall. From the Main Hall's wooden stage, you can view the entire temple grounds at a glance.

After returning to Hasedera Station, take an outbound train on the Kintetsu Osaka Line toward Nabari to Muroguchi-Ono Station, two stops away. Ono-dera Temple is located about 10 kilometers east-northeast of Hase-dera Temple. From Muroguchi-Ono Station to Ono-dera Temple, it is about a 5-minute walk. Once inside the grounds, look up across the Uda River to the rock face to spot the line-carved figure of Maitreya.

Return from Ono-dera Temple to Muroguchi-Ono Station and take a Nara Kotsu bus from outside the station toward Muro-ji Temple. Board the bus bound for Muro Ryuketsu-jinja Shrine and disembark at "Muro-ji." Buses run infrequently, so checking the departure times in advance will ensure a smooth trip. After getting off, cross the vermilion arched bridge over the Muro River to enter the grounds. From the Niomon gate, climb Yoroizaka Slope to reach the Kondo, followed by the five-story pagoda. On your return, take a bus back to Muroguchi-Ono Station and board an inbound train on the Kintetsu Osaka Line toward Osaka-Uehommachi.

Experience Summary

Climb the long covered corridor to the Main Hall housing the great Kannon. Gaze up at the cliff-carved Maitreya across the waters of the Uda River, then visit the small five-story pagoda atop the stone steps. Connect these historic mountain temples from the Temple of Flowers to Nyonin Koya in a single day using Kintetsu trains and buses. In spring, peonies, weeping cherry blossoms, and rhododendrons grace each temple.