The Stone Buddha Path of Tono: From Gansen-ji Temple to Joruri-ji Temple

In the village of Tono, located on the border between Kyoto and Nara Prefectures, this walking course takes you along mountain paths lined with historic stone Buddhas from Gansen-ji Temple to Joruri-ji Temple. Head from JR Kamo Station to Gansen-ji Temple by bus, and leisurely walk down the satoyama (rural foothill) path of about 2 kilometers while visiting cliff-carved Buddhas such as Warai-botoke, arriving at the Pure Land garden of Joruri-ji Temple. On the way back, you can take a bus from the front of Joruri-ji Temple.

History and Regional Appeal

The name Tono is said to originate from the area being called "To-no" (ridge of pagodas), as many temples once stood here, with three-story pagodas and thirteen-tier stone pagodas lining the ridges. In the Odawara area where Joruri-ji Temple stands, hermitages and ascetic training sites for monks were established beginning in the Heian period. Around Joruri-ji Temple and Gansen-ji Temple, numerous cliff-carved Buddhas were created for travelers between the late Kamakura period and the Muromachi period. These stone Buddhas served as gentle waymarkers watching over those walking along the road. From the Kamakura period until the end of the Edo period, both Gansen-ji Temple and Joruri-ji Temple were branch temples of Ichijo-in at Kofuku-ji Temple in Nara.

Key Highlights

• ​Gansen-ji Temple​​: According to the temple records, it is said to have begun in 729 (the first year of the Tenpyo era) when Emperor Shomu ordered Gyoki to build an Amida-do Hall. The principal image is a seated statue of Amida Nyorai of joroku size, believed to have been made in 946 (the 9th year of the Tengyo era), and is designated as an Important Cultural Property. On an elevated site straight ahead past the sanmon gate stands a vermilion three-story pagoda bearing an inscription from 1442 (the 2nd year of the Kakitsu era). A notable feature is the humorous wooden carved "sumi-oni" (corner demons) supporting the rafters at the four corners. There are approximately 5,000 hydrangea bushes on the grounds, which bloom from early June to early July.
• ​Iwafune Amida Triad Cliff Buddha (Warai-botoke)​​: This is the most widely cherished cliff-carved Buddha among the stone Buddhas of Tono. It carries an inscription dated 1299 (the 7th year of the Einin era), and its creator, I no Sueyuki, was a descendant of I no Yukisue, a stonemason invited from distant China during the Kamakura period to help rebuild Todai-ji Temple. Because the rock juts out above the carving like eaves, erosion from rain appears to have been minimal, keeping it in good preservation. Beside it lies the "Nemuri-botoke" (Sleeping Buddha), which is half-buried in the soil.
• ​Joruri-ji Temple​​: Belonging to the Shingon Risshu sect, this temple is also called "Kutai-ji" (Nine-body Temple) because nine statues of Amida Nyorai are enshrined in its main hall. During the Heian period, around 30 nine-Amida halls were reportedly built mainly in Kyoto, but Joruri-ji Temple is the only one surviving today. Both the main hall and the nine statues are designated as National Treasures. Centering on the treasure pond (Takara-ike), the main hall and Amida Nyorai are enshrined in the west, while the National Treasure three-story pagoda and Yakushi Nyorai are enshrined in the east, representing the Pure Land of Ultimate Bliss.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. From JR Kamo Station, ride the Kizugawa City Community Bus for about 16 minutes and get off at "Gansen-ji", right next to Gansen-ji Temple. There is no parking lot within the grounds of Gansen-ji Temple; visitors arriving by car should use the private parking areas located at "Gansen-ji-mae" and "Joruri-ji-mae".

The approximately 2-kilometer stretch from Gansen-ji Temple to Joruri-ji Temple is a hiking course gently descending through the satoyama foothills, accompanied by streams and bamboo groves alongside the stone Buddhas. Although it can be walked in less than an hour, it is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace while visiting each stone Buddha. The Kyoto Prefecture model course leads from Gansen-ji Temple past Ichigan Fudo, Warai-botoke, Karasu-no-Tsubo Nison, and Yabu-no-naka Sanzon before reaching Joruri-ji Temple. Warai-botoke is located approximately 240 meters west-southwest of Gansen-ji Temple. Karasu-no-Tsubo Nison is a rare cliff-carved Buddha featuring images of Amida and Jizo carved into two faces of a boulder at a fork in the road, bearing an inscription from 1342 (the 2nd year of the Koei era). Yabu-no-naka Sanzon, located slightly east of the front gate of Joruri-ji Temple, depicts a triad of Amida, Kannon, and Jizo carved into a boulder, bearing the oldest era inscription in Tono from 1263 (the 2nd year of the Kocho era). Along the path, you may also come across "tsuri-dana", unattended stalls selling vegetables from local farmers.

At Joruri-ji Temple, the traditional order of worship is said to be first praying to Yakushi Nyorai at the three-story pagoda in the east, then turning around to face across the pond to worship Amida Nyorai in the main hall. For the return trip, you can take the Kizugawa City Community Bus from in front of Joruri-ji Temple back to JR Kamo Station. June, when the hydrangeas at Gansen-ji Temple bloom, and early to mid-March, when the Japanese andromeda (asebi) at Joruri-ji Temple blossom, are also wonderful times to visit.

Experience Summary

From a temple featuring a vermilion three-story pagoda and corner demons, walk down a satoyama trail guarded by stone Buddhas from the Kamakura period, leading to a Pure Land garden lined with nine statues of Amida Nyorai. Guided by these waymarking stone Buddhas, enjoy a peaceful stroll along the ancient prayer paths of Tono village.