From National Treasure Kanshin-ji Temple to Kusunoki Masashige's Chihaya Castle and Mt. Kongo
Chihayaakasaka Village, Osaka
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From Kawachi-Nagano Station, take a bus to Kanshin-ji Temple, a temple holding National Treasures with ties to Kusunoki Masashige. From there, take another bus deeper into the mountains and hike up to the summit area of Mt. Kongo via the ruins of Chihaya Castle, which was built by Masashige. This course includes mountain hiking, allowing you to experience the history of the Nanboku-cho period and the nature of Osaka Prefecture's highest mountain in a single day.
History and Regional Appeal
During the medieval period, the Kawachi foot of Mt. Kongo served as the home base of the Kusunoki clan. Kusunoki Masashige is said to have studied Buddhist teachings at Chu-in Temple, a sub-temple of Kanshin-ji Temple, for about eight years, from his childhood until age 15. In 1332 (Genko 2), he built Chihaya Castle at the trailhead of Mt. Kongo. The following year, with a force of only about 1,000 soldiers, he held off a vast army dispatched by the Kamakura shogunate. Chihaya Castle became known as a fortress that did not fall even during fierce siege warfare, and this battle suddenly brought fame to Mt. Kongo as well.
Masashige lost his life in the Battle of Minatogawa. It is said that Ashikaga Takauji returned his severed head to Kanshin-ji Temple, and a burial mound for his head (kubizuka) remains on the temple grounds. The three-story pagoda at Kanshin-ji Temple, which Masashige attempted to build but left unfinished during construction, still stands today as the incomplete "Tatekake Pagoda." Masashige is also enshrined at Chihaya-jinja Shrine on the ruins of Chihaya Castle and at Katsuragi-jinja Shrine on Mt. Kongo.
Mt. Kongo was anciently called Mt. Katsuragi. Ever since En no Ozunu underwent ascetic training here during the Nara period, it has been revered as a sacred mountain of Shugendo. Kanshin-ji Temple is also said to have been founded by En no Gyoja.
Key Highlights
- Kanshin-ji Temple: Built in the early Muromachi period, the National Treasure Main Hall (Kondo) is regarded as a representative example of eclectic architecture, combining traditional Japanese style (wayo) with Great Buddha style (daibutsuyo) and Zen style (zenshuyo). The principal image, a seated Nyoirin Kannon statue, is a National Treasure hidden Buddhist statue from the early Heian period, and its doors are opened only for two days each year on April 17 and 18. The temple grounds are also known for plum blossoms, cherry blossoms, and autumn foliage, and a bronze statue of Kusunoki Masashige stands beside the main gate (Sanmon).
- Chihaya Castle: Located on a small ridge peak extending westward from Mt. Kongo, this mountain castle ruin is surrounded on three sides by deep ravines. Climbing the long stone staircase leads to a flat terrace known as the "Yon-no-maru" (fourth bailey). In the Ni-no-maru (second bailey) stands Chihaya-jinja Shrine, which originated as the castle's guardian shrine and later enshrined Kusunoki Masashige and Kusunoki Masatsura. It is designated as a National Historic Site and selected as one of Japan's Top 100 Castles.
- Mt. Kongo: Straddling the border between Osaka and Nara Prefectures, this is the highest mountain in Osaka Prefecture with an elevation of 1,125 meters. The summit area is surrounded by large cedar trees and houses Katsuragi-jinja Shrine as well as Tenporin-ji Temple, which is said to have been founded by En no Ozunu. The peak offers sweeping views of the Osaka Plain and Nara Basin, and in winter it becomes even busier than in summer with hikers coming to see the rime ice.
Recommended Route and Travel Time
The approximate required time is about 7 hours, involving hiking up and down mountain trails. From Kawachi-Nagano Station on the Nankai Koya Line and Kintetsu Nagano Line, take a Nankai Bus on the Obuka Line bound for Mt. Kongo and get off at "Kanshin-ji," right near the temple.
After visiting Kanshin-ji Temple, board the Mt. Kongo-bound bus again and get off at "Kongo Tozanguchi (Chihaya Hondo-guchi)." The ruins of Chihaya Castle are located about 5.4 kilometers east-southeast of Kanshin-ji Temple along the trail up Mt. Kongo. After climbing the long stone steps to view the castle ruins, continue hiking along the Chihaya Hondo Path. The summit area of Mt. Kongo is about 2.0 kilometers to the east, taking about 1 hour from the trailhead to the summit.
Because the Mt. Kongo Ropeway has been removed, the descent must also be made on foot. You can either descend the same Chihaya Hondo Path back to the Kongo Tozanguchi bus stop, or hike for about 60 minutes along the trail from the Fumin-no-mori Chihaya Enchi park area down to the final bus stop, "Kongo-san (Fushimi Pass Entrance)." Since falling accidents have occurred in ravines off the recommended hiking paths, please stick to the trails indicated on the village trail map.
Along with the principal images of Fujii-dera Temple and Domyo-ji Temple, the principal image of Kanshin-ji Temple is introduced as one of the three temples of Minamikawachi that house National Treasure Kannon statues. Combining this trip with a guide to Furuichi is also recommended.
Experience Summary
Gaze up at the National Treasure Main Hall and the unfinished pagoda at the temple where Masashige studied, climb the stone steps of the mountain castle that held off a massive army, and stand atop the highest mountain in Osaka Prefecture. This is a one-day journey on foot through Nanboku-cho historical tales and seasonal mountain nature.