Sayama Pond and the National Treasures of Amanosan Kongo-ji Temple
Osakasayama, Osaka
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In the morning, visit Sayama Pond, built 1,400 years ago, and the Osaka Prefectural Sayamaike Museum, which conveys its history. In the afternoon, travel into the mountains via the Nankai Koya Line and bus to Kongo-ji Temple on Mount Amanosan, known as "Nyonin Koya," to view three National Treasure statues, along with the Kondo (main hall) and Tahoto pagoda, which have undergone repairs. This route by train, bus, and walking follows a reservoir that has nourished the Minamikawachi plains and a temple that preserves the history of the Nanboku-cho period.
History and Local Charm
Sayama Pond is Japan's oldest dam-style irrigation reservoir, created around 616 in the Asuka period by damming the Nishiyoke River. Famous historical figures such as Gyoki in the Nara period, Chogen in the Kamakura period, and Katagiri Katsumoto in the early Edo period were involved in its renovations, and it has continually irrigated the Minamikawachi plains for 1,400 years. Through the "Heisei Renovation" from the end of the Showa period through the Heisei period, it was reborn as the Sayama Pond Dam, which also functions to prevent floods.
Kongo-ji Temple is a grand head temple (daihonzan) of the Omuro branch of the Shingon sect, located in Amano-cho, Kawachinagano City, and its mountain name is Amanosan. It is said to have been founded in the Nara period by Gyoki, who also left his mark on the renovation of Sayama Pond. At the end of the Heian period, Akan Shonin rebuilt the temple complex with the patronage of Retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa and Hachijo-nyoin. It became a prayer temple for successive imperial consorts and received devotion from many women, which led to it being called "Nyonin Koya" (Koya for women).
During the Nanboku-cho period, it served as a base for the Southern Court, and Emperor Go-Murakami used sub-temples such as Mani-in Temple as a temporary imperial palace for five years. "Amano Sake," brewed within the temple grounds, has been known as an exceptional sake since the Muromachi period and was presented to figures such as Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
Major Highlights
- Osaka Prefectural Sayamaike Museum: Designed by Ando Tadao, this is a site museum dedicated to Sayama Pond. A cross-section of the North Dike, approximately 15 meters high, has been moved inside the building, allowing visitors to see traces of renovations from the Asuka period through the Showa period. Important Cultural Properties of Japan are also on display, including the Asuka-period Higashi-hi Conduit, which was fashioned from Japanese umbrella pine felled in the 24th year of Empress Suiko's reign (616).
- Sayama Pond: A walking path has been established around the pond, and tidal flats have been restored at the South Dike, offering encounters with various wild birds in every season. About 1,300 cherry trees, including the early-blooming Koshino-higan, are planted in Sayamaike Park surrounding the pond, bustling with many blossom viewers in spring. In 2014, it was registered as a World Heritage Irrigation Structure and is also designated as a National Historic Site.
- Kongo-ji Temple: The three statues in the Kondo—the seated figure of Dainichi Nyorai in the center, flanked by seated figures of Fudo Myoo and Gozanze Myoo—were designated as National Treasures in 2017. The Kondo, originally built in the Kamakura period, was restored to its vibrant colors along with the Tahoto pagoda through a major renovation lasting about nine years. On either side of the vermilion Romon gate stand statues of Jikokuten and Zochoten, each measuring over 2.7 meters tall.
Recommended Route and Required Time
The estimated time required is about 6 hours. In the morning, walk about 700 meters west from Osakasayamashi Station on the Nankai Koya Line to the Osaka Prefectural Sayamaike Museum. After learning how the dikes and conduits work through the exhibits, step out to the North Dike and stroll along the edge of the pond to feel even closer to this reservoir that has been preserved for 1,400 years.
Kongo-ji Temple is situated in the mountains about 8 kilometers south of Sayama Pond. Return to Osakasayamashi Station and take the Nankai Koya Line to Kawachi-Nagano Station. Board the Nankai Bus Amanosan Line from bus stop No. 3 in front of the station, and get off at "Amanosan" after approximately 15 minutes. Note that buses bound for Cycle Sports Center departing from bus stop No. 7 do not pass through Amanosan, so be careful of your bus stop.
Inside the temple grounds, pass through the Romon gate into the central compound where the Kondo and Tahoto pagoda stand side by side. At Mani-in Temple, which served as the temporary imperial palace for Emperor Go-Murakami, the front gate and the tsuijibei (roofed mud walls) can be viewed from outside. On the return trip, take the same bus back to Kawachi-Nagano Station.
Kawachinagano is also home to Kanshin-ji Temple, which has deep ties to the Southern Court as well. Following the history of Minamikawachi by combining this trip with a guide to Kanshin-ji Temple and Chihaya Castle is also recommended.
Summary of the Experience
Through the wooden conduits and dike cross-sections of the Asuka period, encounter the wisdom of the people who kept protecting the reservoir, and stroll along the waterside amidst cherry blossoms and wild birds. In the afternoon, look up at the three National Treasure statues at a mountain temple revered by women that once welcomed an emperor of the Southern Court. Savor a 1,400-year story of Minamikawachi connected by the name of Gyoki in a single day.