Numakuma Peninsula: From Shinshoji Temple to Abuto Kannon and Tomo's Ancient Shrine (By Car)

Fukuyama, Hiroshima

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This driving itinerary takes you across the Numakuma Peninsula in Fukuyama City. After experiencing the gardens, architecture, and art at Shinshoji Temple, a mountain Zen temple, you will visit Abuto Kannon situated on a cape at the peninsula's southern tip, followed by Nunakuma-jinja Shrine in the historic port town of Tomonoura.

History and Local Charm

The three locations visited on this route were all established and preserved through their connections to the sea.

Nunakuma-jinja Shrine in Tomonoura is said to have begun when Empress Jingu enshrined the sea deity to pray for maritime safety, and tradition holds that the place name "Tomo" originates from the tomo (an archer's arm guard) that she dedicated. Abuto Kannon is said to trace its origins back to the Heian period, when Cloistered Emperor Kazan enshrined a statue of Kannon atop the rocks of the cape to pray for the safety of ships passing through the sea, and it has long gathered faith as a hall for safe navigation. Shinshoji Temple was built in 1965 by Kanbara Hideo, head of a local shipbuilding company, as a place of memorial for those who lost their lives in maritime accidents.

An ancient shrine, a historic Kannon hall, and a Zen temple founded in the Showa era. Though from different periods, these three destinations are tied together by prayers directed toward the sea, leading you in sequence from the peninsula's mountains to its cape and port town.

Key Highlights

  • ​Shinshoji Temple​​: A temple of the Rinzai sect Kennin-ji branch, its expansive grounds are open as the "Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens." Scattered across the grounds are the Edo-period main gate (relocated from the former Kayanomiya Residence within the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden), a pond-strolling garden (chisen kaiyushiki), and the temple office "Shodo" designed by architect Fujimori Terunobu. It also features "Kohtei," a boat-shaped art pavilion created by the creative platform SANDWICH led by sculptor Nawa Kohei, and the Shogondo, which presents Zen paintings and calligraphies by the Edo-period Zen monk Hakuin.
  • ​Abuto Kannon​​: The Kannon hall of Bandai-ji Temple, belonging to the Rinzai sect, standing atop the rocks of Cape Abuto jutting out into the Seto Inland Sea from the southern tip of the Numakuma Peninsula. The current Kannon hall, said to have been built by Mori Terumoto during the Genki era (1570–1573), is a National Important Cultural Property. The vermilion pillars contrast beautifully against the blue sea, and from the hall's corridor—which slopes slightly outward toward the water—you can look out over the sea right below and the islands of Setouchi.
  • ​Nunakuma-jinja Shrine​​: Located in Tomonoura, this shrine is also known as Tomo Gion-gu Shrine, and its name is recorded in the Heian-period Engishiki. It enshrines the sea deity Owatatsumi no Mikoto and Susanoo no Mikoto. The Noh stage on the grounds is said to have been favored by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and originally located in Kyoto's Fushimi Castle; it is considered the only surviving modular (demountable) Noh stage in Japan and is designated as a National Important Cultural Property.

Recommended Route & Travel Time

The recommended duration is about 5 hours. From JR Fukuyama Station to Shinshoji Temple, it takes about 30 minutes by car. The grounds of Shinshoji Temple are spacious with slopes and stone stairs, so explore at a leisurely pace wearing comfortable walking shoes. Because entry to Kohtei is arranged at fixed time slots, checking the schedule upon arrival will make it easier to coordinate your visit with the rest of the gardens and buildings.

From Shinshoji Temple, head toward Abuto Kannon, about 7.6 kilometers south-southeast in a straight line, taking roughly 15 minutes by car. The hall's corridor slopes toward the sea and the handrails are low, so please watch your step and walk carefully.

From Abuto Kannon to Tomonoura takes about 10 minutes by car. At Nunakuma-jinja Shrine, take time to visit the Noh stage as well as the other cultural properties on the grounds, such as the second torii gate, stone lanterns, and strength stones (chikara-ishi). If you have extra time, extending your walk to nearby Io-ji Temple or the Joyato Stone Lantern by the harbor is also recommended. The townscape of Tomonoura is introduced in the "Tomonoura" and "Joyato Stone Lantern" spots. Driving from Tomonoura back to Fukuyama Station takes about 30 minutes.

Experience Summary

Contemporary Zen gardens and art, a Kannon hall looking over the waters from a cape, and a historic Noh stage preserved in a port-town shrine. This driving itinerary lets you spend a day exploring places of prayer on the Numakuma Peninsula that have shared their history with the sea.

Spots in this guide (3)

  1. Shinshoji Temple
  2. Abuto Kannon
  3. Nunakuma-jinja Shrine