Castle Town of Uda-Matsuyama: Historic Streets, Morino Old Medicinal Herb Garden, and Uda Mikumari-jinja Shrine (Matabei-zakura in Spring; By Car)

Starting from the weeping Matabei-zakura cherry tree in Hongo, Ouda, walk through the castle town streets of Uda-Matsuyama. After viewing medicinal herbs at Morino Old Medicinal Herb Garden sprawling across the hill behind the town, travel by car eastward to Utano. This course traces Uda's history of medicine and water, taking you to Uda Mikumari-jinja Shrine, where three National Treasure main sanctuary buildings stand side by side.

History and Regional Charm

This course tours the Ouda and Utano areas of Uda City. Uda City was formed in 2006 through the merger of the towns of Ouda, Utano, and Haibara, and the village of Muro.

The relationship between Uda and medicine is ancient. In the Nihon Shoki, an entry for the 5th day of the 5th month in the 19th year of Empress Suiko's reign records, "Held a medicinal hunt at Utano." This medicinal hunting (kusurigari) was a hunt to obtain the young antlers of deer. It is believed that imperial hunting grounds were established within Uda District. Ouda is also the land of Akino, celebrated in the Manyoshu. The poem by Kakinomoto no Hitomaro, "On the eastern fields I see the first light of dawn rising, and when I look back, the moon is sinking," was composed when Prince Karu hunted in this area.

Matsuyama, the center of Ouda, flourished as the castle town of Uda-Matsuyama Castle and later developed into a merchant town. Selling Uda paper and Yoshino kuzu starch, it was lively enough to be described as "Matsuyama of a Thousand Houses" or "Uda of a Thousand Houses." Uda-Matsuyama has long been known as a medicine town, and in 1729 (Kyoho 14) during the Edo period, Morino Old Medicinal Herb Garden was opened on the hill behind the town. In Furuichiba, the center of Utano to the east, markets were held during the medieval period. In Furuichiba stands Uda Mikumari-jinja Shrine, dedicated to the deity presiding over the distribution of water.

Key Highlights

• ​Matabei-zakura​​: A weeping cherry tree said to be around 300 years old, this massive tree stands 13 meters tall with a trunk circumference exceeding 3 meters. It came to be affectionately called by this name due to legends surrounding the Sengoku period warrior Goto Matabei and because the tree stands on the former site of the Goto family residence. Peach blossoms bloom behind it and canola flowers in front, adding layers of color alongside the moss-covered stone wall.
• ​Uda-Matsuyama Townscape​​: Along an approximately 600-meter street running between Shiroyama and the Uda River, townhouses from the Edo period to the early Showa period remain, designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. You can stroll while comparing the lattice styles that vary by building and the mushikomado (latticed mud-plastered windows) on the second floors. The "Kuromon" gate at the town's entrance, the Matsuyama West Entrance Gate, is a national historic site.
• ​Morino Old Medicinal Herb Garden​​: Spreading across the hill behind "Morino Yoshino Kuzu Honpo," a long-established shop for Yoshino kuzu, this is Japan's oldest private medicinal botanical garden and a national historic site. It is said to have begun when Morino Tosuke planted medicinal seeds and seedlings received from the shogunate, and approximately 250 species of medicinal herbs and trees are still cultivated today. From the garden, you can look out over the town of Ouda.
• ​Uda Mikumari-jinja Shrine​​: Located along the Hono River, this ancient shrine is mentioned in the Engishiki. Its Kamakura-period main sanctuaries are designated as National Treasures, featuring three Kasuga-zukuri style buildings standing side by side, believed to have been constructed in 1320 (Geno 2). To the right facing the main sanctuaries, the main halls of the auxiliary Kasuga Shrine and Munakata Shrine from the Muromachi period stand together, both designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The recommended duration is about 5 hours. When traveling by car, aim for the Roadside Station "Udaji Ouda." By train and bus, take the Nara Kotsu bus bound for "Ouda" from Kintetsu Haibara Station and alight at the final stop, "Ouda," after about 20 minutes.

Matabei-zakura is about a 20-minute walk from the final bus stop. The blooming season is from late March to early April, and traffic regulations may be implemented during the blossom season. Please check information from the Uda City Tourism Association before setting out. After viewing the cherry tree from downstream or directly below, head about 1.5 kilometers east-northeast toward the Uda-Matsuyama Townscape. If it is not the blossom season, you may also start from the townscape.

The townscape is about a 5-minute walk from the bus terminus. Stroll while listening to the murmuring of the Maekawa waterway running along both sides of the street, and look for lattices, mushikomado windows, and old medicine signboards. Morino Old Medicinal Herb Garden is located about 240 meters south of the townscape. The garden has no parking lot, so those arriving by car should park at the second parking lot of Roadside Station "Udaji Ouda" and walk. From late March to early April, dogtooth violets (katakuri) also bloom in the herb garden.

After leaving the herb garden, travel about 3.5 kilometers east by car to Uda Mikumari-jinja Shrine. When going by bus, take a bus bound for "Utano" or "Higashiyoshino Village Office" from Kintetsu Haibara Station, get off at "Furuichiba Mikumari Jinja," and walk for about 5 minutes. On the shrine grounds, compare the three main sanctuary buildings, and visit the main halls of Kasuga Shrine and Munakata Shrine on the right, as well as the Meoto-sugi (Wedded Cedars) and Yoritomo-sugi cedar.

Summary of the Experience

In spring, begin under the weeping cherry blossoms, stroll through the castle town lined with latticed merchant houses, and climb the slope of the herb garden that has continued since the Edo period to overlook the town. Finally, face the three Kamakura-period main sanctuaries standing side by side along the Hono River. In half a day, you can trace Uda's deep connections to medicine that date back to the ancient medicinal hunts (kusurigari). Look down from the herb garden over the townscape to spot the street you just walked.