The Depths of Totsukawa Village: Tamaki-jinja Shrine and Dorohatcho (By Car, Staying at Totsukawa Onsen)

Explore the deep reaches of Totsukawa Village by car. The morning after staying at Totsukawa Onsen, drive up winding mountain roads toward Mt. Tamaki. After praying at Tamaki-jinja Shrine, which is embraced by a forest of giant cedar trees, descend the mountain toward Dorohatcho along the Kitayama River. On this route, you tour the deep pools between rocky cliffs by riverboat, followed by a break at Doro Hotel.

History and Regional Charm

Totsukawa Village is said to be Japan's largest village by area. Running through the village's mountains is the Omine Okugake-michi, an ascetic practice route connecting Kumano and Yoshino. Tamaki-jinja Shrine, enshrined near the summit of Mt. Tamaki, has long been regarded as one of its ascetic practice sites. In the Heian period, it flourished and was also referred to as the inner sanctuary (oku-no-in) of the Kumano Sanzan (the three grand shrines of Kumano). In 2004, it was registered as a World Heritage site as part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range."

Beyond the descent from Mt. Tamaki, the Kitayama River, a tributary of the Kumano River, forms the gorge known as Dorokyo Gorge along the borders of Nara, Mie, and Wakayama Prefectures. For more than 600 years, the Kitayama River was used as a waterway by log rafters to transport timber downstream. In the settlement of Tado, once a relay point for raft floating, Doro Hotel still stands today, said to have originated as an inn for those rafters.

Your accommodation for this journey is Totsukawa Onsen. In 2004, Totsukawa Village became the first municipality in Japan to issue a "100% Free-Flowing Hot Spring Declaration" (gensen kakenagashi), allowing you to soak in pure, constantly flowing hot springs here as well.

Major Highlights

• ​Totsukawa Onsen​​: A hot spring area situated on the shores of Futatsuno Dam lake, featuring the highest concentration of inns and shops within the village. At Iori-no-Yu, a public bathhouse located in the center of the hot spring area, you can bathe while taking in views of the lake unfolding right outside. The water of Totsukawa Onsen is also drinkable, and there are footbaths and spots for drinking the hot spring water.
• ​Tamaki-jinja Shrine​​: A shrine enshrined near the summit of Mt. Tamaki at an elevation of 1,076 meters. Within its grounds, where logging was prohibited for ages as a sacred sanctuary, stand giant cedars, including the Jindaisugi cedar, which is said to be around 3,000 years old. Tamaishi-sha Shrine, an auxiliary shrine without a sanctuary building, is considered to be the origin of Tamaki-jinja Shrine.
• ​Dorohatcho​​: The section of Dorokyo Gorge known as Shimodoro (Lower Doro), designated as a National Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument. A clear, deep pool spreads like a mirror between sheer cliff walls that rise like folding screens. On the riverboat tours departing from Tado in Totsukawa Village, guided by boatmen born and raised locally, you can approach close to bizarre rocks and giant boulders.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The estimated time required is approximately 6 hours, with an overnight stay at Totsukawa Onsen the night before. Totsukawa Onsen is about 73 kilometers from the Gojo Interchange on the Keinawa Expressway via National Route 168. According to village information, it takes about 90 minutes by car to Tosenji Onsen, where the Totsukawa Village Office is located, and about another 15 minutes from there to Totsukawa Onsen.

In the morning, depart from Totsukawa Onsen and ascend Mt. Tamaki. Driving up the winding mountain road to the parking lot of Mt. Tamaki takes about 20 to 30 minutes. In winter, tire chain regulations may apply due to snow and freezing, so preparations such as winter tires are necessary. On Saturdays, Sundays, national holidays, and event days, the parking area can fill up, and roads may become congested. From the Mt. Tamaki Observation Deck, located about a 5-minute drive from Tamaki-jinja Shrine, you can enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of Totsukawa Village.

Cars cannot enter the shrine grounds directly. From the parking lot to the shrine precincts, it takes about 20 to 30 minutes to walk along the mountain approach path. Please wear comfortable walking shoes. Plan for about 1 hour and 30 minutes to 3 hours for your visit.

After worshiping, descend Mt. Tamaki and head toward Dorohatcho on the Kitayama River. In a straight line, Dorohatcho is about 5 kilometers east-southeast of Tamaki-jinja Shrine. Because you will be descending winding mountain roads, allow plenty of time. Cars can be parked at the Dorokyo Parking Lot indicated on the Totsukawa Village tourism website. The riverboat tour Kawasemi, which departs from Tado in Totsukawa Village, requires advance reservation. The water jet boats that once operated here have been suspended since January 2021 (Reiwa 3).

After the riverboat ride, you can enjoy light meals and tea while gazing out over Dorokyo Gorge at Doro Hotel, built atop a stone wall. For your return trip, Doro Hotel recommends taking the route via National Route 169 toward either Nara or Shingu. Shingu Station is about 45 minutes away by taxi or rental car.

Experience Summary

Soothe the fatigue of travel in hot springs, ascend the morning mountain roads, and visit Tamaki-jinja Shrine surrounded by towering giant cedars. Descending the mountain, Dorohatcho awaits with its deep pools nestled between rock walls. Get up close to bizarre rock formations by riverboat, and take a breather at Doro Hotel, which is said to have begun as an inn for rafters. This is a journey deep into Totsukawa Village to experience a sacred mountain sanctuary and a river gorge all in one trip.