Shinsekai: A Town of Tsutenkaku Tower and Kushikatsu, Leading to Tennoji Zoo

After paying respects at Imamiya Ebisu-jinja Shrine, dedicated to "Ebessan," the deity of business prosperity, head up Tsutenkaku Tower, the symbol of Shinsekai. This walking course takes you on a food crawl through the Shinsekai area surrounding the tower and the kushikatsu-lined Janjan Yokocho alley, concluding at Tennoji Zoo, which opened during the Taisho era.

History and Local Charm

The origins of Shinsekai, a downtown district in southern Osaka City, date back to the 5th National Industrial Exhibition held in 1903 (Meiji 36). On the western half of the former exhibition grounds, the original Tsutenkaku Tower and the Luna Park amusement park to its south were established in 1912 (Meiji 45). Shinsekai was developed with its northern half modeled after Paris and its southern half after New York's Coney Island, with streets radiating outwards from Tsutenkaku Tower in the northern district.

In the early Showa era, the area flourished as an entertainment quarter filled with movie theaters and popular casual eateries; it is said that the sounds of the shamisen could always be heard along Janjan Yokocho, which emerged in 1921. The first Tsutenkaku Tower was dismantled after a fire in 1943 (Showa 18), and most of the area was burned down in air raids. However, through the efforts of local residents, the second-generation Tsutenkaku Tower opened in 1956 (Showa 31). It is regarded as a symbol of Osaka's post-war reconstruction.

To the northwest of Shinsekai stands Imamiya Ebisu-jinja Shrine, said to have originated when Prince Shotoku enshrined a guardian deity for the west of Shitenno-ji Temple, while to the southeast lies Tennoji Zoo, opened in 1915 (Taisho 4). Ancient faith, an entertainment district continuing since the exhibition eras of Meiji and Taisho, and the tastes of kushikatsu and dote-yaki are all gathered within walking distance.

Major Highlights

• ​Imamiya Ebisu-jinja Shrine​​: A shrine revered as the home of Osaka's deity of business prosperity, "Ebessan." During the Toka Ebisu festival held every year from January 9 to 11, the chant "Bring the bamboo branch for thriving business!" echoes throughout the grounds, drawing more than approximately 1 million worshippers over the three days. It is customary to pay respects, walk behind the main hall, strike a gong, and make your prayer once more.
• ​Tsutenkaku Tower​​: A 108-meter-tall observation tower registered as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property. It was designed by Naito Tachu, who also worked on Tokyo Tower. In the golden observation deck 87.5 meters above ground sits the third-generation Billiken with golden hair, whose soles are said to bring good fortune when touched. From the open-air observation deck "Tembo Paradise" at 94.5 meters, you can enjoy unobstructed views of Osaka.
• ​Shinsekai​​: A downtown neighborhood famous as the home of kushikatsu (skewered cutlets), where "double-dipping" into the sauce is prohibited. Along Tsutenkaku Hondori, you can enter the covered Shinsekai Market, which opened in 1914 (Taisho 3), and statues of Billiken can be found all over town.
• ​Janjan Yokocho​​: A narrow arcade street about 2.5 meters wide, officially named "Nanyo-dori Shopping Street." Lined with kushikatsu shops, standing bars, and shogi (Japanese chess) parlors, and still displaying colorful signs from decades ago, it feels like a time capsule.
• ​Tennoji Zoo​​: The third zoo to open in Japan, keeping roughly 1,000 animals across about 170 species within grounds of approximately 11 hectares. It features "ecological exhibits" that recreate natural habitats; in the African Savanna Zone, you can observe herbivores standing behind the lions all at once.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated duration is about 4 hours. Begin walking from Imamiya Ebisu-jinja Shrine, located just east after getting off at Imamiyaebisu Station on the Nankai Koya Line. After paying your respects, walk about 470 meters southeast to Tsutenkaku Tower. From the observation deck, look down upon the streets of Shinsekai that you are about to explore.

After descending Tsutenkaku Tower, walk around the surrounding Shinsekai area. For lunch, try kushikatsu or dote-yaki. Head about 240 meters south to Janjan Yokocho; the passage is narrow, so walk slowly when it is crowded. From the alley, it is about 220 meters east to Tennoji Zoo. Admission closes before the final closing time, so aim to arrive in the early afternoon. It is convenient to enter through the Shinsekai Gate on the Shinsekai side and exit through the Tenshiba Gate close to Tennoji Station when heading back.

Summary of the Experience

Pray for thriving business at Ebessan, gaze out over Osaka from atop Tsutenkaku Tower, and savor kushikatsu in downtown alleyways. Ending your journey at the zoo among animals living in recreated habitats allows you to appreciate the generous heart of this town, which has entertained Osaka's people since the era of the expositions. Enjoy wandering at your own pace while searching for Billiken.