From Kurama-dera Temple Over the Mountain to Kifune-jinja Shrine

This one-day itinerary takes you to Kurama via the Eizan Railway, up the approach to Kurama-dera Temple, from the Honden Kondo (main hall) along the Okunoin approach, and over the mountain down to Kifune-jinja Shrine. Because a steep mountain path continues past the Honden Kondo, be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes.

History and Regional Appeal

Kurama-dera Temple is said to have begun in 770 when Monk Gantei, a leading disciple of Ganjin Wajo, built a grass hermitage enshrining Bishamonten on Mount Kurama. During the Heian period, visits by aristocrats followed one after another, and Sei Shonagon wrote in The Pillow Book of "things that are near yet far: the winding Kurama road." Legends also remain that Minamoto no Yoshitsune, whose childhood name was Ushiwakamaru, entered the temple around age seven and was taught the art of warfare by a tengu at Sojogadani at night. Over the mountain to the northwest, along the upper reaches of the Kibune River, stands Kifune-jinja Shrine, the head shrine of all Kifune shrines, which enshrines the deity governing water supply. Successive imperial courts also had deep faith in the shrine, offering black horses during droughts and white or red horses during prolonged rains to pray for rain or for rain to cease.

Highlights

• ​Kurama-dera Temple​​: The head temple of Kurama Kokyo. The Kongo-sho stone paving in the front courtyard of the Honden Kondo mimics a star mandala and is considered a place of ascetic training where one becomes united with the main deity, Sonten. Climbing a short distance up the path to the left of the main hall leads to the Reihoden (treasury gallery). Beyond that along the Okunoin approach are the "Kinone-michi" (path of tree roots) where cedar roots form patterns across the ground surface, the Yoshitsune-do enshrining Yoshitsune, and the Mao-den, revered as the place where Goho Mao-son descended.
• ​Kifune-jinja Shrine​​: Spring water from Mount Kifune wells up from the stone wall in front of the Motomiya (main shrine) pavilion, known for its "mizuuranai mikuji" fortune slips where written characters appear when floated on the sacred spring. The middle shrine, Yui-no-Yashiro Shrine, is a shrine for matchmaking known as "Koi-no-miya" based on the story of Izumi Shikibu's wish coming true. Surrounded by forest, the Okumiya is the founding site of Kifune-jinja Shrine. Visiting is traditionally done through "Sansha-mairi," which involves visiting the Motomiya, Okumiya, and Yui-no-Yashiro Shrine.

Suggested Route & Time Required

The estimated time required is about 5 hours. Get off at Kurama Station, about 30 minutes from Demachiyanagi Station via the Eizan Railway, and walk about 3 minutes to the Niomon Gate of Kurama-dera Temple. Passing Yuki-jinja Shrine and climbing the winding path (tsuzuraori), it takes about 25 minutes from the Niomon Gate to the Honden Kondo. For the ascent, you can also take the Kurama-yama Cable Car up to Tahoto Station and walk about 10 minutes from there to the Honden Kondo. From the Honden Kondo, enter the Okunoin approach; it takes about 30 minutes to reach Mao-den, and another 20 minutes of walking brings you to Kifune-jinja Shrine. Kurama-dera Temple refers to the path walked from the mountain gate to the West Gate leading to Kibune as the "Path of Training." While the straight-line distance between Kurama-dera Temple and Kifune-jinja Shrine is about 800 meters, the walk crosses a mountain in between. On the return trip, it takes about 40 minutes to walk from Kifune-jinja Shrine to Kibuneguchi Station on the Eizan Railway, and Kyoto Bus can also be used. From May through September, establishments along the Kibune River set up river terraces (kawadoko), and every year on the evening of October 22, the Kurama Fire Festival of Yuki-jinja Shrine takes place.

Summary of the Experience

Climb the winding path written about by Sei Shonagon, cross the path of tree roots patterned by cedar roots, and descend to Kibune where the water deity is enshrined. Spend a full day on foot savoring the stories handed down at this mountain temple and riverside shrine.