Nagaoka-kyo: Komyo-ji Temple's Autumn Leaves and Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine

This walking course takes you along the maple approach at Komyo-ji Temple at the foot of Nagaokakyo City's western mountains, continues to Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine on the shores of Hachijogaike Pond, and finishes at Shoryuji Castle Park, a place tied to Akechi Mitsuhide and Hosokawa Gracia, before heading to JR Nagaokakyo Station.

History and Local Charm

Komyo-ji Temple is the head temple of the Seizan branch of Jodo-shu Buddhism. It originated in 1198 when Kumagai Rensei (Kumagai Jiro Naozane), who had become a disciple of Honen, built a hall in the village of Ao, the site chosen by Honen to begin preaching the teachings of the Nembutsu. Later, it received an imperial decree naming it the "Jodomon Kongenchi" (the birthplace of the Nembutsu).

Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane. Nagaoka holds deep ties to Michizane, who often visited here during his lifetime with Ariwara no Narihira and others to enjoy poetry, song, and music. When he was demoted and exiled to Dazaifu, he stopped here to bid a reluctant farewell. In 1638 (Kan'ei 15), Prince Toshitada (Prince Hachijo-no-miya Toshitada) built Hachijogaike Pond.

Shoryuji Castle Park was developed on the former grounds of Shoryuji Castle. In 1571 (Genki 2), Hosokawa Fujitaka renovated this castle under orders from Oda Nobunaga. In 1578 (Tensho 6), Akechi Mitsuhide's daughter, Tama (later Hosokawa Gracia), married Fujitaka's eldest son, Tadaoki, and their wedding was held at this castle. In 1582 (Tensho 10), Mitsuhide, defeated at the Battle of Yamazaki, retreated to this castle and spent his final night here.

Key Highlights

• ​Komyo-ji Temple​​: Branching to the left after entering the Somon gate, the "Momiji Sando" (maple approach) has about 250 maple trees planted along an approximately 200-meter path, forming a beautiful brocade tunnel during the foliage season. Eight structures, including the main Mie-do Hall whose framework was completed in 1753 (Horeki 3), are designated national Important Cultural Properties. In front of the Shaka-do Hall lies the "Shingyotei," a dry landscape rock garden with 18 large and small rocks set on white sand.
• ​Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine​​: The Nakazutsumi bank dividing Hachijogaike Pond serves as the approach; its 100 Kirishima azalea shrubs are at their best from mid-April to early May. From the cypress boardwalk over the water, you can take in the shrine grounds centered on the pond. Along the approach around Benten-ike Pond is the "Kinkeien" autumn foliage garden.
• ​Shoryuji Castle Park​​: At the North Gate, from which Mitsuhide is said to have escaped, the stone walls and gate foundation stones from that time still remain. From atop the earthen embankments where the castle keep is thought to have stood, there is an expansive view of Mt. Tennozan, and statues of Tadaoki and Gracia stand in the park. On the second floor of the castle-style administrative building, videos and panels trace the lives of Hosokawa Fujitaka, Tadaoki, Hosokawa Gracia, and Akechi Mitsuhide.

Recommended Route and Duration

The estimated time required is about 4 hours, including visits. From either the West Exit of JR Nagaokakyo Station or Hankyu Nagaoka-tenjin Station, take a Hankyu Bus and get off at "Asahigaoka Home-mae." There is no parking lot at Komyo-ji Temple, and parking is strictly prohibited throughout the surrounding area, so please use public transportation. The area is extremely crowded during the autumn foliage season.

From Komyo-ji Temple to Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine, it is about 2 kilometers in a straight line to the south-southeast. For the return trip, take the bus back to Hankyu Nagaoka-tenjin Station, and from the West Exit walk westward for about 10 minutes to reach Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine. From the front grand torii gate (Otorii) to the main sanctuary (Honden), there are stairs and it takes about 5 minutes on foot.

From Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine to Shoryuji Castle Park, it is about 1.4 kilometers in a straight line to the east-southeast. From the East Exit of Hankyu Nagaoka-tenjin Station, walk southeast for about 20 minutes. From the park to the East Exit of JR Nagaokakyo Station, it is about a 10-minute walk north. In commemoration of the park's establishment, the Nagaokakyo Gracia Festival is held annually on the second Sunday of November, re-creating the bridal procession of Tama.

Experience Summary

Stroll along the brocade maple approach at the Nembutsu temple tied to Honen, admire the pond views at the Nagaoka shrine where Michizane lingered in farewell, and visit the castle grounds where Mitsuhide spent his last night. This full-day itinerary traverses Nagaokakyo City from west to east, connecting famous autumn foliage spots with the history of the Warring States period.