Returning to Arashiyama by Torokko Train and Hozugawa River Boat Ride

Ride the Torokko train from Saga along the Hozu River ravine up to Kameoka, and take the Hozugawa River Boat Ride back down the same gorge to Arashiyama. This course lets you enjoy two different perspectives: first viewing the gorge from the train window, and then seeing it up close from the river on the way back.

History and Local Charm

Hozukyo Gorge, the ravine along the Hozu River, stretches from near the Hozu Bridge in Kameoka City to Togetsukyo Bridge in Arashiyama, and is considered one of Kyoto's premier gorges. River transport on the Hozu River has an ancient history; timber from Tamba was already being carried to Kyoto by raft back when the capital was in Nagaoka-kyo. In 1606, Kyoto merchant tycoon Suminokura Ryoi excavated the rapids of the gorge, allowing rice, barley, firewood, and charcoal to be transported by boat. In the same year, Ryoi also dredged the Oi River in Arashiyama and built Togetsukyo Bridge at its current location.

With the opening of the railway in 1899, rafts and cargo boats eventually vanished, but around 1895, river rides began carrying tourists on sightseeing boats. Later, to make tourist use of tracks left disused when the JR San'in Line was double-tracked, the Sagano Scenic Railway opened the Sagano Romantic Train in 1991. The river and railway that once carried goods are now boats and trains used for enjoying the scenic gorge.

Main Highlights

• ​Torokko Saga Station​​: The starting station, recognized by its brick-style building, sits right next to Saga-Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line. The annexed 19th Century Hall houses real steam locomotives such as the D51. A large railway diorama recreating Kyoto's famous sights is also located inside the station. The train runs 7.3 kilometers to Torokko Kameoka Station in about 25 minutes, passing through 8 tunnels while looking down at the Hozu River below.
• ​Hozugawa River Boat Ride​​: Descend the roughly 16-kilometer mountain stream from Kameoka to Arashiyama on a boat typically maneuvered by three boatmen using bamboo poles, a rudder, and oars. Rocks named after their shapes appear one after another, such as Eboshi Rock and Lion Rock, and indentations made by boatmen bracing their poles remain in the stone. As the Arashiyama terminus approaches, Daihikaku Senko-ji Temple, built by Ryoi to pray for the souls of those who died during the excavation work, comes into view on the mountainside to the right.
• ​Togetsukyo Bridge​​: Spanning the Oi River at the foot of Arashiyama, this bridge measures 155 meters in length. It is said to have received its name from words spoken by Retired Emperor Kameyama as he watched the moon moving across the sky above the bridge, and the bridge forms a single scenic view together with Arashiyama behind it. The current bridge was completed in 1934.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The recommended total time is about 5 hours. Torokko Saga Station is next to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station and about a 5-minute walk from Randen-Saga Station on the Randen line. All seats on the Sagano Romantic Train are reserved. It gets crowded during the cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons, so it is safer to secure your tickets early. A ticket counter for the Hozugawa River Boat Ride is also located inside the station.

Torokko Kameoka Station is located about 5 minutes by car from the boat boarding area. Buses heading to the boarding area and "Kyo-basha" sightseeing horse-drawn carriages depart from near the station, so it is best to decide your transfer method in advance. The boat ride takes approximately 100 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the river's water level. On rainy days, the boats operate with awnings stretched over them, but operations are suspended during high water levels or severe weather. Water may splash onto the boat, so having a raincoat provides peace of mind.

The boat arrives at the landing area in Arashiyama. It is about a 15- to 20-minute walk from the landing area to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. Conclude your trip by crossing Togetsukyo Bridge to admire the scenery of Arashiyama before heading home.

The Sagano Romantic Train usually runs from March 1 to December 29 and is suspended in January and February. The Hozugawa River Boat Ride operates on a winter schedule from the second Monday of December through March 9; however, because the winter boats are unheated, please dress warmly. Even when the Sagano Romantic Train is fully booked, you can reach the boat boarding area by JR train or bus. The boarding area is within walking distance of JR Kameoka Station, so taking the JR train to Kameoka Station is advisable in January and February when the Sagano Romantic Train is not operating.

Summary of the Experience

Look down at the flow of the Hozu River from the train window, then gaze up at the gorge from the water below. Conclude your day's journey by descending the gorge cleared by Suminokura Ryoi and crossing Togetsukyo Bridge, which still spans the river where Ryoi originally built it.