Onomichi's Port and Historic Temples: From Hondori to Jodo-ji Temple

This walking route takes you from the port of Onomichi to historic temples extending east of the station. Beginning at ONOMICHI U2 near JR Onomichi Station, the route passes through Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street running eastward from the station front, heads up to Saikoku-ji Temple on the hillside, and finally visits Jodo-ji Temple to the east.

History and Local Charm

Onomichi is a port town facing the Onomichi Channel. During the Edo period, Saigoku Kaido—which was the early modern Sanyo Road—ran through the town, and today's Hondori shopping street corresponds to that route. Many merchant houses lined the street, which was also home to the Onomichi Town Magistrate's Office established by the Hiroshima Domain and the honjin inn where dignitaries stayed.

Historic temples dot the foot of the mountains behind the town. Saikoku-ji Temple, said to have been founded by Gyoki in the Nara period, and Jodo-ji Temple, said to have been founded by Prince Shotoku, are both counted, along with Senko-ji Temple and others, among the temples of the "Onomichi Seven Temples Pilgrimage." Saikoku-ji Temple preserves structures designated as National Important Cultural Properties, while Jodo-ji Temple preserves buildings designated as National Treasures. Walking from the new facility that repurposed port warehouses through the historic arcade and on to the ancient temples, you can trace the past and present of Onomichi in one continuous journey.

Key Highlights

• ​ONOMICHI U2​​: A commercial complex reborn in March 2014 by renovating "Prefectural Shed Warehouse No. 2," a maritime shipping warehouse built in 1943. Designed with small buildings lined up inside a large warehouse, it brings together a hotel, restaurant, cafe, bakery, shops, and a specialized bicycle store. Located in Onomichi, the Honshu-side starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, it also serves as a base for cyclists.
• ​Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street​​: A single continuous street of about 1.2 kilometers consisting of five shopping streets: Fumiko-dori Street, Naka Shopping Street, Honmachi Center Street, E-no-machi Street, and Onomichi-dori. In Honmachi Center Street is the otabisho (temporary resting station) of Ikkyu Shrine, displaying masks of the three demon deities from the Betcha Festival. Midway along Hondori remains a key-shaped bent street layout known locally as "magari."
• ​Saikoku-ji Temple​​: A head temple (daihonzan) of the Daigo branch of Shingon Buddhism, said to have been founded by Gyoki during the Tenpyo era. It is famous for the giant straw sandals (o-waraji) exceeding 2 meters in length hung at the Niomon gate. Climbing the stone steps reveals the Kondo (main hall) built in 1386 and a three-story pagoda said to have been donated by Ashikaga Yoshinori, both of which are National Important Cultural Properties.
• ​Jodo-ji Temple​​: A temple said to have been founded by Prince Shotoku in 616 (the 24th year of Empress Suiko's reign). The main hall built in 1327 and the tahoto pagoda built subsequently are both National Treasures, while the Sanmon gate, Amida-do hall, and Rotekian teahouse are Important Cultural Properties, and the garden facing the hojo (abbot's quarters) is a national Place of Scenic Beauty. Ashikaga Takauji is said to have prayed for victory in battle here in 1336, and it is also known as the "Temple of National Treasures."

Suggested Route & Time Required

The estimated time required is approximately 4 hours. ONOMICHI U2 is about a 5-minute walk from JR Onomichi Station. After viewing the Onomichi Channel and Mukaishima Island across the water from the seaside deck, enter the Hondori shopping street using the statue of Hayashi Fumiko in front of the station as a landmark, and walk east. Proceed while looking for sights along the street such as Tsuchido Elementary School, which Fumiko attended, the former site of the Magistrate's Office, and the otabisho of Ikkyu Shrine. At the eastern end of the shopping street sits Soraiken, the tea garden of the wealthy Hashimoto merchant family.

Saikoku-ji Temple is located on the hillside about 1.1 kilometers north-northeast from around the Naka Shopping Street section of Hondori. Stone steps lead from the Niomon gate to the Kondo and the three-story pagoda, so please wear comfortable walking shoes. From Saikoku-ji Temple to Jodo-ji Temple, it is about 800 meters east-southeast, taking roughly 15 minutes on foot.

From Jodo-ji Temple to JR Onomichi Station, it takes about 7 minutes by bus from the "Jodoji-shita" bus stop, or about 25 minutes on foot. If you are tired from walking, taking the bus on the way back is convenient.

Experience Summary

A new complex utilizing port warehouses, an old highway shopping street, and historic temples linked to Gyoki and Prince Shotoku. Walking eastward from the station, you will travel gradually back in time through Onomichi's eras. Spend half a day enjoying both the present and past of this port town.