Totsukawa Village: From Tanize Suspension Bridge to Totsukawa Onsen and Hatenashi Village (by Car)

Drive south through Totsukawa Village, located at the southernmost tip of Nara Prefecture. Cross the 297-meter-long Tanize Suspension Bridge, and soak in 100% free-flowing hot spring waters at Totsukawa Onsen on the shores of Futatsuno Dam. This course takes you on a hike along the Kumano Pilgrimage Route Kohechi to climb up to Hatenashi Village, also known as the "Village in the Sky." The Tanize Suspension Bridge is fully closed for construction work from November 9, 2026, until the end of March 2027 (scheduled), and you cannot cross it or visit it for sightseeing.

History and Regional Appeal

Totsukawa Village is situated at the southernmost tip of Nara Prefecture, bordered by Wakayama Prefecture to the west and Mie Prefecture to the east. Covering an area of 672.38 square kilometers, it is the largest village in Japan. The Kohechi and Omine Okugake-michi routes of the World Heritage site "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range" pass through the village. All hot spring baths in the village are 100% free-flowing from the source.

The name Totsukawa appears as "Tootsukawa" in the Koyasan Documents of 1142, reflecting the meaning of being far from capitals and ports. During the Jinshin War of 672, the people of Totsukawa are said to have joined Emperor Tenmu's uprising, achieved great merits, and were granted tax exemptions. The village also has deep ties to the Southern Court, and it is said that Prince Morinaga, son of Emperor Go-Daigo, once took refuge here. In 1871 (Meiji 4), Totsukawa's rural samurai were elevated to the rank of shizoku (former samurai class) in recognition of their service guarding Kyoto Imperial Palace during the late Edo period and their contributions in the Boshin War.

In August 1889 (Meiji 22), a massive flood caused catastrophic damage, leaving 168 dead and 426 homes completely destroyed or washed away. Struggling to rebuild their livelihoods, 2,489 people from 600 households migrated to Hokkaido and established the town of Shintotsukawa. Today, Shintotsukawa still refers to Totsukawa Village as its "mother village," and exchanges between them continue. In June of the year following the flood, six villages merged to form the current Totsukawa Village.

Key Highlights

• ​Tanize Suspension Bridge​​: Spanning the Totsukawa River to connect Uenoji in Totsukawa Village with the opposite settlement of Tanize, this suspension bridge measures 297 meters in length and 54 meters in height. Built in 1954 with funds pooled by local residents alongside local government funding, it remains an essential path for daily commuting and school. It sways with every step on the wooden planks, while the clear Kumano River (Totsukawa) flows below.
• ​Totsukawa Onsen​​: A hot spring area situated on the shores of Futatsuno Dam, hosting the village's largest concentration of inns and shops. In 2004, Totsukawa Village became the first municipality in Japan to declare itself a "100% Free-Flowing Hot Spring" village. At the public bathhouse Iori-no-Yu, day visitors can enjoy a bath while admiring the lake view opening up just outside.
• ​Hatenashi Village​​: A settlement halfway up the Hatenashi Pass, through which passes the Kumano Pilgrimage Route Kohechi linking Koyasan and Kumano Hongu. The Kumano Kodo path runs right past the front yards of several private homes, revealing a quintessential rural landscape of rice paddies and farm plots surrounded by mountains. Selected among the 100 Best Rural Communities in Japan and as a Nara Prefecture Scenic Asset, it continues to be inhabited by local residents today.

Recommended Route and Travel Time

The recommended duration is about 6 hours; staying overnight at Totsukawa Onsen allows for a more relaxed itinerary. There are no train lines running within Totsukawa Village.

By car, drive south from Gojo City on Route 168 for about 1 hour to reach the parking area of the Tanize Suspension Bridge. From the Gojo Interchange on the Keinawa Expressway, taking Route 168 south takes about 90 minutes to Tosenji Onsen, where the Totsukawa Village Office is located, and another 15 minutes further to Totsukawa Onsen. In winter, roads around Tentsuji Pass in Oto-cho, Gojo City (north of the village) can freeze or accumulate snow, so winter tires provide peace of mind.

Start by crossing the Tanize Suspension Bridge. However, from November 9, 2026, until the end of March 2027 (scheduled), the bridge is fully closed for improvement work in the surrounding area, and you cannot cross it or visit it for sightseeing. Part of the village road next to the village-run parking lot in Uenoji is also closed. A village-run parking lot is available on the Uenoji side of the bridge. As the bridge is a path used by local residents in their daily lives, please refrain from making loud noise early in the morning or late at night. When crowded, follow the guidance of the security staff.

Continuing further south from Tanize Suspension Bridge on Route 168 brings you to Totsukawa Onsen. At the community exchange center "Ikora," located a 2-minute walk from Totsukawa Onsen Bus Terminal, you will find a spot for drinking the hot spring water and a footbath.

To reach Hatenashi Village, hike up on foot from Totsukawa Onsen. According to the village's Kohechi guide, it takes about 20 minutes from Totsukawa Onsen to the Hatenashi Pass trailhead, and from there about 40 minutes to Hatenashi Village. A steep climb continues from the trailhead. Village information notes that the "Hatenashi Walk" starting from the trailhead takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes and is suitable for experienced hikers. Beyond the village, the mountain trail continues all the way to Yagio in Wakayama Prefecture with no other way down the mountain along the way, so please return the way you came from the village. Inside the settlement, please keep your voice down and do not enter private premises or farm fields.

If traveling without a car, take the Nara Kotsu Yagi-Shingu Line bus, which runs between Kintetsu Yamato-Yagi Station and JR Shingu Station in about 6 and a half hours. It is Japan's longest local bus route. The bus makes an approximate 20-minute rest stop at the Uenoji bus stop near Tanize Suspension Bridge. According to village information, the ride from Yamato-Yagi Station to Totsukawa Onsen takes about 4 hours and 20 minutes, with 3 buses operating per day.

Experience Summary

Take a walk in midair over the Totsukawa River, stepping forward plank by swaying plank underfoot. Warm your body in 100% free-flowing hot spring waters, and climb the ancient stone-paved paths once trodden by travelers heading for Kumano Hongu to gaze across the fields of the mountain village and the surrounding mountains. This journey also touches upon the history of a village that overcame a great flood and pooled its own funds to build a bridge for daily life.