Onomichi's Slopes: Senko-ji Temple and Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley

This walking route takes you from the top to the bottom of Mt. Senkoji, which rises behind the town of Onomichi. After riding the Mt. Senkoji Ropeway up to Senko-ji Park at the summit and stopping by the Onomichi City Museum of Art, walk down the Path of Literature to Senko-ji Temple. Continue down the slopes and stone steps to view the Tennei-ji Temple Three-storied Pagoda, pass through Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley lined with Fortune Stone Cats (fukuishi-neko), and return to the foot of the mountain.

History and Local Charm

The summit area of Mt. Senkoji forms Senko-ji Park, which was established during the Meiji period. From atop the mountain, you can look out over the townscape along the Onomichi Channel, Mukaishima Island across the water, and the islands of the Shimanami Kaido. On the mountainside stands Senko-ji Temple, said to have been founded at the beginning of the Heian period by Kobo Daishi, while on the southern slope rises the Tennei-ji Temple Three-storied Pagoda, built during the Muromachi period.

Houses line the mountain slope, with narrow alleys and stone steps weaving between them. Take the ropeway up to enjoy the scenery, then retrace the slopes on foot on your way down. The joy of walking this town lies in how the view of the Onomichi Channel changes with every step you descend.

Major Highlights

• ​Senko-ji Park​​: A park selected as one of "Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots" and "Japan's Top 100 Night Views." At the summit observation deck "PEAK," which newly opened in March 2022, you can enjoy shifting views as you walk along its slender 63-meter deck. Leading from the summit toward Senko-ji Temple is the "Path of Literature," lined with monuments inscribed with the words of authors and poets connected to Onomichi.
• ​Onomichi City Museum of Art​​: An art museum located within Senko-ji Park, given a new form in 2003 (Heisei 15) through the design of architect Ando Tadao. Its collection centers on works by Western-style painter Kobayashi Wasaku, an honorary citizen of Onomichi City.
• ​Senko-ji Temple​​: A Shingon sect Buddhist temple said to have been founded in 806 (Daido 1) by Kobo Daishi. Standing on the stage of the vermilion main hall, called the "Akado" (Red Hall), the bustling Onomichi Channel filled with passing ships spreads out before your eyes. The bell of the bell tower, known as the "Bell of Time," has been selected as one of the "100 Soundscapes of Japan."
• ​Tennei-ji Temple Three-storied Pagoda​​: A pagoda designated as a national Important Cultural Property, built in 1388 (Kakei 2). It was originally a five-storied pagoda and took its present three-storied form in 1692 (Genroku 5) during the Edo period. The view overlooking the Onomichi Channel beyond the pagoda is celebrated as a quintessential Onomichi vista.
• ​Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley​​: A narrow alley of about 200 meters running from near the Tennei-ji Temple Three-storied Pagoda toward Ushitora-jinja Shrine. It came to be called by this name after the artist Sonoyama Shunji began placing "Fortune Stone Cats"—round stones painted with cats—here in 1998.

Recommended Route and Required Time

The estimated time required is about 4 hours. From JR Onomichi Station, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to the Sanroku (lower) Station of the Mt. Senkoji Ropeway. The ropeway reaches the summit in about 3 minutes. After enjoying the view from the observation deck "PEAK," which connects directly to the summit station, stop by the adjacent Onomichi City Museum of Art.

Walking down the Path of Literature from the museum brings you to Senko-ji Temple in about 10 minutes. After your visit, head down the slope and stone steps to the Tennei-ji Temple Three-storied Pagoda, located about 100 meters to the east. Enter Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley right next to the pagoda and descend toward Ushitora-jinja Shrine while looking for Fortune Stone Cats. From Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley, it is about a 3-minute walk to the ropeway's Sanroku Station, from where you can head straight back to Onomichi Station.

Because of the continuous slopes and stone steps, please wear comfortable walking shoes. Neko-no-Hosomichi Alley is an active residential area where local residents live. Please walk quietly, and if you encounter cats, do not chase or touch them; watch them gently from a slight distance. You can also enjoy cherry blossoms in spring, as well as the view of the three-storied pagoda and the Onomichi Channel at dusk.

Experience Summary

The expansive vista from the mountaintop, the vermilion main hall's stage, the Muromachi-period pagoda, and the Fortune Stone Cats in the alley. Take half a day to savor the shifting faces of Onomichi as you wind your way down the slopes.