Mori Motonari's Koriyama Castle Ruins and the Village of Kagura (By Car)
Akitakata, Hiroshima
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This is a driving tour around Akitakata City. In the morning, you will walk from a museum at the foot of the mountain to visit the Yoshida-Koriyama Castle ruins, a Sengoku period mountain castle that served as the base of Mori Motonari. In the afternoon, you will move to Kagura Monzen Tojimura in Midori-cho to the northwest to enjoy kagura theatrical dances and hot springs.
History and Regional Charm
Yoshida in Akitakata City was the stronghold of the Mori clan during the Sengoku period. Yoshida-Koriyama Castle is a mountain castle representing the Sengoku era; Motonari left this castle when he was 4 years old and returned at age 27 when he succeeded the main family. In the 1540 Battle of Koriyama, he barricaded himself in this castle to fight against the massive army of the Amago clan that invaded Aki. It remained the center of the Mori clan until 1591, when Mori Terumoto built a new castle in Hiroshima and moved there.
Another attraction is kagura. The kagura of Akitakata is believed to have been transmitted to this region during the Edo period from the Izumo-style kagura of Shimane Prefecture via Iwami Kagura. Characterized by strong theatrical elements and an accessible, openhearted atmosphere, it features both "Kyu-mai" (old dance), which has roughly been handed down from before the Pacific War, and "Shin-mai" (new dance), created after the war with fast tempos and gorgeous costumes. Sengoku castle ruins and kagura passed down to this day: this course allows you to experience both the past and present of Akitakata in one day.
Key Highlights
- Yoshida-Koriyama Castle: The castle grounds extend approximately 1.1 kilometers east to west and 0.9 kilometers north to south, with more than 300 kuruwa (enclosure) remains spreading around the honmaru (main bailey) at the mountain summit. The summit stands at an elevation of 390 meters, with a height of 190 meters from the base. The castle site is designated as a National Historic Site as the "Koriyama Castle Ruins" and is counted among Japan's Top 100 Castles. The castle area also contains Motonari's grave with the Hyakuman Isshin monument, the monument to the Lesson of the Three Arrows, and Takamoto's grave.
- Kagura Monzen Tojimura: A village built with hot springs, dining, and lodging facilities after hot spring water accidentally bubbled up in 1995 while building Kagura Dome, a facility dedicated to viewing kagura. You can stroll through the village with its nostalgic retro atmosphere while peeking into Japanese confectionery and traditional candy shops. The Kagura Museum displays actual costumes and masks used in kagura.
- Kagura Dome and Iwatoya Hot Spring: At Kagura Dome, which boasts the spaciousness of a 1,000-tatami mat area, you can enjoy vibrant dances during weekend regular performances and kagura competitions. At the Kamukuraza theater inside the Kagura Museum, you can watch evening kagura on weekend nights. After enjoying the dance, soothe the fatigue of the day at Iwatoya, a natural radon hot spring with a legend that it was associated with the Ama-no-Iwato myth.
Recommended Route and Travel Time
The estimated time required is about 6 hours. Kagura performances are mainly held on weekends, so it is recommended to visit on a weekend if you want to watch kagura.
Start in the morning from the Akitakata City History and Folklore Museum at the base of the Koriyama Castle Ruins. It is about 15 minutes from Takata Interchange on the Chugoku Expressway, or about 60 minutes from Hiroshima Interchange on the Sanyo Expressway. Because the museum introduces the Mori clan and the Koriyama Castle Ruins, grasping the overall picture of the castle first will make the remains of the enclosures in the mountain much easier to understand. Climbing the mountain trail to the summit requires comfortable walking shoes and drinks. Setting aside about half a day to walk the Koriyama Castle Ruins is recommended.
In the afternoon, drive about 9 kilometers northwest to Kagura Monzen Tojimura. Stroll through the village, enjoy a meal such as gibier dishes using wild boar or deer meat, or the specialty Kagura Goshiki Noodles (Yasha udon), and wait for the kagura performance. Kagura is regarded as a relaxed performing art where viewers can eat and drink in the audience without being reprimanded. Explanations of the programs are provided, so first-timers can easily enjoy it. Checking the schedule on the Tojimura information before departing ensures a smooth trip.
Summary of the Experience
Climb on foot from the base to the summit of the mountain castle where Mori Motonari based himself, standing upon the stage of Sengoku history. In the afternoon, visit the village of kagura to be captivated by dazzling costumes and swift dances, then unwind in the hot springs. A day unique to Akitakata, where you can savor history, traditional performing arts, and hot springs all at once.