Miyoshi: From the Sea of Fog to the Yokai Museum (By Car)
Miyoshi, Hiroshima
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This is a driving course to explore the highlights of Miyoshi City. In the early morning, take in the sea of fog from the Mt. Takatani Observation Deck, visit the Yumoto Koichi Memorial Japan Yokai Museum in Miyoshi-machi—the setting of a yokai (supernatural monster) tale—and then visit the Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum and Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery located diagonally across from it.
History and Regional Charm
In the Miyoshi Basin, three rivers—the Gonokawa River, Saijo River, and Basen River—converge in the center of the city. From autumn to spring, river fog rises and lingers within the basin, creating a "sea of fog" where only the mountain peaks appear to float like islands.
Miyoshi is also the setting of the Edo-period yokai tale "Ino Mononokeroku." It tells the story of Ino Budayu, an actual feudal retainer of the Hiroshima Domain in Miyoshi, who endured a succession of yokai and strange apparitions over 30 days during his boyhood. From the Edo period to the present day, it has served as the subject for picture books, picture scrolls, manga, and more.
Furthermore, Miyoshi is the hometown of Japanese-style painter Okuda Genso and is also known as a grape-producing region, particularly for Pione grapes. In a single day, you can experience the nature and culture of Miyoshi, from the morning sea of fog and tales of yokai to Japanese-style paintings, dolls, and wine.
Key Highlights
- Mt. Takatani Observation Deck: Located near the summit of Mt. Takatani, which overlooks the urban area of Miyoshi, this observation deck sits at an elevation of approximately 490 meters. The sea of fog is most likely to appear early in the morning on days that are clear, with light wind and a large temperature difference between day and night. As the sun rises, the fog turns madder red and golden hues.
- Yumoto Koichi Memorial Japan Yokai Museum: Created after approximately 5,000 yokai-related materials collected by folklorist and yokai researcher Yumoto Koichi were donated to Miyoshi City, this museum is fondly known by the nickname "Miyoshi Mononoke Museum." It features exhibits centered on books and picture scrolls that introduce the world of Ino Mononokeroku, as well as the digital art attraction "teamLab Yokai Park," which can be enjoyed by both children and adults.
- Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum: An art museum dedicated to the husband-and-wife artists, Japanese-style painter Okuda Genso and doll artist Okuda Sayume. Visitors can compare Genso's landscapes depicting the moon and sun with Sayume's large-scale doll creations. The red-based coloring of Genso's works is called "Genso Red," and directly in front of the lobby spreads a basin of water that reflects the sky.
- Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery: A sightseeing-oriented winery opened in 1994 (Heisei 6). Anyone is free to visit the wine factory viewing section and the underground wine storage cellar. Along with the "TOMOÉ" series wines made from grapes grown in Miyoshi, soft-serve ice cream made with Pione grape juice is popular at the café.
Recommended Itinerary and Travel Time
The estimated time required is about 6 hours. The sea of fog can be seen in the early mornings from autumn to early spring. Arriving at the Mt. Takatani Observation Deck before sunrise allows you to watch the fog take on color from the very beginning. You can drive near the observation deck, and parking is available. It is about a 15-minute drive from Miyoshi Station. On foggy mornings, visibility is poor even on mountain roads, so drive with great care and dress warmly to prepare for the cold temperatures atop the mountain.
Once the fog clears and the townscape of Miyoshi appears, drive down the mountain toward the Yumoto Koichi Memorial Japan Yokai Museum, located about 2.9 kilometers in a straight line to the northeast. Because viewing the sea of fog starts early in the morning, you can relax over breakfast while waiting for the museum to open. Near the museum, the stone-paved Miyoshi Hondori Shopping Street stretches out, dotted with sites associated with Ino Mononokeroku. You can also enjoy a stroll through Miyoshi-machi together with a visit to the Tsujimura Jusaburo Doll Museum facing the street.
From the museum, head toward the Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum, approximately 4.8 kilometers in a straight line to the southeast. After viewing the works at the museum, move to Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery diagonally across the street to conclude your day by touring the wine factory or visiting the café. Drivers should refrain from wine tasting and enjoy the flavors of Miyoshi with items like the Pione soft-serve ice cream instead. On full-moon days, the museum extends its opening hours, allowing visitors to view the scenery of the representative work "Waiting for the Moon (Taigetsu)" from the lobby. On such days, it is also a good option to visit the winery first and conclude at the art museum.
Experience Summary
The morning sea of fog filling the basin, yokai gathered in a town of legends, Japanese-style paintings and dolls depicting the moon, and a winery in grape country. Take a full day to savor both nature and culture by car in the town of Miyoshi, where three rivers converge.