To Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine by Hankai Tramway: Along Kumano Kaido from Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine

This course takes you on the Hankai Tramway from Tennoji-ekimae to visit Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine and Abe Oji-jinja Shrine along Kumano Kaido, and then continues on the tram to Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine.

History and Regional Appeal

The Kumano Pilgrimage was at its peak from the Heian period to around the Muromachi period. Travelers coming down from Kyoto by boat reportedly landed near the Hachikenya funatsukiba (boat landing) and began walking toward Kumano. That path was Kumano Kaido, along which oji shrines were established for rest and remote prayer. Located midway between Shitenno-ji Temple and Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine, Abe Oji-jinja Shrine became an oji shrine of Kumano, and today it is considered the only remaining oji shrine in Osaka Prefecture. In Fujiwara Teika's "Gotobain Kumano Gokoki," an entry records a visit to "Abeno Oji" in Kennin 1 (1201). Just north of it, Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine lies along Kumano Kaido, a little over 7 kilometers from the Hachikenya funatsukiba, and was visited by many worshipers during the Edo period. You can follow this route on the Hankai Tramway, Osaka's only vintage streetcar (chin-chin densha).

Key Highlights

• ​Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine​​: A shrine standing on the ground said to be the birthplace of Abe no Seimei, an Onmyoji (diviner) of the Heian period. According to shrine tradition, it was founded in Kanko 4 (1007), two years after Seimei's death. Within the grounds are a monument marking Seimei's birthplace, the remains of his first bath, a bronze statue of Seimei erected in 2005 on the 1,000th anniversary of his death, and a statue of a fox said to depict Kuzunoha, the white fox believed to be Seimei's mother, as she flew in.
• ​Abe Oji-jinja Shrine​​: A shrine facing the former Kumano Kaido; Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine is a subordinate shrine (massha) of this shrine. On the grounds, giant camphor trees aged four to five hundred years spread their branches. It is revered for blessings such as warding off evil, ensuring good health, and healing illnesses.
• ​Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine​​: The head shrine of approximately 2,300 Sumiyoshi shrines nationwide, revered as a guardian deity of navigation. All four main hall buildings, constructed in the "Sumiyoshi-zukuri" style, are National Treasures, and each faces west toward Osaka Bay. Most of the approximately 600 stone lanterns lined up in the precinct were dedicated by people involved in maritime shipping.

Recommended Route and Duration

The approximate time required is about 4 hours. From Tennoji-ekimae, take the Uemachi Line of the Hankai Tramway. The tram moves from the busy thoroughfare of Abenosuji into narrow tracks that skim the eaves of residential houses. Get off at Higashi-Tengachaya and walk southeast for about 5 minutes to reach Abe no Seimei-jinja Shrine. After also praying at Abe Oji-jinja Shrine about 50 meters south, look out over the former Kumano Kaido passing in front of the shrine. Afterward, return to Higashi-Tengachaya and take the Hankai Tramway again. Getting off at Sumiyoshi-toriimae puts you right in front of Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine. Riding straight through from Tennoji-ekimae to Sumiyoshi-toriimae takes about 16 minutes. For a formal visit to Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine, cross the Sorihashi (arched bridge) spanning the sacred pond, purify yourself at the temizuya (water ablution pavilion), and worship at the four main sanctuaries. On the way back, in addition to the Hankai Tramway, you can use Sumiyoshitaisha Station on the Nankai Main Line, a 3-minute walk to the west.

Summary of the Experience

Riding the leisurely streetcar through nostalgic townscapes, visit a shrine carrying legends of an Onmyoji, an oji shrine where Kumano pilgrims stopped, and Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine, which enshrines the guardian deity of maritime navigation. It is a half-day trip following the path once walked by ancient travelers right alongside the everyday life of the people of Osaka.